Buy grit for grinding ground glass in EU?

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eli griggs

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Looks great!


Yeah, that crossed my mind too, hehe. Careful with that; better wear goggles and a leather apron. But I can see the benefit in using a machine for this.

Hand grinding a plate of glass, is not a long process or vigorously done and, as long as you wear a eye shield or mask to stop yourself from rubbing compound into your eyes, you're pretty safe.

You could also put a large 'finger bowl' of any size, at your table or bench, that will allow you to soak the material and glass particles of your hands, as needed, and ALWAYS before moving to a smaller grit, it's no big deal.

It's not necessary to motorize the process, as an oscillating tool will generate dust and you don't want that!

Think of the possible consequences of having that dust on you sleeves/arms and other body areas, clothed or unclothed, ie. Tee Shirts and Shorts or no shirt in a too hot summer day or boiler room, that also might find you working them into your eyes, around kids and pets.

This stuff is not food grade subacious earth and it's also bad for your lungs and others.

Just for the fun of it, try using a Japanese grit of 8000 or one half mu first and go up from there, you might just find a usable glass faster, as the starting at the larger grit just breaks the plane of the surface glass, and those larger abrasive's scratches have to be removed by the smaller component grits, and there's no point in all that extra labor to get what you need.

IMO
 
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-chrille-

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Actually, there was no dust using the multi-tool as a grinder. I glued a piece of glass almost the same size as the 5x7 ground glass to a delta sanding pad. Just keep the grit wet all the time and the residue comes of like clay. It took about 15 min compared to almost 2 hours when grinding by hand😅
 

eli griggs

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So which gave the sharpest and brightest results when mounted on your cameras?
 

BobUK

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I have used lapidary grits that I happened to have, and also a couple of plastic syringes of diamond paste given to me.
The diamond paste was easily the quickest. Sorry I cannot remember the grades.

When materials were not so easy to find and buy, in the days before the internet, I used sheets of wet a dry carborundum paper as used for rubbing down car body work in preparation for spray painting.
They work fine. Cheap and available in most places.
The only drawbacks are you can only do one face at a time, and it's a bit slower.

With grits you can put the grit between two sheets of glass, then you get two frosted pieces of glass at the same time.

For grit I used a teaspoon of engine oil instead of water. Water tends to wash away too quickly.
 

eli griggs

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Joined
Nov 15, 2005
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3,848
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I have used lapidary grits that I happened to have, and also a couple of plastic syringes of diamond paste given to me.
The diamond paste was easily the quickest. Sorry I cannot remember the grades.

When materials were not so easy to find and buy, in the days before the internet, I used sheets of wet a dry carborundum paper as used for rubbing down car body work in preparation for spray painting.
They work fine. Cheap and available in most places.
The only drawbacks are you can only do one face at a time, and it's a bit slower.

With grits you can put the grit between two sheets of glass, then you get two frosted pieces of glass at the same time.

For grit I used a teaspoon of engine oil instead of water. Water tends to wash away too quickly.

For somewhat easier handling, a dish-suction cup designed for moving heavy paynes of glass or, a tiled shower wall safety grabber, with very positive locking design, featuring a duel cups design.

For small paynes of glass, the single cup type will be best.

IMO.
 
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