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- Nov 26, 2010
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These pretty much match the original formulas we used during R&D of C41 products in the '80s.
Enjoy.
PE
Thank you very much for this revelation.
I have made a couple runs to fine-tune it (got ph 10.17-10.21 which was first unnoticed by my crappy ph-meter), but then I was astonished by quality.
Much sharper, more dense and true to colors than Tetenal, Digibase, Rollei and other third-company pre-made packs.
Even though I use ferricyanide bleach I now get well color balanced negatices, that could be easily scanned ad color-corrected in post-edit. Even fuji films now look natural, which I never considered possible in my amateur workflow.
Thank you, thank you, PE. That was amazing experience!!!
Long days and color wins!
Hello there! I know that's an old thread, but it worth to tryI want to mix photo engineer formula and I got almost all elements for developer. There is one component which is confusing me a bit and I wanted to ask someone who already mix it. It's about Dyethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid pentasodium salt (40% sol.) ----- 8.43g. I am not sure if it's grams or it should be mL , because the formula is given as 40% solution. How did you measured this one?
Kodak loved to measure by weight - even liquids - because weight measurements were so much more accurate. You will find Kodak patents, which require solid and liquid ingredients, all measured in grams.
Hello,
I decided to test the formula, but I'm having a hard time getting DTPA - too expensive and too slow to ship. Can it be replaced with Calgon or EDTA-4na/EDTA-2na?
How important is this component and what would be the consequences of missing it?
Can it be replaced with Calgon or EDTA-4Na/EDTA-2Na?
EDTA-4Na/EDTA-2Na is weaker than DTPA and will not sequester Fe and Cu to the point, where it stops Fenton's reaction. You use EDTA to solve problems with water hardness, but not with decomposition of developer.
it gives a deviation of about +0.3-0.4
Thanks for the answers.
I am familiar with the PH compensation - I have a PH meter, but at the moment I have problems with it - it gives a deviation of about +0.3-0.4 and because of the large difference it refuses to calibrate. The electrode is new, but there must be something wrong with the stay or delivery - I will torture it with cleaning fluid, if not - I will order a new one...
Yes, I understand, but I don't have a big budget for precision technics.
My model is an ETI 8100 Plus - I bought it after a quick search on the web.
For the batteries there is an indicator that shows maximum charge, but I might try that too...
Question: not trying to stir anything.
But why not just by Kodak c41?
Question: not trying to stir anything.
But why not just by Kodak c41?
why not just by Kodak c41?
I have a PH meter, but at the moment I have problems with it - it gives a deviation of about +0.3-0.4 and because of the large difference it refuses to calibrate. The electrode is new, but there must be something wrong with the stay or delivery - I will torture it with cleaning fluid, if not - I will order a new one...
That is most likely the special (and delicate) glass for the pH sensing part of the probe. With these it's normal to need to "hydrate" the probe before using. This is what the soaking in the 7-buffer is for.At the bottom it ends with a guard and a glass ball.
The guys at ETI sent me a new electrode directly.
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