Ready for some tripod heresy? Here goes:
Get the lightest tripod you can that will do the job (i.e., support the camera without being flimsy or collapsing). You'll use it more. Unless you're working in a windstorm or an earthquake, lighter is better. Stability just means your tripod and camera have to be motionless for whatever time you need for the exposure. Bring a bag to fill with rocks when extra stability is needed.
Am I the only one here who hates quick-release plates and locking systems? The plates are a PITA attached to the cameras and get lost if you remove and store them somewhere. I've caught a camera on its way to the ground more than once from 1) quick releases releasing when the shouldn't 2) accidentally actuating the release lever when I didn't want to. I don't think they save that much time, either. I can mount my 4x5 camera onto my tripod head in 10 seconds flat; that's fast enough.
You don't have to obsess over leveling the tripod if you have a good 3-way head that you can level things with later. Just make sure you don't have the center of gravity of the whole set-up in an unstable place. It's so much faster leveling the camera with the tripod head than fiddling with tripod leg locks, sliding legs in-and-out over and over to get things level.
More tips:
Tripods with legs that have provision for changing the angle are much more useful in the field. Manfrotto 3-position legs are an example. In practice, I could have one leg in each of the three possible positions; one on the ground, one out to the side more on a rock or similar and one almost horizontally extended, resting on a tree trunk or cliff face.
Three times I've had lock knobs rattle off and get lost when transporting my tripods in rough terrain or on my bicycle carrier, regardless of how tightly I though they were locked. I now carry spares, as well as spares for my leg lock knobs.
Find your exact camera position before you set up your tripod. Close one eye, walk back and forth, do a deep knee bend, whatever you need. Then set up the tripod with the platform under your chin. I rarely need to pick up my tripod and move it and the camera around after setting up.
When on uneven ground, extend the tripod leg that needs to be longest first. Plant that in its place and then extend the other legs, while keeping the tripod eyeball-level, to their respective positions.
When mounting your camera (without the pesky quick-release plate!), flip the platform up 90° so it's perpendicular. Then you can easily mount the camera and then return it to it's horizontal position.
Don't get lax about tightening lock knobs well. Re-check them all before making the exposure (especially the pan lock on the tripod head if you use LF and are inserting filmholders).
When going around to the front of the camera, e.g., to mount filters or, for us LFrs, to make aperture/shutter-speed settings, watch your feet. That way, you won't kick a tripod leg inadvertently and have to start everything over.
It defeats using a tripod if you don't use a cable release (or self-timer). And, learn good shutter-release technique with your cable release too.
I see people carrying their tripod with camera mounted all the time. While this makes for quicker set up, and might even be advantageous for smaller cameras, with 4x5 and larger it's asking for trouble. Unless I'm only moving a short distance, I pack up everything. It's too easy to get expensive things snarled up in branches or whack them on a tree trunk or whatever otherwise.
I've covered the upper segments of all my metal tripod legs with foam pipe insulation. Really nice in both hot and cold weather.
When packing things back into your car after a long day (or more) of hiking and photographing, especially when you are dead tired, double check to make sure your tripod is actually in the vehicle (don't ask me how I know this
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Best,
Doremus