Camera purchase help: Canon vs Nikon vs Pentax Vs Olympus vs Minolta

[jnk]

I have used Leica, Nikon, Minolta Olympus and Pentax 35mm cameras (sorry only yashica ps and 120). don't waste your money on a replacement . everyone has superb cameras and lenses. yes, from shit consumer to hi-end are superb. your camera soundsalike it needs an overhaul. instead of wasting money on another camera that the same or worse issues and needs and overhaul, have your current camera fixed, it will be less expensive than paying for a new camera, wasting time effort and film on developing bad images and needing an overhaul or another broken camera. don't be internetbrainwashed into being on the gas go round. too many people keep buying just because they can, it won't change anything, a camera is just a box with a timer. seeing is more important than your box

 

[runswithsizzers]

Whatever you get - if it takes batteries - make sure batteries are available for it. Some older cameras had meters which depended on constant voltage from a battery which contained mercury, and is now banned. There are work-arounds, so these cameras can still be used - just know what you are getting into before buying a camera that was designed to use mercury batteries.

But if you are looking at cameras with PSAM exposure and or autofocus, they will be later models which take modern batteries.

 

[Paul Howell]

Not high on anyone's list the Canon Rebel, light, seems to be durable, not many issues reported over the years, and cheap. Mid level EF Canon glass seems to be plentiful and inexpensive.

 

[Bill Burk]

I was planning to try out the m42 lenses with a mount as well, that would help me own multiple bodies too by keeping the same lens set. Any disadvantage of choice?

The Pentax Spotmatic M42 family of bodies are my current favorite. It’s too bad the ES-II bodies suffer from prism foam rot and shutter switch cracks. Because their electronics are robust. Spotmatic-F is a good choice. Both are best paired with SMCT lenses that have full aperture meter engagement.

You can still use both late-series bodies with (practically) any M42 lens by using stop-down mode.

 

[beemermark]

Just buy one.

 

[MatchaCub]

As a Pentaxian I would recommend a KX.
However, if size is an issue then the smaller Pentax MX is my recommendation.
This was introduced to compete against the Olympus OM1.
A KX can be found cheaper than the more popular MX. Specs are roughly the same, but they differ in size.
The MX has a very large and bright viewfinder.
Add some reasonably priced M series lenses to go with it.

The Olympus is also a nice camera.
Check through the viewfinder to check for issues as mentioned before buying.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Buy Hasselblad and you will never look back.



As long as everyone else is pushing their personal drug camera of choice.

 

[MattKing]

In 35mm, I have been using the OM system since the late 1970s.
I've also dabbled in Canon EF system bodies and consumer lenses for the last decade or so.
I also sold OM, Canon FD, Konica and Pentax back in the 1970s and early 1980s.
The OM line remains my favourite, and I still have 4 different bodies, along with a range of lenses. I've never had any reliability issues, save for a mirror on an OM-2s that detached and which was easily serviced.
The OM-1 (various versions) was designed to use a mercury based PX-625 battery that is no longer available. There are a number of practical approaches to using modern batteries with it.
The OM-2s and early versions of the OM-4 have circuitry that goes through batteries faster than one might think ideal, but that can be dealt with by carrying backups.
The Canon EF bodies that I still have offer eye controlled auto-focus. That feature works well for me, but it doesn't work for everyone, so it is best not to make your decision based on that feature. The various models also have different battery requirements, and some of those batteries can be relatively more difficult to find and/or expensive.
In many ways, your most important consideration should be the condition of the cameras you are considering. Remember though that there is a difference between functionality and cosmetics.
My well used OM-2s with the box end for the last roll of Kodachrome I put through it in 2010.

 

[xkaes]

Stick with what you've got. Yashica lenses are great and they can be found for less money that the other brands.

If you want ASPM and non-AF, switch to the Minolta X-700, but that means getting rid of all you have and buying lenses for Minolta.

Stick with what you've got -- and join the YASHICA FORUM.

 

[ic-racer]

...

 

[Don_ih]

The only camera anyone ever needed.

 

[Chan Tran]

As a Pentaxian I would recommend a KX.
However, if size is an issue then the smaller Pentax MX is my recommendation.
This was introduced to compete against the Olympus OM1.
A KX can be found cheaper than the more popular MX. Specs are roughly the same, but they differ in size.
The MX has a very large and bright viewfinder.
Add some reasonably priced M series lenses to go with it.

The Olympus is also a nice camera.
Check through the viewfinder to check for issues as mentioned before buying.

I certainly agree with you. I still have 2 KX's. I sold the MX a number of years back. However, I think the OP is seeking for more automation like PSAM exposure modes and AF.

 

[Anupam_nc]

I certainly agree with you. I still have 2 KX's. I sold the MX a number of years back. However, I think the OP is seeking for more automation like PSAM exposure modes and AF.

I am ok without the PSAM and AF. I don't face issues with manual focus and the basic light meter exposure assist works well for me

 

[Chan Tran]

I am ok without the PSAM and AF. I don't face issues with manual focus and the basic light meter exposure assist works well for me

Well I think you're not going to do something that needs to be fast like shooting bird in flight etc.. so I would recommend a fully manual camera. The Pentax KX as well as MX. The Nikon FM. Don't buy the Pentax K1000 though because it's lesser than the KX and they tend to go for more.

 

[waynecrider]

I have used Leica, Nikon, Minolta Olympus and Pentax 35mm cameras (sorry only yashica ps and 120). don't waste your money on a replacement . everyone has superb cameras and lenses. yes, from shit consumer to hi-end are superb. your camera soundsalike it needs an overhaul. instead of wasting money on another camera that the same or worse issues and needs and overhaul, have your current camera fixed, it will be less expensive than paying for a new camera, wasting time effort and film on developing bad images and needing an overhaul or another broken camera. don't be internetbrainwashed into being on the gas go round. too many people keep buying just because they can, it won't change anything, a camera is just a box with a timer. seeing is more important than your box

If you wanted to do a seal replacement job yourself It’s easy to do and you can get your seals from Jon Goodman. I’ve bought many seals from Jon and instructions come with the seals.
If the camera requires a CLA it can exceed $100 plus shipping sometimes, then again any purchased body might require the same. Great thing about a CLA tho is getting the shutter speeds adjusted and everything lubed.
I’m not familiar with your body but I do know that on some of the older bodies the screens can be lousy whereas a late model will usually be much better.

 

[Alan Edward Klein]

I have had a Nikon N6006 for thirty years and still works like new. The shutter speed is electronic and I checked its accuracy recently. Perfect. It has all the features PASM, bracketing, built-in flash, built-in light meter, autofocus, etc. It's very cheap on the used market probably under $100 including a zoom lens. For a little more you could upgrade to the Nikon N8008.

Here are some recent shots I took with mine in BW (sorry no color):

Flickr Search

www.flickr.com

 

[Paul Howell]

I am ok without the PSAM and AF. I don't face issues with manual focus and the basic light meter exposure assist works well for me

In terms of cost the entry to mid level AF bodies are still a bargain, at least in the U.S. I assume you have your local markets in India, what seems to come in at lowest t cost?

 

[markjwyatt]

I was planning to try out the m42 lenses with a mount as well, that would help me own multiple bodies too by keeping the same lens set. Any disadvantage of choice?

I put an M42 kit around my Zeiss Ultron lens. M42 is nice because there are tons of lenses available in all price ranges, and from Germany and Japan. The most variety comes from Germany, because on the Japanese side they are mostly Pentax (which are great lenses in most cases) or 3rd party (e.g., Vivitar, Soligor, etc.); though there are others (e.g., Fujica, etc.). Do watch out for extended M-42 lenses that may be incompatible with some older or non-specific camera brands.

For bodies, you can get Prakitca (I have a good MTL5, and an LTL3 that may have a light leak plus a Praktica VF I have not used yet). Pentax (tons of Spotmatics- watch for capping at 1/1000th), and a couple Fujicas (605N and 705w). In the recent past I mainly used the Fujica 705w and the Praktica MTL5 because they have working meters and use modern (non-mercury) batteries, which is an issue here in the US.

 

[wiltw]

From your list I would recommend Olympus. Small bodies and tiny lens. Most of the most useful focal lenghts can be have very cheap. Also there is a adaptall adapters for Tamron.

I would either get the OM1 or the OM4. OM2 is more prone to failures than those two and the OM3 is expensive.

Regards.

The OM-n line is considered to be much more durable (aimed at pro market) than any of the OM-nn (double digit number) line, which was a budget line aimed at the mass market.

The OM-4 has a tendency to drain batteries faster, while the OM-4T has a redesigned circuit which better handles battery drain...there is no true 'Off' switch to disconnect the battery from circuitry.

 

[wiltw]

Olympus are light but do have a problem with the foam eating the prism silvering.

This 'foam rot' affect many (but not all) OM-1 and OM-2... my OM-1n which I purchased new in 1981 was sent in for this issue but it was not found to be affected. An Olympus-experienced tech has said later models have vinyl-like plastic instead of the foam above the prism.

 

[negativefunk]

As mentioned you could probably go with any of these systems.

I am a long time pentax user and I can vouch for the brand. If you are looking at the cheaper side, I would consider an ME super. There's plenty and they do their job well. I am still using the one that my father bought in the early 80s - though I should get round to fixing the closing mechanism of the back. I only had it serviced once in 40 years.

The KX/MX are a good recommendation (and one I would very much like to have myself), though I think they sell for higher prices.

I have a personal fetish for the Super A / super program. I like very much the quick exposure compensation with the buttons and the correction visible in the viewfinder. They tend to come cheap, but there's significantly less of them.

As for lenses, SMC M or A 50mm tends to come cheap - the 1.7 is a very good lens but there are quicker or slower ones too. a 28mm 2.8 is a decent performer. 35mm F2 FA is a lens i love but it is more expensive, I suppose there are cheaper manual ones in the 35mm range I am not familiar too. Pentax still does some lenses in K mount with an aperture ring, although they are not made for manual focus and it doesn't feel as pleasant as with the M\A ones.

Several third parties made K mounted lenses (tokina and sigma ), but i think variety/availability might be not on par with some of the other brands mentioned.

 

[Steven Lee]

All contemporary 35mm SLRs are pretty much the same camera. Only logos are and some minor features are different. Buy into mounts, not cameras. And when it comes to glass, nothing comes even close to Nikon F. All other mounts are long dead, meanwhile there are several manufacturers still making brand new F lenses today, including Nikon itself. There are hundreds of F-lenses available, from classic AI Nikkors and $20 Vivitars to modern Voigtlanders or $5K Zeiss Otus.

 

[MTGseattle]

I had to google the Yashicas to see what the OP was on about. My first impulse was to chime in about control layouts and how the various camera bodies feel when using them, but in "normal" 35mm slr format, is there really that much difference? There are a lot of good suggestions so far.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I have never used the Olympus OMs, but I have heard that they are well made and I have rarely heard anything negative about them.

 

[Chan Tran]

I have never used the Olympus OMs, but I have heard that they are well made and I have rarely heard anything negative about them.

I thought highly of the OM system back in the days but I didn't own Olympus. Many years later I have an OM-2n and I found that I very much dislike its meter. The exposure compensation is lousy although it's the feature I never use on any camera. I heard the OM-4 has problem of draining battery when not in use.