Buying an Enlarger

[Mark Fisher]

I may get a digital timer in the end. I'm still thinking it would be more convenient, but I'm trying to save as much money as possible. I can deal with a little inconvenience if i'm saving $100 or so

Honestly, I have a home built simple digital timer that came with my enlarger (well, probably not digital...it is about 30 years old built with nixie tubes!). I also have a used digital timer for my other enlarger that I paid $30 for. Used digital timers are fine!

 

[WGibsonPhotography]

Honestly, I have a home built simple digital timer that came with my enlarger (well, probably not digital...it is about 30 years old built with nixie tubes!). I also have a used digital timer for my other enlarger that I paid $30 for. Used digital timers are fine!

I've bid on a Gralab 300 timer on ebay. It's at about $12.50 right now (plus $20 shipping :/ ). If I get outbid on this one, I may try to find a digital one on Ebay. I've decided that I can work around not having a digital one if I dont have one. The convenience of a digital timer might be worth more than what I'm saving by going analog. :/ I'll just see how it goes

 

[Nicholas Lindan]

You will need a GraLab style timer in any case to time film and paper processing.

GraLab's leave much to be desired when used with an enlarger - they are better suited to timing minutes not seconds. When you are starting out with only one timer then a GraLab is the one to get. I use the Time-O-Light equivalent and the timer makes a whirring noise when it runs. The noise used to really annoy me until I worked in a lab with silent GraLab timers. With the silent timers I was always missing the point when the timer ran out and I was leaving prints to slosh around in the developer tray for all sorts of odd, and rather long, times.

You may want to equip your GraLab with an f-Stop Timing dial for enlarging. They are available in a pure f-stop 1/10th stop version
http://www.darkroomautomation.com/support/grastops.pdf

and a hybrid seconds-stops 1/12th stop version.
Dead Link Removed

 

[WGibsonPhotography]

You will need a GraLab style timer in any case to time film and paper processing. QUOTE]


Why do I need a GraLab timer for film and paper processing? I've been doing just fine with a kitchen timer from Target. I've even used a cell phone stopwatch when my timer's battery went dead

 

[bdial]

GraLab 300's are nice for processing, as the large dial is easy to read, and you can use it in the dark for doing tray or open tank processing. For the enlarger, they aren't so hot, IMO, because they don't repeat, and can't be set for a precise number of seconds.

Are they necessary for processing? Certainly not.

As Nicholas says, the GraLab's are quiet, but the do make a fairly audible click when the time runs out, which I listen for as my signal that whatever interval I'm timing has run out, if I don't happen to be watching it. For things where timing is critical, I make sure I'm watching it.

 

[dougjgreen]

GraLab 300's are nice for processing, as the large dial is easy to read, and you can use it in the dark for doing tray or open tank processing. For the enlarger, they aren't so hot, IMO, because they don't repeat, and can't be set for a precise number of seconds.

Are they necessary for processing? Certainly not.

As Nicholas says, the GraLab's are quiet, but the do make a fairly audible click when the time runs out, which I listen for as my signal that whatever interval I'm timing has run out, if I don't happen to be watching it. For things where timing is critical, I make sure I'm watching it.

It's very easy to set a Gralab precisely within a half second - the dial is huge, and one certainly can position the hands at positions much less than a second apart. If you really think that a setting of 13.3 seconds vs. 13.6 seconds - which is the type of real world variance that one might see with a Gralab timer, actually makes a difference, you're inhaling too many darkroom chemicals. Frankly, the accuracy of any lens' diaphragm blades is a noticeably larger source of exposure variance than inconsistent settings from a Gralab's lack of repeat timing. Gralabs also have a very loud buzzer that can be turned on and off, as well as adjusted for volume, which is MUCH more audible than the click of the hands if the buzzer has been turned off.

 

[WGibsonPhotography]

It's very easy to set a Gralab precisely within a half second - the dial is huge, and one certainly can position the hands at positions much less than a second apart. If you really think that a setting of 13.3 seconds vs. 13.6 seconds - which is the type of real world variance that one might see with a Gralab timer, actually makes a difference, you're inhaling too many darkroom chemicals. Frankly, the accuracy of any lens' diaphragm blades is a noticeably larger source of exposure variance than inconsistent settings from a Gralab's lack of repeat timing. Gralabs also have a very loud buzzer that can be turned on and off, as well as adjusted for volume, which is MUCH more audible than the click of the hands if the buzzer has been turned off.

My exposure time for slavich unibrom paper in the school's darkroom have been between 60 and 90 seconds at F/8 or F/11 (I cant remember which, but I have it written on the back of the prints). Half a second or a whole second too long or short wont make much of a difference, I dont think.

I could easily get outbid on the Gralab, If I do, I'll look for a digital timer. I'm not gonna be too picky either way

 

[bdial]

I've been using GraLabs for around 30 years, I know they have buzzers, and I know how loud they are, but if you pay attention the buzzer isn't necessary.
Resetting the thing for every exposure is a needless nuisance, and provides opportunities for errors. Printing with resetting timers, analog or digital, is much easier and way more productive, even if you're working at times where the precision isn't an issue. And they still have those same benefits if you're working with times where precision a consideration.

 

[dougjgreen]

If you consider spending approximately a second to set the timer on a Gralab to be a needless nuisance, so be it. But I guess you consider breathing to be a nuisance as well (although perhaps not a needless one). It's about equally challenging to set the hands on a Gralab as it is to breathe, or to scratch your nose when it itches.

 

[MattKing]

A Gralab 300 does what it does very well. IMHO however, it is better as a process timer than an enlarging timer, especially if you print in multiples (can you say postcard exchange?).

I use my Gralab 300 to time roller processing of film.

A digital printing timer, or an analogue printing timer, has real advantages - especially one that has a footswitch capability. If you buy one, it will be beneficial to you.

Matt

 

[WGibsonPhotography]

Well, I'm still the high bidder on a GraLab timer on Ebay (a massive $12.49, unless someone has bid in the last few minutes). Any arguments against it right now are pretty useless to me as long as I'm the high bidder. If I win it and dont like it, I can get a different enlarger timer and use that one as a timer for processing paper and film.

 

[John Koehrer]

I hope you folks realize there were/are several models of the Gralab. The one most referred to here is the 300.The model 400 is an auto resetting enlarging timer, it has a max time of 60 sec. & has all the control of the Time-O-Lite M59 or a basic digi timer.

 

[dougjgreen]

The OP has already mentioned that with the paper he used with the enlarger setup he had, he was typically looking at enlarger timings somewhat over a minute. Although, I'm sure with a 23CII and a good 50mm lens, he'll probably see that he could expose at F5.6 or f8 with times well under a minute.

 

[Ranger Bob]

Before you drop $500+ on an enlarger and related items, you probably should consider that you could almost certainly find a perfectly nice used outfit for a tiny fraction of that amount. Digital has really put most film darkroom gear into the obsolete category (along with film cameras). I've seen Beseler 23C enlargers (which are a step up from the model you are considering) for essentially the cost to ship them. And top quality used enlarging lenses like El Nikkors, going for prices like $20-25 (and at that price, the obvious answer would be, get BOTH, an 80mm and a 50mm so you could use the one best oriented to each film format).

Here's a couple of examples:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Beseler-23CIII-...9955QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVWQQsalenotsupported

http://cgi.ebay.com/Beseler-23C-II-...2262QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVWQQsalenotsupported

If someone doesnt buy new stuff, then the new stuff makers will quit making the stuff we need. Someone needs to buy new stuff.

 

[dougjgreen]

You go buy the new stuff. I'll buy the used. Someone needs to buy the used stuff, so that our significant others will let us replace that used stuff with other stuff we need to have due to our incurable case of GAS.

 

[WGibsonPhotography]

I just won a Saunders 11x14 four-blade easel for just under $63

 

[WGibsonPhotography]

My GraLab timer came in today. Actually, it got delivered to someone else's house and I had to drive down the road to pick it up :\

It works perfectly. I'm expecting the enlarger and easel to be in Monday.

I still need a grain focuser, developing trays, and a safelight? Developing trays are developing trays, so I dont need any advice on them. I'm considering buying the safelight and grain focuser from Freestyle. Does anyone have any experience with this grain focuser http://www.freestylephoto.biz/4731099-Deluxe-Grain-Focuser ?
Should I get that one or splurge and get this one http://www.freestylephoto.biz/1194495-Micro-Sight-Grain-Focuser-25X

 

[dougjgreen]

I would find out what the magnification is on the grain focuser. Some of them are only 2x or 3x, which is nearly useless. The one that you are looking at is, I suspect, one of those. I use a Patterson model, which is 10x and it was cheap when I got it 25 years ago. The best ones are the ones from Micromega which have are 10x and also have an extra large mirror so that they can be used at the edges of the frame. But those cost about 5x what the Pattersons cost.

The ones from Peak are copies of the Micromega. The Bestwell is good, but I wouldn't pay $70 for it. There is a Bestwell Microsight on ebay that will probably go for under $30. There's also a Micromega on ebay right now.

See what you can get ebay item # 180363327910 (micromega) for.
the Bestwell is item #140322516490

 

[Phillip P. Dimor]

$70 could possibly buy you a Peak/Micromega Critical grain focuser used (and probably fairly beaten up). If you are seriously considering this hobby and sticking with it for the foreseeable future, it's a good investment. I've been using a Paterson plastic cheapie and it works well. New they are about $30. Used they are much cheaper. I wouldn't buy it new.
A good enlarger that is properly aligned, with a good enlarging lens and a nice flat easel with a focusing aid that works is all you really need. Most everything else is just convenience.

 

[WGibsonPhotography]

Thanks Phillip and Dougjgreen. I'll keep your opinions in mind, but I dont think I'll be buying any more darkrrom stuff for a few days. I want my bank account to heal for a few days. Besides, it's gonna take me a while to get the enlarger put together, which came in today

I think I can figure it out. It's fairly self explanatory, I think. If not, I'll probably be back in a few hours asking what this or that little part goes to Now if only my easel was here...

 

[WGibsonPhotography]

Well, I got the enlarger put together right. I just have one problem: The light doesnt work. I have it plugged in to the voltage stabilizer, and the voltage stabilizer is plugged in to the wall. when I turn the lamp switch on the voltage stabilizer on, the fan comes on, but there is no light. Have I just not connected something?

There's a little bulb inside a larger dome. Is there supposed to be glass on the bottom of the dome (at the bottom facing downward)? If so there isnt. Also, where the light connects to the enlarger, there's white stuff around the prongs. It's not on the prongs sticking out in to the enalrger. It's actually underneath the glass where the prongs connect in to it. Is that corrosion or some kind of adhesive or sealant?

Is any of that making sense? It's not a problem to buy a new bulb, and I considered buying one anyway because I dont know how old this one is. Any advice would be appreciated.

Other than that little problem, everything seems to be working fine

 

[dougjgreen]

It's almost certainly a dead bulb. You can clean the contacts with a nail file (obviously, not while it's plugged in)

 

[WGibsonPhotography]

It's almost certainly a dead bulb. You can clean the contacts with a nail file (obviously, not while it's plugged in)

But cleaning the contacts with a nail file while it's plugged in would be so much faster. I wouldnt have to waste time unplugging the enlarger and taking the light bulb out. I could just file the contacts until the light came on

I'm under the impression that it's just a dead bulb because the fan comes on and seems to work properly (it blows out a buttload of air). At Freestyle, they're like $12, so it's not a big deal to get one. I considered going to Lowe's or Home Depot to see if they had a light like that, but I doubt they do, unless those bulbs are used for something other than film enlargers (which I doubt).

 

[WGibsonPhotography]

I tested the power to where the light plugs in, and there's no power coming to it. Is there a switch somewhere that I need to flip on? If there is, I cant find it

 

[dougjgreen]

I tested the power to where the light plugs in, and there's no power coming to it. Is there a switch somewhere that I need to flip on? If there is, I cant find it

The same switch that powers the fan. If you're getting power to the fan, and not the bulb, there is an electrical fault in the enlarger.