Calling all Nikkormat Users/Lovers

[Barry P]

I started with a chrome FT2 that I bought new in 1975 - still have it, use it, and it is fully functional. My most recent and exciting addition was a chrome FTN Nikomat that I won the other day on Ebay for $4.75 plus $10.50 S&H. It arrived a few days ago - is really clean and everything including the light meter works fine. Needs seals of course.

 

[Guillaume Zuili]

$4.75 + Shipping !
Speechless...

 

[puzzler860]

Hey John,

I have an Nikkormat FT with a jammed shutter. I cranked it one too many times with film in it, and now when I try to advance the shutter, the crank simply moves smoothly, without any indication of the gears working inside. My photography teacher said it might be the gear inside is stripped. Since you seem to have had similar problems at points, I am wondering how you resolved them. Did you have to use a professional? I'm debating just picking up another camera on Ebay because I'm not sure the cost is worth it.

jared

 

[John_Nikon_F]

Jared,

It does sound like something did get damaged. An overhaul usually will run somewhere between $120 and $130. So, I think I would look for another body, since it will probably be less expensive than repairing yours. That said, I would take it to a shop and see what they say. It's possible they could do the repair without an overhaul. If you do replace it and want another 'mat, I'd look into the FT2 model. Same basic camera, but, semiautomatic meter indexing (introduced on the FTn body), and, instead of using the removable accessory shoe, it has a built-in hot shoe for flash usage. It also has the shutter speeds shown at the bottom of the viewfinder.

One thing you can try before giving up, is if the camera still has film in it, use a capped pen, and try to push in the rewind button. That might release tension and let you finish the advance stroke on the wind lever, while being able to rewind the film as well. It almost sounds like the camera isn't advanced fully.

-J

 

[taulen]

Hey,
some time ago I got a Nikkormat FTn from my step-father. And I do wonder if it originally had orange letters like in this picture, or if it at some time has been "painted", do anyone know ? My step-father didn't know, as he had bought it used like this.

Thank you =)

 

[John_Nikon_F]

It's definitely not original. They would've been white. It almost looks like the camera spent some time in an room where it was continually exposed to tobacco smoke. You might try using a small brush with a tiny amount of liquid soap on it. That might restore the nameplate to original condition. If it doesn't work, then check at camera repair shops in the area for a replacement nameplate.

-J

 

[taulen]

No, not at all, it has charm, I like it, and it's much more orange than on the picture, (terrible camera-phone), and it's definitely "painted" or something, so no tobacco-smoke. Maybe purchase spare replacement nameplate for the future, but for now, I like it at least =)

 

[Irrev.Rev.]

Happy to join all the happy owners; just inherited the FT along with the F from father-in-law. Probably haven't been used in many years, so dropped them off for CLA yesteday. Looking forward to the pleasure of their company; they'll be joining the N6006 and 90s.

John

 

[cokin]

the FT3 was the first Nikkormat model that took the easy-to-find #76 silver-oxide cells. The meters in the previous models took the now illegal #625 mercury batteries.

The FT2 also used the S76 silver oxide cell.

 

[Q.G.]

No, not at all, it has charm, I like it, and it's much more orange than on the picture, (terrible camera-phone), and it's definitely "painted" or something, so no tobacco-smoke. Maybe purchase spare replacement nameplate for the future, but for now, I like it at least =)

If you ever decide you want a different colour lettering, there's no need to purchase a replacement name plate.
It's easy enough to remove the paint, and fill in the letters with paint in a colour of your choice.

 

[cokin]

I picked up a Nikkormat FT2 off the bay back in September, and with the exception of a small dent in the prism, it is a great camera!

 

[firecracker]

Hey John,

I have an Nikkormat FT with a jammed shutter. I cranked it one too many times with film in it, and now when I try to advance the shutter, the crank simply moves smoothly, without any indication of the gears working inside. My photography teacher said it might be the gear inside is stripped. Since you seem to have had similar problems at points, I am wondering how you resolved them. Did you have to use a professional? I'm debating just picking up another camera on Ebay because I'm not sure the cost is worth it.

jared

I have a FM and a similar thing happened to it last month; the shutter was jammed and didn't move but only the film advancing lever worked.

So, I put it on a shelf and didn't even think about the repair, but today I just checked it, it worked again without showing that problem.

It might have been damaged inside, so I'm gonna contact a repair shop Monday and find out what I should do...

 

[Pumal]

All my Nikkiormats are rewired and working perfectly. (5; 3 Blacks and 2 Chromes)

 

[John_Nikon_F]

I picked up a Nikkormat FT2 off the bay back in September, and with the exception of a small dent in the prism, it is a great camera!

Looks good. If you do decide to replace the top cover, Pacific Rim Camera, in Salem, Oregon, has a few NOS black FT2 top covers. I'm actually eyeing one for mine, even though my body only has some slight brassing and a couple small dings on it. They want $25, plus shipping, for one...

 

[PhotoGizmo]

Jared,

It does sound like something did get damaged. An overhaul usually will run somewhere between $120 and $130. So, I think I would look for another body, since it will probably be less expensive than repairing yours.

-J

I have had all of my cameras overhauled at one point or another. An overhaul means the body gets cleaned out, old solidified lubricants are replaced, the door seals are changed, the shutter calibrated, film transport cleaned, and a host of other items looked at. If you have a camera with the older 1.35v button cell, the repairman can recalibrate the meter to accept the newer 1.5v button cells. Wein cells are OK, but they die quickly and never at a convenient time.

Like a car, you can drive one without maintenance, but it may not be as reliable as you want it to be. Mechanical camera experts are thinning out. You might not be able to find a competent one in a few years.

I think $130 is cheap insurance, and your camera will last for years afterward.

 

[benjiboy]

I have had all of my cameras overhauled at one point or another. An overhaul means the body gets cleaned out, old solidified lubricants are replaced, the door seals are changed, the shutter calibrated, film transport cleaned, and a host of other items looked at. If you have a camera with the older 1.35v button cell, the repairman can recalibrate the meter to accept the newer 1.5v button cells. Wein cells are OK, but they die quickly and never at a convenient time.

Like a car, you can drive one without maintenance, but it may not be as reliable as you want it to be. Mechanical camera experts are thinning out. You might not be able to find a competent one in a few years.

I think $130 is cheap insurance, and your camera will last for years afterward.

I agree, buying another camera that's more than twenty years old, and has never been serviced in it's history isn't a solution if you want a reliable picture making instrument IMO

 

[al5256]

Nikkormat FT3 and Nikkorex F

I always wanted to have a Nikkormat when I was a teenager. By the time I was in graduate school I settled down by a FE and then got a used Nikon F. After many years, now I restarted BW film processing again and I have a renewed interest to obtain the older Nikon bodies. First I got a Nikkorex F next to nothing from the auction site then I won a Nikkormat FT3 body paying again next to nothing. The sellers description was "Works Fine" which really meant shutter was working, actually the AI ring was jammed and the battery was oxidized so meter wasn't functional. Anyway I took my chances and disassemble the F mount, re-seated the AI ring and tightened the inner screws, put a new silver battery in and cleaned the sticky foam particles from the mirror. Now the camera works like a charm and the meter agrees totally with FE. By the way there is no comparison to Nikkorex F (the shutter sounds like a shot-gun) and compared to FE I think Nikkormat was very robust and made with more precision like Nikon F.

 

[lxdude]

I love that the shutter speeds are set by a ring around the lens mount. Is it so fun!

Careful now, don't handle an OM-1 or you'll be swooning!
I love the way it handles (and its viewfinder), and while I need more cameras like I need a hole in the head, I have this feeling that an OM-1 and some of those little Zuiko jewels will have to become part of my life eventually.

Sorry to subvert the thread. On topic: I used to have a Nikkormat FTN. Solid and serious, is how I described it. Sold it when I got F2's.

 

[2F/2F]

They are good and cheap cameras. Too bad hipsters are starting to pick them up, if what you say is true

 

[lxdude]

Too bad hipsters are starting to pick them up, if what you say is true

Nothing new there. I used to (late 70's) see some roller skaters always hanging around near the pier in Santa Monica, with Nikon F2 Photomics or Nikkormats hanging off their shoulders. They skated around some, but I never saw any take a picture.

I admit I was envious, though my disdain helped me feel better.

 

[John_Nikon_F]

I have had all of my cameras overhauled at one point or another. An overhaul means the body gets cleaned out, old solidified lubricants are replaced, the door seals are changed, the shutter calibrated, film transport cleaned, and a host of other items looked at. If you have a camera with the older 1.35v button cell, the repairman can recalibrate the meter to accept the newer 1.5v button cells. Wein cells are OK, but they die quickly and never at a convenient time.

Like a car, you can drive one without maintenance, but it may not be as reliable as you want it to be. Mechanical camera experts are thinning out. You might not be able to find a competent one in a few years.

I think $130 is cheap insurance, and your camera will last for years afterward.

The reason I suggested getting a different body, is due to the upgrades that Nikon did when the FTn came out. Namely the centerweighted meter, instead of the full-frame averaging meter, the semiautomatic indexing of the max. aperture of the lens, and the in-viewfinder display of the shutter speeds. Also, later FTn's had a couple of focusing screen options, in that people could get the "A" screen with the split-image and no microprism, the "K" screen with both, or the original "J" screen with only the microprism spot. Then, the FT2 fixed the battery issue by going to the V76PX style battery and a smaller battery box. Also added a lock for the ASA setting tab, as well as a hot shoe. As far as I know, the FT2 never came with the "J" screen as standard equipment, although, I once had an FT2 that already came with said screen installed when I bought it. Granted, it also had a Nikomat FTn nameplate on it with the older 'Nikomat" font.

-J

 

[j-dogg]

Here's mine. Just polished off a roll of Kodachrome KR64, 3 more in the mail coming and two of them are going in this camera, the 3rd is for my Minolta Maxxum 4 which is the sharpest 35mm in my group (haven't developed anything off my Canon Elan7e yet)

There's a datestamp from Jan. 1990, I think it had a CLA done because the seals are like new and everything is smooth as silk. I've put about 10 rolls through it.

Lenses are:

55-135 f3.5 Vivitar (pictured)
50mm Nikkor-H f2 (needs SERIOUS love)
28mm Albinar ADG 2.8 macro
35mm f2.8 Nikkor
28mm f3.5 Nikkor-G
28mm 2.8 Rokinon
80-200 f4.5 Rokinon

 

[drkhalsa]

This summer I was given a silver Nikkormat FTN a Nikon F and Nikon FG along with a few lenses.

The Nikkormat is a beautiful piece of work. It is very clean, solid and works great. The period lenses for the F and FTN are the Nikkor-S Auto f1.4 50mm and the Zoom-Nikkor Auto f3.5 43mm-86mm.

The eyepiece for both cameras are missing. For the Nikkormat, I bought a rubber o-ring of the appropriate diameter at the hardware store and glued it to the camera so it can rest against my glasses.

I wasn't sure how I would like the shutter speed selector, but have adapted to it quite easily.