Okay, here it is. Here's one of the pictures from that roll of film. The film itself, upon first looking at it, does look brownish/reddish, but here, scanned, it does look decent. I did nothing to it. I simply scanned it.
View attachment 62159
Hmmm? Interesting. Maybe I just needed to have more patience with the negative. It perhaps required more tinkering with it.
I compared them to some 4x5 negatives I had processed at a lab and you're all right, the negatives do look a bit brownish.Do you have C41 negs processed by a lab to compare them to? The mask is kind of a burnt orange and varies a bit between film types.
Yes, I think so too. I gave up too soon on that negative. Had I kept working on it, I would've gotten a "perfect" print.The scan indicates that your process is just fine. You are being put off by the orange mask common to most color negative films.
PE
Polyglot:
My kit's instructions didn't recommend washes between chemistry steps; they only recommended one at the very beginning. Do you wash between steps because your kit tells you to do this or do you chose to do it this way? I ask because I want to do this. It seems appropriate to get rid of the chemistry and not contaminate the next step.
All:
Where can I get another color kit in the U.S.? I got mine from Freestyle. They have others but they use "blix" (bleach and fix combined) and I hear this is not a good way to go. From what I've read the only kits that use bleach and fix separately are Rollei, Kodak, and Fuji, right? Where can I get a Fuji kit in the U.S.?
Thanks.
OMG, no washes? Insane. Almost as bad as using a blix!
I just posted the official C41 process here, and remember that EK now suggests a stop bath after the developer for rotary tank processes to promote uniformity.
PE
Here is APUG, and it was in a thread that you asked me for the instructions for reusing developer. How do you extend the times. I posted everything. I'm surprised you missed it.
The current process is Dev, stop, bleach, wash, fix, wash, final rinse.
PE
Ron, where do you find from Kodak the suggestion for a stop with rotary processing? I don't see any changes in the tech sheets.
Yes! Absolutely true. I used the Rollei kit for my film developing and they don't tell you to wash in between steps. They only suggest a pre-wash and that's it.Some of the kit instructions are extremely lacking and don't tell you when you need to wash, or put them in as a footnote that's not very clear at all. There's a long APUG thread (also linked from my howto) about the Rollei kit that discusses the washing issue and shortfalls in kit instructions.
Sigh!
These instructions on process cycle and capacity are still in the Kodak manuals for color processing.
The only change that I saw is the change to suggest a 1 - 2% stop bath after the color developer. This was for RA4 and C-41 when the bix/bleach respectively were at about pH 6.5 and were deep red. In the years intervening, Kodak released a low pH bleach for C41 that probably could replace a stop. I can find NO reference to support my comment and therefore it is irrelevant. However, I have found many many references to a stop in RA4.
In fact, I was recalled from a Christmas vacation to work on the then Ektaprint 2 and 3 stop bath! Ok, so I know whereof I speak. There were nonuniform results from processes with the RED bleach / blix that caused problems in C41 and Ektapint 3 / RA4. It is STILL a problem in RA4 and so a Stop is needed but it is a "maybe" in C41. Therefore I say "if it works, use" it in terms of process cycle.
Sorry for any confusion caused by my posts, but ere is what I have found after a search of 20+ years of Kodak pubs. Whatta way to spend a Sunday evening!
PE
Thanks Ron!
Do you have the capacity for 120?
Hi,
I'm not Ron, but I can answer this one. 120 is equivalent to a 36exp roll of 35mm.
mike
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