Big prints in a very small darkroom

[Steve Goldstein]

My darkroom is in a small converted bathroom. The enlarger sits on a custom-made table that slips down over the toilet, and I can just fit four 11x14 trays (dual fixing baths) onto a board that covers the two vanity sinks. My 11x14 holding tray sits on the toilet seat under the enlarger table, and the print washer occupies the shower stall. Things are tight but workable as long as it's just me in there.

Someone important to me (my wife) asked if I could print a particular image as a 16x20. I figure I can get into the game for maybe $150 for some trays and a 10-pack of paper from B&H. I got a Saunders 16x20 single-size easel some time ago for small money, and I can fit it under my enlarger with a couple of inches to spare. But I'm flummoxed by how to manage the logistics in my very small space. Any suggestions?

And do you guys printing large still use tongs or is paper this big and heavy (when wet) better handled with gloved hands?

 

[markbarendt]

I use a JOBO tank instead of trays.

 

[Oxleyroad]

Any chance of see sawing the paper on the diagonal in your trays?

 

[paul_c5x4]

Is there another room you could hijack one dark evening ?

If you are struggling for space with 11x14 trays now, you are going to have real problems with 20x24 trays - If nothing else, they will be very heavy once full of chemicals.

As for tongs, I personally do not use them even with small prints. Gloves reduce the risk of damaging the paper.

 

[MartinP]

You could use one tray and several large containers of chemicals which are poured-in / emptied-out in turn. This will need a rigid tray, or a normal 'wobbly' tray on a rigid board, to simplify emptying the tray without sploshing liquids everywhere.

There is relatively large chemical carry-over between trays using this method, so the stop and fixer will have shorter lives than usual while the developer will 'disappear' and probably need topping up.

 

[wildbill]

tray stacker
or 1 tray using the fill/dump method

 

[Steve Goldstein]

Some interesting ideas, thank you. I knew you guys would come through.

Andy, I love your see-saw suggestion! I have a few 12x16 trays (impulse purchase at a camera show a few years ago) that would be a little easier to use than working on the diagonal with 11x14 trays. Space would still be an issue, but much less so than with 16x20 trays - if I used a single fixing bath that would pretty much take care of it. And I wouldn't have to buy 16x20 trays, or find a place to store them.

To Paul's point, I could probably set my trays in the windowless laundry room for one night and transport the exposed paper in its box before processing, and back for washing in a tray. I'm sure I can get approval since the project is by definition wife-approved.

So I've probably got two workable solutions, neither of which require new equipment. I like that!

 

[Todd Barlow]

Hi Steve:

Have a look at this site. It shows his DIY tray ladder that may be of use for a smaller space.

All the best

Todd

Dead Link Removed

 

[AgX]

Another aopproach would be vertical slit-tanks.

 

[ChuckP]

This is an often mentioned description of single tray processing: http://www.heylloyd.com/technicl/single.htm

 

[bvy]

I also work in a small bathroom. I use a 16x20 print drum on a Unicolor motor base for 16x20 prints. I can do all the processing in room light. The biggest challenge is maneuvering the large print into the drum in complete darkness without damaging the paper. But that's color paper. For black and white, it should be easier since you can work under a safelight. Also, most black and white paper is thicker than Fuji Crystal Archive color paper.

 

[jeffreyg]

I second the tray stacker suggestion. I have two tray stackers and you can use six 16x20 trays in a footprint of not too much more than two trays. My sink is 72in x 28in and with the stackers it can hold up to six trays.

http://www.jeffreyglasser.com/

 

[John51]

If you don't mind being messy, lay the exposed paper on the floor and gently but quickly wipe the paper all over with a Tee shirt (or similar cotton rag) well soaked with the relevant chemical. Keep the rag soaked. Each chem gets its own rag. Fresh rapid fixer will only need 60 seconds iirc. When done, into the bath to get washed by the shower head.

I used to do this on an enameled metal kitchen table for 20x16. Works fine but it might take a sheet or 2 to get the time/technique down.

 

[MattKing]

I also work in a small bathroom. I use a 16x20 print drum on a Unicolor motor base for 16x20 prints. I can do all the processing in room light. The biggest challenge is maneuvering the large print into the drum in complete darkness without damaging the paper. But that's color paper. For black and white, it should be easier since you can work under a safelight. Also, most black and white paper is thicker than Fuji Crystal Archive color paper.

This works great.

You can also re-purpose 21 inch lengths of 6" plastic pipe and 24" seed trays.

 

[cliveh]

If you work in a bathroom, why not use the bath or shower tray as a processing and holding (wash/stop) point?

 

[john_s]

This oldish website might be interesting:

http://heylloyd.com/technicl/technicl.html

and go to "Single Tray Processing."

Also have a look at his portraits.


I have done very large prints (40inch roll paper) using a home made tray (wood, plywood and plastic sheet liner) that worked fine.

 

[Paul Howell]

I also work in a small bathroom. I use a 16x20 print drum on a Unicolor motor base for 16x20 prints. I can do all the processing in room light. The biggest challenge is maneuvering the large print into the drum in complete darkness without damaging the paper. But that's color paper. For black and white, it should be easier since you can work under a safelight. Also, most black and white paper is thicker than Fuji Crystal Archive color paper.

I also use a 16X20 print drum, but you need to use RC, fiber paper once wet has a tendency to collapse.

 

[Mainecoonmaniac]

Beseler also has a 16x20 version.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Color-Besel...154384?hash=item25b4165cd0:g:A1MAAOSwa-dWhwM2

 

[wildbill]

I also use a 16X20 print drum, but you need to use RC, fiber paper once wet has a tendency to collapse.

I know of several guys who do fiber prints this way. Ilford papers seem to work well.

 

[M Carter]

If you end up going with trays, check eBay first. Very often there are great deals on trays. Last summer I got a 6" deep 20x24, 3 normal 20x's, 4 16x20's, and 3 11x14 deep trays for about $60 including shipping. That's about 1 16x20 from adorama or B&H.

Keep in mind that at any size, oversized trays are a big plus - I have several 11x14 trays that are almost exactly 11x14 - pain in the butt to get paper out of 'em - who thought THAT was a good idea? My Cesco-Lites are labeled 11x14 but they're really about 12.5 x 15 which makes a world of difference to me.

And for big prints, flat-bottom trays use less chemistry if you're pinching pennies. For toning or bleaching big prints, I like the flat bottoms.

 

[zonephoto]

I have my darkroom in an 8x6 laundry room with my sink being the full 8' by 27". With this I can fit 3 16x20 trays and an archival print washer. I wouldn't try to print 16x20 in any smaller of a room. As for tongs, yes I always use tongs and have a separate pair for each chemical. Gloves risk cross contamination and leaving marks on the edges (I've had it happen where I've gotten brown finger prints on edges because I still had chemical on the gloves when handling the paper and moving from tray to tray).


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[mgb74]

If the print drum is not viable and assuming you don't plan to do 16x20 often, I'd use these cement mixing tubs. I'd get 4: developer, stop, fixer, wash. Stack the developer and stop in the shower stall. Then the vanity top for fixer and temporary 'holding wash". Then transfer to shower stall at end of printing for proper wash.

Their height should make it less likely to splash chemicals or water outside the tub.

 

[Steve Goldstein]

Those mixing tubs are even bigger than 16x20 trays, but the price is certainly right. My request to use the laundry room for this project has been approved and I think I'm going to go with the see-saw method in my 16x20 trays. All I'll have to buy is paper and mounting tissue.

 

[paul_c5x4]

Gloves risk cross contamination and leaving marks on the edges (I've had it happen where I've gotten brown finger prints on edges because I still had chemical on the gloves when handling the paper and moving from tray to tray)

Fresh gloves each time you pick up a new sheet of paper is the best way to avoid cross contamination - Compared to the cost of paper (especially large sheets), the cost of a glove is minimal.

 

[Steve Goldstein]

Following up on my original post...

I just managed to fit three 12x16 Paterson trays and one 16x20 Kaiser (?? - circled K in the bottom) tray on the plywood sheet covering the vanity sinks by raising up the 16x20 tray with short pieces of 2x4 (a US construction lumber size) underneath so it could overhang the third "small" tray. Development, stop, and first fix were by see-saw as Oxleyroad suggested, second fix used the 16x20 tray. Another 16x20 tray on the floor of the shower held wash aid, and right next to it was my flat Kostiner wash tray that holds one 16x20 print; the rolling rack with the Versalab 11x14 washer and the paper safes on top was in back. It was slow going, requiring thoughtful and deliberate movement to avoid chemical floods and other mishaps, but there are now two prints on the drying screen and a bunch of nitrile gloves in the trash.

Thanks for the suggestions everyone.