Broken Nova Processor acrylic divider

[Aidrian Long]

Hi I have a 4 slot nova print processor. Unfortunately a piece one of the acrylic dividers has broken off. Is it possible to remove the divider & replace it or to glue back together once removed? I’m not sure if it’s possible to take out the remainder of the divider from the processor. Any help would be gratefully received.
Ade

 

[Lachlan Young]

Can't help on the repairability front, but the component is made from an acrylic prismatic diffusion material

 

[Aidrian Long]

Can't help on the repairability front, but the component is made from an acrylic prismatic diffusion material

Hi Lachlan thanks for replying to my post. Do you have this model or have you had it in the past ?

 

[Pieter12]

How ever did that break? Was it dropped? I can't tell which model you have, but it looks similar to the Monochrome I have. I think the acrylic divider is a single piece, formed like a "VVV" and it looks like it would be difficult to access to bond it back together. In other words, it's toast. You could try contacting Nova.

 

[pentaxuser]

it looks like it would be difficult to access to bond it back together. In other words, it's toast. You could try contacting Nova.

The piece looks to still be an exact fit i.e. it isn't splintered so if there is a "glue that sticks such material it should be possible. At this height and on one side only I would not have thought that the load bearing strength needs to be that much

Nova might well be able to advise on a suitable glue but there may yet be users here who have experience of Nova repairs

pentaxuser

 

[pentaxuser]

Aidrian, nearly 6 years ago a member on my other forum called FADU( film and darkroom user) repaired a crack in a Nova. So it wasn't a break like yours but there would seem to be no reason why the same glue called Tensol 12 should not work.

If you live in the only Lombardstown I can find you are only over the border in the Republic so obtaining Tensol 12 might be easy. The big problem arises when trying to give advice on the right glue from across the Atlantic

As of that time, nearly 6 years ago Nova apparently sold an acrylic cement for repairing Nova Slot processsors

Here's hoping that all will be well

pentaxuser

 

[Aidrian Long]

How ever did that break? Was it dropped? I can't tell which model you have, but it looks similar to the Monochrome I have. I think the acrylic divider is a single piece, formed like a "VVV" and it looks like it would be difficult to access to bond it back together. In other words, it's toast. You could try contacting Nova.

It happened during shipping unfortunately. They’re difficult to come-by so I’m trying to see if I can make it functional so I won’t have to return it.

 

[Aidrian Long]

Aidrian, nearly 6 years ago a member on my other forum called FADU( film and darkroom user) repaired a crack in a Nova. So it wasn't a break like yours but there would seem to be no reason why the same glue called Tensol 12 should not work.

If you live in the only Lombardstown I can find you are only over the border in the Republic so obtaining Tensol 12 might be easy. The big problem arises when trying to give advice on the right glue from across the Atlantic

As of that time, nearly 6 years ago Nova apparently sold an acrylic cement for repairing Nova Slot processsors

Here's hoping that all will be well

pentaxuser

I actually bought some new taps for it & I saw that they sold the cement you mentioned. It’s a company in the uk. Because it has 4 slots I can still process prints in it. It’s an older model so you can’t regulate the temperature. It has a little button that seems to be just a on/off dial. The seller has been very good about it. I just need to decide to return it or not. Thanks for your help

 

[Lachlan Young]

Hi Lachlan thanks for replying to my post. Do you have this model or have you had it in the past ?

Not that specific model, but I'm familiar with Nova's darkroom kit. They're made from pretty standard acrylic parts that are machined and formed - the problem is that that part looks like it's been formed to a very specific shape from a single sheet & then solvent welded into place. If you can find a suitable solvent & gain access to the entirety of the joint, a repair may be feasible. Taking the device apart is likely nigh on impossible.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I bought a used 16"x20" print washer that had a broken plastic divider and missing dividers. I took the broken divider and a complete divider to a plastic store and the made replacement dividers for me and it was not expensive.

 

[Pieter12]

I bought a used 16"x20" print washer that had a broken plastic divider and missing dividers. I took the broken divider and a complete divider to a plastic store and the made replacement dividers for me and it was not expensive.

The Nova uses formed and textured acrylic dividers and is totally solvent-welded together. Not as straightforward to repair as a print washer.

 

[BMbikerider]

I would say without more information the answer has to be no. My 3 bath 12 x 16 developed a leak in one external corner of the blix slot and I tried to repair this and failed. I spoke to the tech people at the Imaging Warehouse, AKA NOVA and they advised me the only way to ensure a seal once it has failed is to use the same adhesive they employ when making them. It isn't cheap for what it is but that was the end of the leak.

The adhesive they use is a two pack clear adhesive, which must be employed on an absolutely clean and totally dry surface and takes at least 48 hours to 'go off'. If the surface isn't absolutely clean and dry it won't work. Silicone Bath sealer won't work either (as I found out) because it doesn't bond fully and the liquid inside the tank will seep underneath. Neither will epoxy resin adhesive for the same reason.

If you try to split open the processor, the base, ends and sides (also presumably the internal dividers) sit in shallow grooves machined into the outer base and ends. You will not be able to break these away without damaging the processor completely. For that reason NOVA do not offer a repair service. Sorry that's the way it is.

 

[Aidrian Long]

Not that specific model, but I'm familiar with Nova's darkroom kit. They're made from pretty standard acrylic parts that are machined and formed - the problem is that that part looks like it's been formed to a very specific shape from a single sheet & then solvent welded into place. If you can find a suitable solvent & gain access to the entirety of the joint, a repair may be feasible. Taking the device apart is likely nigh on impossible.

Thanks Lachlan the break is high enough to join them. I might try seeing if a tape can be used as a clamp while the cement hardened. It’s very narrow to use a clamp.

 

[Pieter12]

Thanks Lachlan the break is high enough to join them. I might try seeing if a tape can be used as a clamp while the cement hardened. It’s very narrow to use a clamp.

The acrylic welding solvent I have used in the past (not on a Nova) basically dissolves the materials little bit to form a fused, welded joint. The solvent is quite thin and runny and works very fast (and needs to be used in a well-ventilated area). Clamping is minimal.

 

[reddesert]

Years ago when in school I made a simple slot processor using sheets of acrylic I got from a plastics store and the appropriate cement, also from the plastics store. Other glues are unlikely to work. The cement is really a solvent, as described by Pieter12. The issue is, the solvent is methylene chloride, which is pretty nasty stuff. It won't kill you to look at it - it's not rat poison, but it is an irritant and carcinogen, and is more highly regulated now. In the US, TAP Plastics still sells it as acrylic cement but "for industrial use only." From the data sheet, Tensol 12 also contains methylene chloride. If you use it, use it outside, and if you have to dispose of the excess, do so in accordance with local waste regulations.

 

[Lachlan Young]

The acrylic welding solvent I have used in the past (not on a Nova) basically dissolves the materials little bit to form a fused, welded joint. The solvent is quite thin and runny and works very fast (and needs to be used in a well-ventilated area). Clamping is minimal.

Yeah, that's the blessing/ curse with acrylic solvent - you need the parts in close contact & to introduce the solvent directly so it's sucked into the joint via surface tension - which will be tricky in the space available.

 

[Aidrian Long]

The piece looks to still be an exact fit i.e. it isn't splintered so if there is a "glue that sticks such material it should be possible. At this height and on one side only I would not have thought that the load bearing strength needs to be that much

Nova might well be able to advise on a suitable glue but there may yet be users here who have experience of Nova repairs

pentaxuser

Hi thanks for your comments. There is a bonding cement as mentioned in other post that will do the job. I’ll order it & hopefully that will do the job

 

[Aidrian Long]

Hi thanks for your comments. There is a bonding cement as mentioned in other post that will do the job. I’ll order it & hopefully that will do the job

 

[Aidrian Long]

Aidrian, nearly 6 years ago a member on my other forum called FADU( film and darkroom user) repaired a crack in a Nova. So it wasn't a break like yours but there would seem to be no reason why the same glue called Tensol 12 should not work.

If you live in the only Lombardstown I can find you are only over the border in the Republic so obtaining Tensol 12 might be easy. The big problem arises when trying to give advice on the right glue from across the Atlantic

As of that time, nearly 6 years ago Nova apparently sold an acrylic cement for repairing Nova Slot processsors

Here's hoping that all will be well

pentaxuser

Hi yes I’ve contacted the supplier of the cement. Thanks for your reply

 

[Aidrian Long]

I would say without more information the answer has to be no. My 3 bath 12 x 16 developed a leak in one external corner of the blix slot and I tried to repair this and failed. I spoke to the tech people at the Imaging Warehouse, AKA NOVA and they advised me the only way to ensure a seal once it has failed is to use the same adhesive they employ when making them. It isn't cheap for what it is but that was the end of the leak.

The adhesive they use is a two pack clear adhesive, which must be employed on an absolutely clean and totally dry surface and takes at least 48 hours to 'go off'. If the surface isn't absolutely clean and dry it won't work. Silicone Bath sealer won't work either (as I found out) because it doesn't bond fully and the liquid inside the tank will seep underneath. Neither will epoxy resin adhesive for the same reason.

If you try to split open the processor, the base, ends and sides (also presumably the internal dividers) sit in shallow grooves machined into the outer base and ends. You will not be able to break these away without damaging the processor completely. For that reason NOVA do not offer a repair service. Sorry that's the way it is.

Hi thanks for your reply I’ve contacted the company to advise on the correct cement. The one I have has a lot of stains from the chemicals, have you attempted to clean the slots & if so what did you use ? Thanks again Ade

 

[BMbikerider]

I did not clean the inside of the tank simply because that is almost impossible but to dry it out I placed it on top of a radiator in a spare bedroom for 3 or 4 days (The rest of the processor was empty of course.)
Then following their instructions I cleaned the site of the leak using 400 grit abrasive paper used by car body sprayers and ensured the surface of the leak and for the full length of the seam was rough with a 'key to hold the cement. I then cleaned it using Isopropyl alcohol several times to make sure there was no grease and to remove any loose bits of acrylic that were taken off when I was sanding it down.

The kit with the cement comes in two parts, one the sealant and the other the activator. They must be mixed in the proportions they suggest in a small plastic tub that is provided and then it can be poured into a syringe also provided. Then in one continuous slow movement work back along from the where the damage is right to the end, then just leave it. It will take up to 48hours for it the harden so don't be tempted to see if it is hard.

 

[pentaxuser]

Hopefully this kind of a problem will not happen to me but just in case, what is best tool to make the key? I take it you use the syringe like a sealant gun on top of the keyed and cleaned surface then attach the part that is broken off? Given where the broken part fits to the rest it would seem working out how to hold it into position and keeping it there for long enough for the cement to set would be the main problem.

I take it that simply holding it in position by your hands for say 5 mins is not enough?

Thanks

pentaxuser

 

[Aidrian Long]

I was wondering the same thing. They do sell another product that apparently sets very quickly by melting both to make a very strong joint. I’m hoping it’s this product that I can use because as you mentioned trying to clamp both pieces together in such a tight space will be difficult

 

[pentaxuser]

I was wondering the same thing. They do sell another product that apparently sets very quickly by melting both to make a very strong joint. I’m hoping it’s this product that I can use because as you mentioned trying to clamp both pieces together in such a tight space will be difficult

Yes some cements may take 48 hours to set enough to make the repair sound but in cases like yours or anyone else that has a broken top to one of the slits holding it together for say 10 mins might be enough to allow it to set enough to allow time to do the rest. Even the superglues that only require pressing for about 45 seconds require maybe 24 hours to become sound.

Here's hoping

pentaxuser

 

[DREW WILEY]

Solvent welding acrylic is super easy. Any plastics store has the right products. And reasonably good substitute glues can be found in any hardware store, but don't include "super glues" or caulks. Multi-purpose plumbing plastic solvent adhesive would work. I've done it hundreds of times.