Calumet, Sinar an upgrade question.

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silveror0

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As a minimum, you'd need the 8x10 rear standard complete with groundglass, the 8x10 standard bellows and/or 8x10 bag bellows (there are two to chose from, version 1 or version 2), and possibly an extension rail of length to accommodate your choice of lens focal lengths and any closeup work you might want to do. The basic rail length + extension rail length you'll have to figure out. The basic rail normally has the black connector; extension rails have red connectors. You'll obviously need film holders and a sturdy tripod to handle the increased camera weight.
 

Nokton48

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Congrats on your Norma. Suggest you download the original catalog and instructions.
Lots of Norma parts out there.
 

Nokton48

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This one is from 1967. So right at the end of Norma.
 

Nokton48

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Here's my 8x10 Norma set up for tight B&W portraiture. Would also be good for Architectural tight shots.

8x10 Norma 480 Apo Ronar by Nokton48, on Flickr

Google "Reinhart Wolf" He is the 8x10 Norma long shot Architectural Master.
 

Nokton48

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https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sinar-Norm...904426?hash=item5478522daa:g:2CoAAOSwEDBduEK6
one more question, what's the purpose of this raised lens lens board?

OK,
Some lenses were set up at the Sinar factory, to provide setting of aperture by way of the flexible cable, which has the "rabbit ears" at the end of the cable. So what is there on auction, is just a part of the original factory lens/mechanism. The raised "hat" forward mounted the lens slightly, so that the rear cell of the lens would not strike the blades of the Norma Mechanical shutter. Sianr states that the rear cell should be within 1/10" of the front of the Norma Shutter. For you, you will not be able to use the cable, it was designed for a specific lens. But it might make it easier to set a remounted modern shutter, say in cold weather with gloved hands.

With a wide angle this board would not be so desirable, as it adds extension. But would work OK with a long lens.
 
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Darryl Roberts
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They are ridiculously expensive! I replaced mine with cheap Chinese bubble levels when mine dried out. They work as well as the old ones, only they're green instead of white. The hard part was removing the old ones. After that, you just level the standards using a carpenter's level, and super glue the news one on. You can also drill a tiny hole in the old level and fill it with alcohol (94% rubbing alcohol, Everclear, or denatured should work). Don't use water, as may have mold or bacteria in it which can grow and ruin the level. Then just seal the hole with super glue.


Thank you very much
 
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Darryl Roberts
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My levels are fine, but I never use them anyway, even for architectural photography. A large pendulum angle finder works a lot better. Besides, how many buildings are actually level and plumb? And film rarely lies dead square in the holder either. So some degree of correction later is inevitable. Why I was younger I combined roles as a distributor to contractors, a technical consultant to them (especially color and restoration consultation), and as the large format photographer of the job when they were done. Many of these involved extremely expensive restorations and remodels of historically significant buildings. But here in earthquake country, old buildings are rarely level. But out in the burbs, the houses and warehouses are built sloppy to begin with, but fortunately for me, don't deserve good photos either; I had no interest in the burbs. I was out hiking around the hills today with my Norma. But since I'll be 70 in just a few more months, you'd be correct in assuming that I'll pack a lightweight folder instead on my next two-week backpack, in this case, a 4x5 Ebony. The Norma is way faster to use.


Thank you sir.
 
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Darryl Roberts
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OK,
Some lenses were set up at the Sinar factory, to provide setting of aperture by way of the flexible cable, which has the "rabbit ears" at the end of the cable. So what is there on auction, is just a part of the original factory lens/mechanism. The raised "hat" forward mounted the lens slightly, so that the rear cell of the lens would not strike the blades of the Norma Mechanical shutter. Sianr states that the rear cell should be within 1/10" of the front of the Norma Shutter. For you, you will not be able to use the cable, it was designed for a specific lens. But it might make it easier to set a remounted modern shutter, say in cold weather with gloved hands.

With a wide angle this board would not be so desirable, as it adds extension. But would work OK with a long lens.


Thank you very much, you've been a great help to my progress.
 
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Darryl Roberts
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OK,
Some lenses were set up at the Sinar factory, to provide setting of aperture by way of the flexible cable, which has the "rabbit ears" at the end of the cable. So what is there on auction, is just a part of the original factory lens/mechanism. The raised "hat" forward mounted the lens slightly, so that the rear cell of the lens would not strike the blades of the Norma Mechanical shutter. Sianr states that the rear cell should be within 1/10" of the front of the Norma Shutter. For you, you will not be able to use the cable, it was designed for a specific lens. But it might make it easier to set a remounted modern shutter, say in cold weather with gloved hands.

With a wide angle this board would not be so desirable, as it adds extension. But would work OK with a long lens.


I saw come of your work on flickr, awesome. I too have been considering a Minolta Autocord :smile:
 

Nokton48

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Good Luck. Lots of good help is around.
 

Bob S

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Since you are in Atlanta go to Quality Camera behind GT. They have a huge assortment of used cameras, usually including all Sinar models and should also have the levels. Also a lot of used accessories and lenses.
 
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Darryl Roberts
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Since you are in Atlanta go to Quality Camera behind GT. They have a huge assortment of used cameras, usually including all Sinar models and should also have the levels. Also a lot of used accessories and lenses.

Thank you I will. I'm now in search of appropriate leg. Any suggestions?
 

Nokton48

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I'm now in search of appropriate leg. Any suggestions?

001 by Nokton48, on Flickr

There was a tripod Sinar made for the Norma. It is called the "FOBA C40". Just know it is a HEAVY beast.
If you want to be a Norma Purist this is the one to get. I've picked up a couple years ago on the cheap.

One of the bigger Manfrottos is what I used when working in the city. Out on location a Zone VI Lightweight wooden. Those are my choices.
 
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Darryl Roberts
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001 by Nokton48, on Flickr

There was a tripod Sinar made for the Norma. It is called the "FOBA C40". Just know it is a HEAVY beast.
If you want to be a Norma Purist this is the one to get. I've picked up a couple years ago on the cheap.

One of the bigger Manfrottos is what I used when working in the city. Out on location a Zone VI Lightweight wooden. Those are my choices.

Awesome, thank you
 
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