Hello.
i own Hasselblad 53CXi,
i deside to change the focus screen to Acute Matte Split Prism screen.
i saw a lots of focusing screen and many different types of focusing screens.
is someone can explain or refer me to any web site for learn and compare ?
Thanks in advance.
Yaacov.
Note, my comments added to this excellent list are italic:
Hasselblad Focusing screens
Note that no screen has any ID other than the "D" cut out on the Acute Matte D versions so sellers with a screen in a box with little knowledge rely on the box which is usually wrong as owners tended to buy a new screen and store the old one in the box= error.
List courtesy of member:
itsdoable
Pre_Acute-Matte
Plain ----------------------------------------- 42161
Centre microprism ---------------------- 42234
Centre split image + microprism -- 42218
center microprism with grid --------- 42250
center split image ---------------------- 42188
center split image for C? ------------ 42196 *
for 500C, 500EL
center split image 1 ------------------- 42198
Bright-Matte (plain) -------------------- 42226 (just pre Acute-Matte)*
Checked screen (Grid) --------------- 42269
* My addition note: this used fibre optics which are prone to fail leading to black spots like a dead pixel on the screen, they are quite rare and expensive, not because they are good but because they are rare.
Acute-Matte
Original Acute Matte ( Introduced in 1989):
Acute Matte plain ------------------------------ 42165 ( Introduced in 1989 )
Acute Matte with split and grids code - 42170 ( 1991 to 1996 )
Acute Matte TCC Code --------------------- 42167
Acute Matte 203 Code ---------------------- 42208
The "D" versions 1996 and 1997:
Acute Matte Standard D ----------------------------------------------------------- 42204
*centre cross mark
Acute Matte D 203 ------------------------------------------------------------------- 42203 ( earlier code 42210 )
* Specific marks for the metering area: a ring of fine dots indicating the central weighted exposure zone.
Acute Matte D 205 ------------------------------------------------------------------- 42167 ( earlier code 42213 ) *
as above plus a 6mm ring for the spot metering system
Acute Matte D microprism/split image ---------------------------------------- 42215
Acute Matte D split w/ Grid lines ------------------------------------------------ 42217
Acute Matte D w/ metering circle for pme90 prism ----------------------- 42207
Acute Matte D w/ grid and split image with metering circle for 203 - 42219
Acute Matte D w/ microprism/split image with CFV crop --------------- 42264 *
crop marks for the digital back rare and expensive
I
think there was a plain class screen 42200
H-3042264 Focusing Screen for CFV-50c Digital Back (has H designation but is for V series with the CMOS back showing the crop horizontal and vertical)
Other makers such as Brightscreen and Maxwell - Hi-Lux, screens that fit the Hasselblad as well, there are numerous Hong Kong/Chinese suppliers with variable reports of quality.
Now let's move on to why you want to change, is it because you want a focussing aid like a split screen or just because you want a brighter screen. If the latter you should note that original Hasselblad screens were "dim" but had a high contrast. The first series Acute Matte screens were much brighter but were heavily criticised for being hard to focus by pro photographers and the second release, the D series was re-designed by Minolta to address the issue, how far that succeeded is open to debate. The increase in brightness is accompanied by a corresponding decrease in contrast and it is the contrast by which focus is achieved if you are using the screen, often called "the pop" and not a focussing aid on the screen, brightness aids composition. The general view is always "I want a bright screen" but be careful what you wish for.
I do think, because I use one by preference, that a split screen is the way to go 42217 ( and I fully understand that focussing aids are a very individual choice) in an Acute Matte D screen. That gives the best of both worlds, brightness and accuracy. The downside, sorry, is the split screen does need careful vertical alignment of the viewing eye to work without blacking out which again it is prone to do even when lined up on longer focal lengths, 150mm and upwards, it works best with a prism or chimney finder not waist level. It is workable of course on waist level but can be frustrating.
There is no one best screen for manual focus, that's why Nikon made 23 different ones for the F3 and Hasselblad had around 8 in the catalogue at any one time, not all the above were available at the same time, varying over the years in the designs available.
