I'm fixing to disassemble several old Nikon F's to do a good cleaning and lubrication. What would be the proper oil for this kind of work? I have some clock oil, but I have a feeling this would need watch oil, if there's any significant difference. Or perhaps there's something even better. I want to do this work the right way and use the CORRECT oil A lot of his work is very tiny, so what would be best for an applicator, a hypodermic syringe? Some of this work is so detailed, saying units of measure like "one drop" would be a tidal wave of excess oil. Thank you.
Best oil for 35mm camera service?
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Good tool for applying oil-
www.watchmaterial.com
Actual oil to use varies on who you talk to. A nice place to start is Nyeoil.
www.micro-tools.com
I am certain that someone will come along and tell you why either or both items I mention are crap and hack. Welcome to camera repair.
Oh, for holding oil while working-
www.esslinger.com
Naphtha for cleaning, by the way. If you can't buy it in your state, see if it can be shipped in. Or take a trip to Alabama. Alabama doesn't give a cr** about health and such.
Bergeon® 30102-4 Watch Oiler Dip Sticks - Set of 4
Bergeon 30102-4 Set of 4 oilers used for lucubrating watch movements and fine parts. Popular oiler set with the most used oiling sticks yellow, green, blue and red. Swiss made. Shop watchmaterial.com
www.watchmaterial.com
Actual oil to use varies on who you talk to. A nice place to start is Nyeoil.
Lubricant, Oil, Shutter 100gram
Lubricant, Oil, Shutter 100gram. NYOILIs a clear, odorless oil for lubricating, polishing, cleaning, and preventing rust. Formulated nearly 100 years ago, it remains the most highly refined oil ever produced. Applications: NyOil works great on cameras, roller blades, fitness equipment, locks...
www.micro-tools.com
I am certain that someone will come along and tell you why either or both items I mention are crap and hack. Welcome to camera repair.
Oh, for holding oil while working-
Plastic Watch Oil Cup 3 in 1
Stop wasting oil and time with the durable plastic watch oil cup, sized with three different oil holders in one handy cup.
Naphtha for cleaning, by the way. If you can't buy it in your state, see if it can be shipped in. Or take a trip to Alabama. Alabama doesn't give a cr** about health and such.
I agree with Dan ... though it is not easy to get Nyoil here in Canada. A friend of mine gave me a bottle of Moebius 8000 and I use a needle to apply.
I use Nyoil, applied with a needle. It appears to be a popular choice 
There is no one size fits all solution. There are different conditions and purposes. The more knowledge you can gain the better.
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I don't use watch oils, because (1) they can be quite expensive (2) they often have expiry dates and (3) I have no idea how similar they might be to the original factory lubricants.
I use these:
https://www.esslinger.com/neoval-rubin-g-8-swiss-high-tech-oil/
How it compares to other people's choices, I have no idea. Relatively cheap, seems stable, and for camera and clock repair, it's a generous supply.
Another favorite is Molykote G-N, particularly for metal-on-metal, where there might be a good deal of pressure at the point of contact. But sometimes also a lifesaver as a dilute wash, sometimes mixed with aforementioned Neoval Rubin G8. Cool thing about Molykote is that even if the carrier oil dries out, the molybdenum and graphite continue to provide lubrication. Have discovered that dilute washes of the stuff can work surprisingly well in applications where I would normally not expect it, like speed escapements and self-timers. And when properly applied, the assembly might not appear to be lubricated at all. A single small tube might last for decades.
Clear polyethylene grease (hardware store). Sometimes Molykote alone does not give me the smoothest possible feel in applications like film advance mechanisms, and that's where the clear grease comes in. Was amazed to discover that Kiev 88/Salyut wind action can in fact feel buttery-smooth.
Japan Hobby Tool lens helicoid grease: They offer several viscosities, and I've used #30 with some success, but it's quite light, does seem to separate, and I'm not 100% sold on it yet. In some instances, the aforementioned polyethylene grease seemed to work better, else I needed to add a small amount of Molykote for smoothest action.
Random factoid: I had a sewing machine specialist warn me that if I had Singer sewing machine oil in the green and white can, I should throw it away. I don't recall the explanation, but his recommended replacement was a water-clear oil, not amber colored. I previously used the older oil on my mom's grandfather clock, and recall needing to redo it every year or so, so maybe it was simply past it's sell-by date.
I use these:
https://www.esslinger.com/neoval-rubin-g-8-swiss-high-tech-oil/
How it compares to other people's choices, I have no idea. Relatively cheap, seems stable, and for camera and clock repair, it's a generous supply.
Another favorite is Molykote G-N, particularly for metal-on-metal, where there might be a good deal of pressure at the point of contact. But sometimes also a lifesaver as a dilute wash, sometimes mixed with aforementioned Neoval Rubin G8. Cool thing about Molykote is that even if the carrier oil dries out, the molybdenum and graphite continue to provide lubrication. Have discovered that dilute washes of the stuff can work surprisingly well in applications where I would normally not expect it, like speed escapements and self-timers. And when properly applied, the assembly might not appear to be lubricated at all. A single small tube might last for decades.
Clear polyethylene grease (hardware store). Sometimes Molykote alone does not give me the smoothest possible feel in applications like film advance mechanisms, and that's where the clear grease comes in. Was amazed to discover that Kiev 88/Salyut wind action can in fact feel buttery-smooth.
Japan Hobby Tool lens helicoid grease: They offer several viscosities, and I've used #30 with some success, but it's quite light, does seem to separate, and I'm not 100% sold on it yet. In some instances, the aforementioned polyethylene grease seemed to work better, else I needed to add a small amount of Molykote for smoothest action.
Random factoid: I had a sewing machine specialist warn me that if I had Singer sewing machine oil in the green and white can, I should throw it away. I don't recall the explanation, but his recommended replacement was a water-clear oil, not amber colored. I previously used the older oil on my mom's grandfather clock, and recall needing to redo it every year or so, so maybe it was simply past it's sell-by date.
Last edited:
Good tool for applying oil-
Bergeon® 30102-4 Watch Oiler Dip Sticks - Set of 4
Bergeon 30102-4 Set of 4 oilers used for lucubrating watch movements and fine parts. Popular oiler set with the most used oiling sticks yellow, green, blue and red. Swiss made. Shop watchmaterial.com
Actual oil to use varies on who you talk to. A nice place to start is Nyeoil.
Lubricant, Oil, Shutter 100gram
Lubricant, Oil, Shutter 100gram. NYOILIs a clear, odorless oil for lubricating, polishing, cleaning, and preventing rust. Formulated nearly 100 years ago, it remains the most highly refined oil ever produced. Applications: NyOil works great on cameras, roller blades, fitness equipment, locks...
I am certain that someone will come along and tell you why either or both items I mention are crap and hack. Welcome to camera repair.
I'm not one of those people.
Nyoil fixed the aperture control on both my Nikon F4s.
First choice!
I m the original poster. How do these watch oiler sets work? Do you fill them up with oil?Are they gravity fed, or pressure fed by squeezing the handle or something? They come in sets of 4, but like all fancy sets, only one normally gets used. I ask these questions because I'd like to graduate from using automatic transmission fluid and toothpicks or extra fine paint brushes.
Simply dip it into the oil and apply it to the desired area, such as an axis.
The oiler sets have applicators of various sizes. The oil sticks to the tip of the needle. This allows for precise work.
Here, I'm using the largest applicator on the aperture control of a Nikon F4:
Post in thread 'Nikon F4: Mission Aperture Lever - two ways to fix the aperture problem'
https://www.photrio.com/forum/threa...-fix-the-aperture-problem.205433/post-2781428
Search YouTube for video on how to use them. Simply dipping works but there are nuances that help control to amount of oil picked up and placed, dip angle and withdrawal speed. These might be more important on watches where the pivots are much smaller but good to know to avoid frustration while learning to use. The difference between these and paint brushes or toothpicks is control of oil quantity and more accurate placement, both of which reduce the likelihood of oil migration.
I took care of my oil and dispenser question today and consider the matter settled. Tractor Supply to the rescue. A 12ml syringe and a 20 gauge needle, which makes me very glad I'm not a cow or chicken. What a harpoon. But it is quite stubborn drawing up oil. Even the synthetic Ebay oil for clocks. And I can make it dispense it in drops requiring a fine magnifier to see. Once again proving the internet is where a fool and his money can be quickly parted buying "specialized" tools and supplies, and being 20 and 30 dollared to death on every need. I guess this is where I graduate from toothpicks, extra fine artist brushes and transmission fluid, which always served me quite well. The whole object is getting your oil where you want it, in a quantity so as to not migrate, and being thin enough of viscosity to not be glue. An improperly lubricated camera can easily be practically glued into not working by a lousy lube job. Too bad baby chicks only stay that way for a week or I'd have bought one also. They're cute, but you can't buy everything.
Nicholas Lindan
Advertiser
The rubber bung at the end of the syringe plunger may absorb the oil and turn to goo. My solution is to only put a wee bit of oil in the syringe thus making cleaning the syringe easier. Sometimes I just toss the syringe. I bought a box of 100 10ml/20ga veterinary syringes on ebay for $10 or so. Add a bit more money for a handful of dispensing needles that end without a point, safer that way.
My feeling with Nikons is that they don't want any of those sissy lubricants. They want an oil that will see them through a war. An oil that will shrug off a bullet.
That said, I'm a fan of automotive lubricants. They don't dry to a solid lump or gum up. They withstand any pressure a camera can throw at them. ATF, Mobil 1 or SAE 5W oils will work to 40 below if you like going out in the winter. SAE 30 is my general purpose 'go to' oil. The problem with ATF is that it will flow and coat everything around it. I know of a man who mixes ATF with STP and thinks it is just the ticket.
Singer sewing machine oil, some gun oils and, of course, WD40 & Co. are best avoided. They will all turn to goo with time. WD40 and the gun oils are meant to creap into the pores in the metal and then solidify, thus forming a rust resistant coating. Sort of like oiling a frying pan. What the deal is with the Singer oil I haven't a clue but it sure turns sticky.
I have vials of Nye oils dating to the mid 80's. They show no signs of gumming up. They may be made from whale oil for all I know. I ignore them.
My go-to lube for helicoids is Corning Vacuum Grease. It stays put where you put it. It does not throw oil. It doesn't get stiff with age. I have a vial from my father that he dated in 1965. I bought a new vial and I can't tell the difference between the two. Mobil synthetic automotive grease may be vacuum grease's equal, I have a tube of it and it hasn't thrown any oil in a decade.
My feeling with Nikons is that they don't want any of those sissy lubricants. They want an oil that will see them through a war. An oil that will shrug off a bullet.
That said, I'm a fan of automotive lubricants. They don't dry to a solid lump or gum up. They withstand any pressure a camera can throw at them. ATF, Mobil 1 or SAE 5W oils will work to 40 below if you like going out in the winter. SAE 30 is my general purpose 'go to' oil. The problem with ATF is that it will flow and coat everything around it. I know of a man who mixes ATF with STP and thinks it is just the ticket.
Singer sewing machine oil, some gun oils and, of course, WD40 & Co. are best avoided. They will all turn to goo with time. WD40 and the gun oils are meant to creap into the pores in the metal and then solidify, thus forming a rust resistant coating. Sort of like oiling a frying pan. What the deal is with the Singer oil I haven't a clue but it sure turns sticky.
I have vials of Nye oils dating to the mid 80's. They show no signs of gumming up. They may be made from whale oil for all I know. I ignore them.
My go-to lube for helicoids is Corning Vacuum Grease. It stays put where you put it. It does not throw oil. It doesn't get stiff with age. I have a vial from my father that he dated in 1965. I bought a new vial and I can't tell the difference between the two. Mobil synthetic automotive grease may be vacuum grease's equal, I have a tube of it and it hasn't thrown any oil in a decade.
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There’s more than one way in terms of means and materials…
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