Yes, they are because they're fast. They're sensitive so they also respond more strongly to heat and background radiation.
I personally don't think an anti-foggant/restrainer is really necessary when using reasonably fresh or slow film.
Yes, they are because they're fast. They're sensitive so they also respond more strongly to heat and background radiation.Are higher speed films susceptible to fog and if they are why are they?
Yes, they are because they're fast. They're sensitive so they also respond more strongly to heat and background radiation.
I personally don't think an anti-foggant/restrainer is really necessary when using reasonably fresh or slow film.
Thanks Just to be sure, if a fast film, say HP5+ or Delta 3200 is reasonably fresh then KBr is unlikely to be needed? Assuming the user has properly stored the fresh film then at what age might it be affected by fog and if it might be affected, can you still simply print through it without it affectíng the print ?
That's what I'd expect, yes. Of course, a restrainer when added in small amounts will subtly affect the tonal curve, especially in the toe region. So the statement "without affecting the print" will always be a bit problematic if it's taken in a literal, absolute way. So I'd add "for all intents and purposes."
with less smell
Not as good as Kbr. Here a test from Reinhold (imagesfrugales) :So iodized table salt will work instead of KBr, with less smell
The water needn't be deionized; tap water will be fine.
You need some soda to speed things up though, otherwise you'll have a glacially slow developer.
Yes, you need those - at least the fixer. The other two you could omit. There's no DIY substitute for fixer.
For a stop bath, you can use (cleaning) vinegar or citric acid from the supermarket/baker's store.
Single use.
There's no DIY substitute for fixerIt is. Caffenol is a relatively expensive developer and I wonder if an LCA would support the eco-friendliness often attributed to it.
Correct! At the dawn of photography, in 1839, people such as Fox Talbot experimented with highly concentrated salt (NaCl) solutions, but they really didn't dissolve unexposed silver halides and their complexes successfully. Film and paper only get minimal protection and will continue to darken over time. In 1840, William Herschel discovered that sodium thiosulfate ("hypo") was far superior and actually worked properly as a fixer. This quickly became the standard because it genuinely dissolves unexposed silver compounds, while salt really doesn't. Consequently, as Koraks already said, there is no household substitute for a commercial fixer.
If that is caffenol, then salt help minimizing the stain (vitamin C does too)Not as good as Kbr. Here a test from Reinhold (imagesfrugales) :
View attachment 410487
which is different than fog
If that is caffenol, then salt help minimizing the stain (vitamin C does too)
which is different than fog
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