Sirius Glass
Subscriber
I have only used the Unicolor C41 kit.
Tetenal liquid kits have given me great results, C41 and E6. Tetenal states that if you use solutions past a certain point you can get acceptable results but will be less than optimal. The powder kits work, but these were originally intended as "Press Kits" that a photographer could literally mix this stuff up in a motel room if needed to develop their film. If I had a new CPP3 processor, I would find someone in NZ that is using C41 RA chemistry, be it Kodak, Fuji, or Tetenal and try to buy from them.I have Unicolor, Tetenal and Arista and the results were all excellent. For small lots and for powder form - which may be more easily shippable to New Zealand, Unicolor kits make a lot of sense. Given Tetenal's central place in film chemistry as a supplier to suppliers, it's a good thing to support them if you can, too.
This is normal color. Part of this is my lighting. Material is probably about 1.5 years old. I got a bunch of this from a friend that closed his shop. I've passed 4 or 5 cases of various Fuji film and paper on to my young enthusiast friend. Normal color is described as pale straw color. The starter kit is like Kodak a 3 part mix, this is just straight replenisher. I use fresh Kodak Alaris Flexicolor chemicals. I don't like fiddling with this even when it was free.That developer looks rather dark, suggesting a fairly advanced stage of oxidation. Do you find it still usable when it looks like that? Or is this normal for the Fuji Hunt chemicals?
I went back and looked at this. Yes this developer does look darker than new. The Fuji developer is definitely got some color to the concentrates both film and paper developer replenisher. I once saw a guy develop prints in Dektol that looked like maple pancake syrup. Horrible, it worked.That developer looks rather dark, suggesting a fairly advanced stage of oxidation. Do you find it still usable when it looks like that? Or is this normal for the Fuji Hunt chemicals?
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