Neil Poulsen
Allowing Ads
- Joined
- May 28, 2005
- Messages
- 525
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- 4x5 Format
Rustoleum oil-base marine primer and then gloss white topside paint. I first faired the inside corners of the sink after priming with marine epoxy.Hi, did you just use the rustoleum primer and topside paint, or spar as first coat to seal it?
Nice Drew. As long as there are no sharp object incidents, that shower pan liner should hold up just fine.
I like this. As much as I want to build my own custom monstrosity, I can really see the practicality of a countertop. I can't recall seeing white laminate off the shelf recently, just horrible faux granite patterns.
My favourite detail is the sign at top leftHere’s another inexpensive approach. For my darkgarage sink, I converted a homemade 7-foot workbench by adding sidewalls from leftover 1x6 lumber, drilling an hole for a drain, and lining it with PVC shower pan liner. The exposed wood was painted with some leftover porch paint. The oak corner trim covers where the PVC liner is stapled along the upper edge and was finished with some leftover spar urethane from another project. My thinking is that if the liner needs to be replaced, I can remove the corner trim, pull the staples and drain, and replace the PVC liner. My cost for the liner, trim, and drain was just under $100. I later added a couple of shelves on the left side of the backsplash and picked up some plastic grid and PVC lattice strips to make a sort of inexpensive duckboard along the bottom.
Here’s another inexpensive approach. For my darkgarage sink, I converted a homemade 7-foot workbench by adding sidewalls from leftover 1x6 lumber, drilling an hole for a drain, and lining it with PVC shower pan liner. The exposed wood was painted with some leftover porch paint. The oak corner trim covers where the PVC liner is stapled along the upper edge and was finished with some leftover spar urethane from another project. My thinking is that if the liner needs to be replaced, I can remove the corner trim, pull the staples and drain, and replace the PVC liner. My cost for the liner, trim, and drain was just under $100. I later added a couple of shelves on the left side of the backsplash and picked up some plastic grid and PVC lattice strips to make a sort of inexpensive duckboard along the bottom.
Two 1 Gallon SS 8x10 Deep Tanks Combiplan System 10 Liter Deep Tanks 8x10 Kodak Siphon Wash by Nokton48, on Flickr
Two stainless steel 1 Gallon 8x10 Deep Tanks with Floating Lids. Complete Combiplan Mini-Basket Line 4x5, Two 10 Liter 8x10 Tanks plus Wash. Kodak Siphon and Patterson 11x14 good for washing RC prints. Looking forward to start using this more.
70mm Kodak Surveillance 60 exp ADOX Borax MQ 11 min 21C by Nokton48, on Flickr
60 exposures on one roll. 70mm Kodak Surveillance film about shot at about EI 250. ADOX BORAX MQ 11 1/2 mins 21C. Kindermann 70mm tank and reel WOW it's heavy. SSSLLLOOOWWW to fill and dump, you have to tilt the tank at a 45 to fill it or it just blows all over. And balance a one gallon brown glass bottle at the same time. Not fun! I cut these into strips of twelve to dry. Then into VueAll 70mm plastic print pages or those 120 pages from the UK also fit perfectly
Professor, I've posted some pictures to give an idea of what I'm talking about. I can't take credit for the idea-Gordon Hutchings (The Book of Pyro) had an article in Darkroom Photography about building a new darkroom. He built his sink and hauled it to Rhino Liner and had them coat it for him.
As the nearest Rhino Liner never answered 9-10 phone calls, I went looking for some other way to coat the sink. I found the Rustolum bed liner at Walmart and figured it'd work. Walmart doesn't seem to carry it any more, but Harbor Freight Tools has pretty much the same thing in their stores.
Any questions-PM me. Be glad to help.
If you are covering wood, polyester laminating resin with a final coat of finishing resin. Thin fiberglass cloth if you must. 50 years I think.Reviving this comment, how did the bed liner paint hold up over time???????
If you are covering wood, polyester laminating resin with a final coat of finishing resin. Thin fiberglass cloth if you must. 50 years I think.
Any 2 part epoxy including bedliner will be more expensive than regular paint but it isn't outrageous. I got mine on Amazon last time. I got by for several years with a latex coated tray sink made from scrap wood and the paint would soften with water contact but it worked. The last sink I made was about $200 as I used high quality wood, polyester resin and bought a laboratory faucet on ebay.So my issue has been that the epoxy that everyone recommends is too expensive for me at the moment. Doing it this way it seems it may be more affordable what laminating and finishing resin do you recommend? Is there any prep to the wood first?
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