C41 color development issues

[SuXarik]

Hello all!
Started experimenting with diy development of color film. But I clearly am doing something wrong.
1) I'm using Jobo CPE processor
2) 270ml of solution (I use original Fuji NQ1-RS), BUT no developer starter
3) 38C and 3.15 min constant rotation in Jobo
4) Stop
5) DIY bleach for 8 min
and so on ...
I got purple cast close to film sprockets and overall strange colors

WHat am I doing wrong ?

Thanks.

 

[Sirius Glass]

You do not need the starter. Perhaps you should use stop bath after the color developer to avoid chemical crossover. Ask PE.

 

[SuXarik]

You do not need the starter. Perhaps you should use stop bath after the color developer to avoid chemical crossover. Ask PE.

Stop is #4 in my list, right after dev

 

[railwayman3]

The first shot is difficult to judge, but the shot of the guy with the beer looks as if it might be a tad underexposed (and perhaps not helped by flat lighting?)?

 

[Photo Engineer]

If it is a C41 developer (not replenisher), then you do not use starter. If it is Replenisher, then you must use a starter. This is for C41!

As for the samples, it is impossible to say without more scans and perhaps a picture of the film strip itself.

PE

 

[SuXarik]

If it is a C41 developer (not replenisher), then you do not use starter. If it is Replenisher, then you must use a starter. This is for C41!

As for the samples, it is impossible to say without more scans and perhaps a picture of the film strip itself.

PE

Thanks everyone for the answers.

Added two more photos. One clearly has purple cast on top, second is negative

 

[Photo Engineer]

Maybe it is my monitor but I don't see any purple cast. As for the photos, looks like fluorescent lighting. If so, this is the problem. Fluorescent lights have a discontinuous spectrum as opposed to tungsten or day light. That can cause a cast.

PE

 

[Truzi]

Maybe it is my monitor but I don't see any purple cast.

That's because it's Magenta

I'm having difficulty seeing a purple cast as well, but I think I see something in the photo of the gentleman in the green sweatshirt - on the walls around the pictures and to the left of the window. I also see a green cast at the bottom of the photo (at the corners, most obvious on the right).

I know nothing of these things, and haven't done color yet, but it seems similar to other examples where it was determined to be uneven development due to a water "stop" instead of an acidic stop bath - though the OP stated stop was used.

 

[Photo Engineer]

Fluorescent lights can do this.

PE

 

[Sirius Glass]

But magenta is not a color!

 

[SuXarik]

But magenta is not a color!

Purple/magenta: yes it's definitely there. Why is it close to sprockets? It's most noticeable in the dark shadows, it's like my black color became magenta.
Sorry for the answer delay, different time zone and 16 days non-stop work week)

 

[Sirius Glass]

But magenta is not a color!

Purple/magenta: yes it's definitely there. Why is it close to sprockets? It's most noticeable in the dark shadows, it's like my black color became magenta.
Sorry for the answer delay, different time zone and 16 days non-stop work week)

There was an APUG troll who was banished several years ago who claimed that magenta is not a color. That was posted for the amusement of the longer term members.

 

[SuXarik]

There was an APUG troll who was banished several years ago who claimed that magenta is not a color. That was posted for the amusement of the longer term members.

That's explains it)
Still any more ideas of what I'm doing wrong , judging by photos?

 

[Sirius Glass]

The others are better versed in the details of color development, so no.

 

[SuXarik]

The others are better versed in the details of color development, so no.

Thanks anyway! Will be trying developing more

 

[Photo Engineer]

Not sure about this one, but bad agitation could be part of this, and the need for a stop bath after the developer.

PE

 

[SuXarik]

Not sure about this one, but bad agitation could be part of this, and the need for a stop bath after the developer.

PE

Done more development. Looks like You were wright. A proper stop made everything better concerning purple/magenta cast. But now I've got a problem with grain. My negatives come out with base color very similar to the one I've got in the lab, but the image itself is very dark. I doubt it is overexposed, since I've made exposures with different cameras, and after development they all look the same.
So as I told before I've used replenisher + 20 ml of exhausted developer (as starter) for 280ml total in Jobo CPE for 3.15min at 38C. Can the grain and dark color be the result of overdevelopment?
Thanks.

 

[Photo Engineer]

Grain depends on the film and exposure. Fast film gives more grain and more exposure gives more density and more grain.

PE

 

[Truzi]

You posted an outdoor scene - does your lastest batch include photos in similar lighting to your original post.
If not, you have not ruled-out PE's suggestion that fluorescent lights could be a contributing factor.

 

[SuXarik]

You posted an outdoor scene - does your lastest batch include photos in similar lighting to your original post.
If not, you have not ruled-out PE's suggestion that fluorescent lights could be a contributing factor.

I believe so, indoors:

 

[Rudeofus]

Another explanation for excessive grain could be retained silver, which in turn is the result of incomplete BLIXing. This effect would also show up as reduced saturation. Only exposed parts of your negatives would be affected, but not the frame edges or unexposed parts of the leader, i.e. base density would look normal.

If re-BLIXing makes a difference, you have solved the problem. Otherwise, you could have excessive colour development leading to pushed results for whatever reason (too high pH, excessive dev time, ...)

 

[Photo Engineer]

Again, I ask, what film were you using?

PE

 

[trythis]

I had some issues of dark and grainy negatives and reblix helped. Blix really has no useful shelf life.


Sent with typotalk

 

[SuXarik]

Again, I ask, what film were you using?

PE

Well, my grain seems the same at Portra 400 and Gold 200. What is worst is if my photo contains big portion of blue sky or black something, this portion is ugly "pixelised". 70-100% ZOOM on photo and it's ugly different colors pixels are everywhere.

 

[Photo Engineer]

Those two films are grainier than the slower films. So, that explains the grain.

Even so, there is aliasing with scanners depending on quality and resolution selected. Grain in films is generally much less than digitization can cope with and thus you get these results. Look at the film with a loupe on a light table and check it out. I find much finer grain than I observe in the scanned image.

I am using a Portra 160 image as my wallpaper on a large computer monitor. No grain there!

PE