Best format for street shooting

[clayne]

Yep grain is life. A good portion of the grain-whiners have already gone digital anyways.

 

[glockman99]

For my street-shooting I use one of my Nikon F3HP cameras, (with MD-4 motordrive). I generally use my Nikkor ED 180mm lens when I want to be "sneeky", or my Nikkor 35mm f/2.8 lens when I want to include the surroundings. My "walk-about" lens is a very nice Tokina AT-X 28-85mm f/3.5-4.5 lens. Sometimes I even plug my waist-level finder onto my F3, and pretend to be just "foolin'-around" with my camera, in-order to get people's "guard" down.

 

[TheFlyingCamera]

Anyone have used old Hasselblads in streets or are they too "look my pro camera" type of cameras?

Actually, it's not so much the look of the camera as it is the "Ka-THWUNK" of the mirror and body doors popping open and closed on the Hassy that kills it for street photography. You may get your first shot if nobody is aware of you, but you'll not get a second.

I was amazed at the rangefinder phenomenon - how people really do seem to ignore rangefinders but get all freaked about SLRs. I haven't really tried my Rolleiflex TLR for that kind of work yet, so I can't say how much better it would be than a 35mm rangefinder, but I've expanded my Contax G system inventory for travel, I like it so much, and that's coming from someone who thinks of a 4x5 as a point-n-shoot.

 

[Taslim Abdani]

For me, the absolute best camera for street photography is the Konica Hexar AF. It is no bigger than a Leica and it is about as quiet. In "Stealth mode." it is even quieter. It is very fast with a 35mm f2 lens that rivals the best lenses ever made. My street photography has become more "street" using this camera.

 

[pesphoto]

Honestly, The Yashica GSN is a great street shooter. 40mm lens and F1.7 The "Poor man's" Hexar..........

 

[Blacknoise]

I quite like using the rolleiflex, just because the WLF means that most people done even realise im taking a photo, and the shutter is almost silent too. But I mostly use my Leica IIIf, I don't know if its the HCB vibe, but it just works for me...

 

[Colin Corneau]

I did quite a lot of what would be called "street" photography overseas with my Bronica SQ-Ai...with a 45-degree prism finder it worked beautifully. Repeating oneself by saying "what works for you" but it's true.

FWIW I've found the TMax films used with TMax developer gave (seemingly) non-existent grain if that's the criteria. If you're using 35mm film it's a fine choice for that.

 

[Katier]

In my limited experience in street photograpy, I found that my Rollei TLR was the best for me.

Jeff

Same here, I use a Yashicamat LM and it's easier, quicker and simpler to use than any other camera I've used.

When doing street I preset the exposure to allow a depth of field in the range I expect. Something around 2-10m or there abouts. I then pre-focus to (in this example ) about 5m and remember the lightmeter reading from when I setup the camera.

I then just adjust the shutter speed if the light changes dramatically ( which it rarely does ) and the large WLF allows quick and simple composition. Much easier than 35mm.

 

[Karl K]

Have you ever tried a Yashica T4 or T4 Super (T5)? They are point 'n shoot 35mm cameras with spectacular wide angle Zeiss T* lenses. Autofocus, autoexposure, auto film advance, and built-in/fill-in flash. Great for street shooting.

 

[Katier]

Have you ever tried a Yashica T4 or T4 Super (T5)? They are point 'n shoot 35mm cameras with spectacular wide angle Zeiss T* lenses. Autofocus, autoexposure, auto film advance, and built-in/fill-in flash. Great for street shooting.

Personally Not sure it would be a good option. The main reasons are two fold.

1) don't want autofocus.
2) don't want autoexposure.

Depth of field control is important in street and you don't have time for autofocus to find it's focus.. heck your likely to miss shots if the subject is moving.

 

[Joe VanCleave]

I also have a Yashica LM, great camera; I'm going to hafta put down the Lumix G1 digital for a while and do some more medium format street work.

Katier, I like your idea of prefocusing and presetting the aperture, then varying the shutter speed for varying light. Sounds like a smart strategy. Hmm, I may have to try that with my other cameras.

~Joe

 

[benjiboy]

The way people react to photographers these days I tend to use a Minox 35 GT compact, because it's quiet, has a very sharp 35mm 2.8 lens that can be focused at the hyperfocal distance, aperture priority exposure, and above all is smaller than a pack of cigarettes, so if my subject takes offense and sticks it " where the Sun don't shine" it won't be too painful

 

[firecracker]

I still use Contax T3 for my B&W stuff. It's a damn good camera.

 

[wobsy]

It comes down to what you are wanting to photograph.
I would suggest if your target is architectural then go the whole hog with tripod and whatever camera you want. But 'street photography' in my understanding usually means people doing things - or not. The problem here in the UK has got a whole lot worse recently with the 'terrorist suspect' thing so that a small unobtrusive camera seems to be the necessary tool. In my case I have ditched my OM4Ti in these instances for its older smaller brother the XA. Pre-set focus, pre-set aperture, auto exposure, - good most of the time - and built in back light compensation.

 

[HarryW]

Tri-X
Leica M2
CV 40mm f1.4
Weston Master V

Harry

 

[Domenico Foschi]

You do need to explore the various formats by taking into account also what interests you in street shooting.
For the issue of grain I am surprised that nobody has mentioned Efke film which is a real good emulsion in tones and very small grain.

 

[2F/2F]

I've always thought that your pictures had to be tack sharp and able to be blown up to 16X20 without much quality loss.

Take a look at the most classic street photography, and you will see that practically none of it meets one of these mere technical criteria.

 

[viridari]

I've always thought that your pictures had to be tack sharp and able to be blown up to 16X20 without much quality loss. But without using medium to large format can you achieve acceptable results.

Ever heard of an obscure photographer by the name of Henri Cartier-Bresson?

Or a little camera manufacturer by the name of Leica?

I prefer my medium format TLR for street work but the giants of the field often preferred 35mm.

 

[lensworker]

In my opinion, 35mm is the way to go for street photography.

I have had 11"x14" prints made from some of my 35mm Tri-X negs and they look great - very fine grain, individual hairs on a person's head rendered nice and sharp, good contrast, good detail, beautiful tonal scale, etc. I can't see why they could not be enlarged to 16"x20" size and look nearly as good as they do now.

It's all in the printing and the quality of enlarging lens and camera lens used. That along with good technique when photographing and when enlarging makes for quality prints. Also, if you are concerned about 35mm print quality at 16"x20" or larger, use an ISO 100 film such as Fuji Acros (provided you are using a film camera).

You could use a Mamiya 7II with the 65mm lens (equivalent to a 33 mm field of view in 35mm format); 6x7 negs will produce better quality prints than 35mm negs will. The one drawback to that kit for street shooting is that maximum aperture is f/4, decidedly slow for handheld street work - but an ISO 400 film will regain the exposure ground lost to the f/4 lens. You will also be changing film more often, as 120 give you 10 images on a roll and 220 will give you 20 6x7 images per roll.

Regarding print size, in my opinion print size is a secondary consideration. Some of the photographs with the most impact I've ever seen were printed at 6"x8" image size. The photographer was a Guggenheim recipient. Conversely, some of the most ordinary, mundane prints I've ever seen were made with a 20"x24" view camera and contact printed.

Making images with impact is about your photographic vision, not about print size.

 

[vpwphoto]

One of my favorite/fellow students years ago made WONDERFUL 16x20's from 35mm...
Just do what feels right to you. For the street photography you describe I do find the waist level finder to be helpful... and those are on medium format... never tried a waist level finder on a 35mm. I know the F series of Nikon and Canon both offered one.

 

[canuhead]

Mamiya 6's and 7's are great for working on the street, not heavy, glass is great and big view through the finder. and yeah, nice big negs. Also ditto tlr's like C330 and the like.

 

[lensworker]

One of my favorite/fellow students years ago made WONDERFUL 16x20's from 35mm...
Just do what feels right to you. For the street photography you describe I do find the waist level finder to be helpful... and those are on medium format... never tried a waist level finder on a 35mm. I know the F series of Nikon and Canon both offered one.

Nikon made a waist level finder for the F3hp. You might be able to find one on eBay or at a camera dealer who stocks alot of used Nikon.

I have an F3hp with the SLR prism and the waist level finder - have used the waist level on a tripod for landscapes but i haven't used it for street photography (yet).

 

[Newt_on_Swings]

I have been using my tiny little 35mm Olympus RC range finger for street recently. It is hardly ever noticed, I keep it to my side and palm it sometimes in one hand to shoot verticals from waist to just below waist height. The 40mm f2.8 lens is quite limiting as I find it not fast or wide enough for me. I have been shooting p3200 with it, not getting to many keepers though, the camera is tricky to zone focus too.

I get the majority of my good street shots on my olympus PC/om40, nikon em, and my f3, with a combination of fast 24mm and 50mm lenses. the first 2 bodies for their compact size, and the f3 as its just very comfortable in the hand and just works beautifully. i also like to zone focus and shoot from the camera hanging around my neck, it works quite well, but is not for every situation.

as for traditional focusing, the f3 is amazing fast with the P, G2 and H2 screens. The P is a general screen but with split at 45*, the G2 is a big fat center microprism, the H2 is the entire screen covered in microprism (very trippy). I have been working on the H2 screen as it takes a bit of adjustment, but I believe will be better off for even faster shots when you do not have to recompose after focusing from a center spot such as on the P, and G2 screens. Also used with a eyecup to block stray light.

I have also done street with a TLR, but thats a bit trickier and is not as fast. I usually focus on a spot and wait for people to walk into it.

 

[alexfoto]

-As all we now the most use 35mm, and this is the reason i don't use ...
-If we want to make something new and different to excel our self, don't copy to the others..
-Henry breson is unique because use something the other they don't..

 

[vpwphoto]

-Henry breson is unique because use something the other they don't..

He could also "see" like few others since or before... and he had impeccable timing.
Robert Frank is another!