Bronica GS-1: I got a problem

[Bruce Osgood]

First two roll went without a problem. 3'rd and fourth rolls are blank. No hint of image.

Camera performs as I think it should with all the sounds of mirror flap, film advance, cranking sounds, etc. The film advances to the take up reel I've been shooting almost all shots at Auto t0 get a feeling for accuracy of exposure and a few using a light meter. The little lights that show shutter and a dot to indicate it is ready are lit.

If the mirror lock up were engaged would that prevent an image from being recorded? I'm not sure where this one was set.

Thanks in advance,

 

[MattKing]

Where is the dark slide?

 

[Alan Gales]

Bruce, here is a copy of the instructions if you want to look at them. http://www.cameramanuals.org/bronica/bronica_gs-1.pdf

Just donate $3.00 to M. Butkus if you find it helpful.

 

[Bruce Osgood]

Matt -- Dark slide was in my pocket... and the lens cap.

Alan -- I have the Butkus down load and it is helpful. It got me to this point but I can't seem to figure this out.


I'm trying now to get a better understanding of the mirror lock up and multiple exposure button positions.

 

[StephenT]

Bruce, fire the camera with the body set on multiple exposure, dark slide out, observe the lens from the front and be sure the shutter in the lens is opening. Set the aperture to f8 and the shutter speed to 1 second so the opening shutter will be obvious. The problem may be with the lens.

Of course, be sure to clean the contacts between the lens and the body with some denatured alcohol or the equivalent.

Be sure the lens and body are cocked, darkslide in, dismount and remount the lens, just to be sure all contacts are mating.

Mirror lockup would not affect the exposure.

 

[itsdoable]

First, check the battery (I'm assuming you have, but that's always #1). The Seiko shutters use an electromagnet to arrest the leaves, if the batteries are low, the initial meter, mirror shutter trip circuits depress the voltage so the last operation (holding open the shutter) does not happen. But usually I find the AE display will go out before the shutter miss fires, and typical low battery (besides the display warnings) are occasional blank frames (not all).

A good check is to take the film back off, point the lens at a window, and look through the back when tripping the shutter to see if the shutter opens. If not, check with another lens. Look for oil on the shutter leaves, they may be stuck.

Mirror lock is really a "pre-release", flip the leaver down, the mirror releases. If you don't reset the leaver before you wind the body, the mirror will release again at the end of the wind. It should not affect the shutter release.

Multiple exposure decouples the wind mechanism to the film back. You cannot wind&release the shutter if there is no film in the back, unless the multiple exposure is enabled.

 

[Maris]

First two roll went without a problem. 3'rd and fourth rolls are blank. No hint of image......

How blank? If there are no frame numbers then there is a processing fault not a camera fault. And another way of getting blank film with a Bronica GS-1 is to load the film backward; backing paper facing the lens. It's only happened once with my Bronica GS-1 and only once with my Mamiya RB67; disappointing but educational both times.

 

[Bruce Osgood]

How blank?

REAL BLANK I mean there are no numbers, just of long sheet of gray, end to end. And yes, I believe I could have loaded the film canister up side down, putting the backing at the front. If any of you were born right handed say a little prayer each night.

itsdoable: The lithium battery is new. I've used it a lot but I don't think it is weak after a few days. The lights seem to work ok. I tried your suggested test looking at the leafs as they work and they do appear clear and work effortlessly.

StephenT: Very interesting, cleaning the contacts made an improvement. I am thinking now there is a lot going on with this camera but It'll get worked out.

Thanks everyone, tomorrow I will try again and let you know.

 

[ozphoto]

No numbers - any chance it was fixed first by mistake? Even unexposed film would have numbers on the edge.
Just putting it out there as another option, in case everything else gives you the thumbs up as all ok.

 

[MattKing]

If there are no numbers, then it is a developing problem.

 

[250swb]

REAL BLANK I mean there are no numbers, just of long sheet of gray, end to end. And yes, I believe I could have loaded the film canister up side down, putting the backing at the front. If any of you were born right handed say a little prayer each night.

100% a processing fault. I think you missed the significance of 'no numbers' Bruce, they are pre flashed onto the film during manufacture and nothing to do with camera exposure, so if for instance you process an unexposed roll of film you should still have the frame numbers. The only way to have them absent is not to develop them, so perhaps water instead of developer or fix before developer.

Steve

 

[Bruce Osgood]

100% a processing fault

Below is my first print from a properly exposed and developed roll of Delta 400 @ 400. D-76 1+1 for 14:30 Inversion. The print has no dodging or burning, nor Photoshop manipulations. It is a straight scan of the 8x10 print.

I'm not offering it as a great picture but a sample what can happen when you change developers: From nothing to something.