Best light meter option for low light and cold weather

[eli griggs]

The one pictured above, has the zone scale, just no a sticker or printout showing the graduations of the zone system scale, glued in place.

Buy the way, this meter, like the non-battery Luna Pro, takes the same darkroom meter attachment, the 7.5 - 15 degree attachment, and several other attachments that made the leap to the Luna Pro F, and they do work well., but seeing that 1degree spot sure makes me want on, as the bulb in my Pentax IV spot is too darn dim to be of any use for dim light and night shots

The Pentax would be ok if it only held the reading long enough to shine a red light into the lens and let you see what it just read, but it does no.

The Luna Pro F, however does, and, even on it's on, it is a great meter.

IMO.

 

[Laci Toth]

The one pictured above, has the zone scale, just no a sticker or printout showing the graduations of the zone system scale, glued in place.

Buy the way, this meter, like the non-battery Luna Pro, takes the same darkroom meter attachment, the 7.5 - 15 degree attachment, and several other attachments that made the leap to the Luna Pro F, and they do work well., but seeing that 1degree spot sure makes me want on, as the bulb in my Pentax IV spot is too darn dim to be of any use for dim light and night shots

The Pentax would be ok if it only held the reading long enough to shine a red light into the lens and let you see what it just read, but it does no.

The Luna Pro F, however does, and, even on it's on, it is a great meter.

IMO.

Hi,

Since then I got the Gossen Profisix and it’s all fine! Thanks for your thougths though!

 

[BradS]

Hi,

Since then I got the Gossen Profisix and it’s all fine! Thanks for your thougths though!

let us know how it works out - I'm especially interested to know how it does in that extreme cold environment. What issues do you notice? , what steps do you take to work around them? , etc...

 

[Sirius Glass]

There are many good recommendation already listed. I strongly suggest that you keep the light meter warm in your clothes in between photographs. That will help both the battery and the response [it will respond more quickly].

 

[eli griggs]

There are many good recommendation already listed. I strongly suggest that you keep the light meter warm in your clothes in between photographs. That will help both the battery and the response [it will respond more quickly].

Yes, the battery in the shirt pocket is always a good way to go, especially if your film camera is no dependent on electrics, but does have a battery for metering, ie, either one of the Canon F1's, second and third, etc..

Luna Pros and other meters though can be problematic, with the delicate, dangling connector for nine volt, and/ or tiny button batteries like in the Pentax IV, etc, in really cold weather,

As i was writing about the Luna Pro connector, it occures to me, that I should look into having stronger wires and top hat connectors installed into all my 9v kit, as I always am concerned about breaking or pulling out those average 9v units.

My solution for battery failures, meterless cameras and questionable powered readings, is/has been for a number of years now, to always carry one of two Weston 5 meters, with domes, as a third option to the Luna Pro F and Pentax IV.

A good meter like these or Western IV's is a way to be stressless in the field.

IMO.

 

[Sirius Glass]

There are many good recommendation already listed. I strongly suggest that you keep the light meter warm in your clothes in between photographs. That will help both the battery and the response [it will respond more quickly].

Yes, the battery in the shirt pocket is always a good way to go, especially if your film camera is no dependent on electrics, but does have a battery for metering, ie, either one of the Canon F1's, second and third, etc..

Luna Pros and other meters though can be problematic, with the delicate, dangling connector for nine volt, and/ or tiny button batteries like in the Pentax IV, etc, in really cold weather,

As i was writing about the Luna Pro connector, it occures to me, that I should look into having stronger wires and top hat connectors installed into all my 9v kit, as I always am concerned about breaking or pulling out those average 9v units.

My solution for battery failures, meterless cameras and questionable powered readings, is/has been for a number of years now, to always carry one of two Weston 5 meters, with domes, as a third option to the Luna Pro F and Pentax IV.

A good meter like these or Western IV's is a way to be stressless in the field.

IMO.

My Gossen Luna Pro SBC ate 9 volt batteries so I carefully removed the battery after each time I took it out. I was talking about keeping the light meter in the pocket.

 

[AgX]

So far only the temperature dependancy of the battery is hinted at here, but the other parts of the metering circuit are temperature dependant too.
This may be compensated for.

(Gossen in one manual state the meter being temperature compensated.)

 

[BradS]

This is what I'm thinking too...electronics, electro-mechincal meters, and LCDs are all going to have issues in extreme cold .

 

[eli griggs]

My Gossen Luna Pro SBC ate 9 volt batteries so I carefully removed the battery after each time I took it out. I was talking about keeping the light meter in the pocket.

I understood you were talking about pockets, but the Luna Pro F/SBC is a pocketful for many, and yes it does eat 9v batteries, however, there are persons that do no share my caution about removing and replacing the Luna Pro battery, whom will prefer to do so.

After all, its down to what works for you and there is no single "best way", simply finding out what works for the individual photographers reading this post, now or in the future.

As far as the rest of the electrics, for the Luna Pro F/SBC, I've had several of these meters over many years and even on Mt.Rainier's glacial for several days, back when my fingers were still working nimbly, in my early 20's, I had no issue whatsoever with cold disabling ANY meter I used, in camera or otherwise, kept in a pack or bag.

Electronics, in my experience, work perfectly with warm batteries, even in -17 degrees F (wind adjusted), and cameras,lenses and meters with optics kept warm in those relatively mild temperatures have more of an issue with freezing condensation, when pulled out, than with batteries kept warm and placed in cold equipment, when actually in use.

IMO.

 

[tonyowen]

-30C equals -22F. Years ago I skied at 30 below [-30F] and colder, especially with wind chill, in Canada & the States with a Leica M3 and its own meter. Only problem was that the camera and light meter turned into a block of ice when entering a 'warm' room.
No other problems except perhaps the brittleness of the film when changing rolls outside in the snow and ice.
regards
Tony

 

[Laci Toth]

-30C equals -22F. Years ago I skied at 30 below [-30F] and colder, especially with wind chill, in Canada & the States with a Leica M3 and its own meter. Only problem was that the camera and light meter turned into a block of ice when entering a 'warm' room.
No other problems except perhaps the brittleness of the film when changing rolls outside in the snow and ice.
regards
Tony

Wow, it’s a nice story! Thanks for sharing! Due to the current situation I postponed the journey but looking forward to go as soon as possible.

 

[removed account4]

Hi Laci

I hate to suggest this, but sometimes sunny16 can be your friend in any type of lighting. Keep a notebook or have a good memory regarding different lighting scenarios, use your meter and practice shooting without a light meter and user your meter and see how close you got. Pretty soon you won't have to even bother with a meter. And .. remember it is better to err on the side of over exposure than under exposure ( or opposite if you are shooting chrome film ).

Have fun !
John

 

[Laci Toth]

Hi Laci

I hate to suggest this, but sometimes sunny16 can be your friend in any type of lighting. Keep a notebook or have a good memory regarding different lighting scenarios, use your meter and practice shooting without a light meter and user your meter and see how close you got. Pretty soon you won't have to even bother with a meter. And .. remember it is better to err on the side of over exposure than under exposure ( or opposite if you are shooting chrome film ).

Have fun !
John

Thanks for your response John!
I kinda getting used to it since I posted this thread.
As I don't really like to take photos in sunshine I first observed the different lighting conditions in different cloudy days. I even shot a few test rolls and the outcomes were good most of the time but I rather under than overexposed them. I'm still lost just before the sun goes down or shortly afterwards before it gets dark, especially that now I only shoot with obscuras. I'm getting there I think but need practicing.
By the way I have a question about how do you determine the right exposure time if it's a long one like in the case of of obscuras and the sun is in and out? Should I measure the brightest and the lowest and observe how much time the camera spends in either condition while taking the photo and guesstimate the best I can?

 

[removed account4]

Hi Laci
I think since you have a predisposition ( like most people ) to under expose a little bit I would do your guesstimate and double it . If I was to photograph with sun going in and out I'd do my estimate for when the sun is darkest rather than between or when it is bright. I hope that makes sense?
John

 

[Laci Toth]

Hi Laci
I think since you have a predisposition ( like most people ) to under expose a little bit I would do your guesstimate and double it . If I was to photograph with sun going in and out I'd do my estimate for when the sun is darkest rather than between or when it is bright. I hope that makes sense?
John

Yea, I think I know what you mean! So then I really expose for the shadows .
Thanks!