Best 4x5 camera for starting out

[eli griggs]

I would also like to add that the main reason I am interested in large format photography is due to contact printing. I found I quite enjoy the printing out process, at least from my experience in cyanotypes.

If you plan on contact printing of your view camera negatives, 'conventual' advice is to bypass the 4"x5" cameras and go with a 5"x7" or larger 8"x10".

I believe some press cameras were made in 5"x7" format and while there's a smaller selection of negative films than 4"x5", contact printing 5"x7" paper negatives will allow you more viewable, saleable prints, which is the primary & original reason for this conventional advice.

IMO

 

[eli griggs]

If you plan on contact printing of your view camera negatives, 'conventual' advice is to bypass the 4"x5" cameras and go with a 5"x7" or larger 8"x10".

I believe some press cameras were made in 5"x7" format and while there's a smaller selection of negative films than 4"x5", contact printing 5"x7" paper negatives will allow you more viewable, saleable prints, which is the primary & original reason for this conventional advice.

Being able to afford more negatives, typical or paper, from sales, is satisfying, and you only need one or two film holders and a changing tent and film boxes to go out for a day or week of shooting.

IMO

 

[xya]

They look like excellent cameras but I believe the days of them being going for 500 might be a tad over, I did a quick ebay check and a lot were well over my budget. Still a great camera I haven't heard of thank you for letting me know.

It's a thing to look out for and be a bit patient. I payed 350€ 18 months ago, that's not so long ago...

 

[Craig]

Also keep your eyes on the classifieds here and at the large format photography forum for some of the wooden folders that BS Kumar sells from Japan. He's excellent to deal with.

 

[Howl23]

I strongly suggest that you start with a 4"x5" Pacemaker Speed Graphic with a top mounted viewfinder which allows you to use it hand held, it is a press camera, and to mount it on a tripod with limited movements. I have found the limited movements more than enough. It and any lenses can be resold to get your money back or more. Shooting hand held will allow you the freedom to quickly take photographs and it much more convenient and fun. Also get the Grafmatic 45 back so that you can take six photographs without reloading. Any lenses that you buy will also work on any view camera or 4"x5" camera.

That is definitely a good contender and looks like I have a lot of options available which, is good to know. I was also not aware the grafmatic 45 was even a thing, that is definitely useful and convenient since my dev tank holds up to 6 sheets. Thank you for letting me know !

 

[xya]

I strongly suggest that you start with a 4"x5" Pacemaker Speed Graphic with a top mounted viewfinder which allows you to use it hand held, it is a press camera, and to mount it on a tripod with limited movements. I have found the limited movements more than enough. It and any lenses can be resold to get your money back or more. Shooting hand held will allow you the freedom to quickly take photographs and it much more convenient and fun. Also get the Grafmatic 45 back so that you can take six photographs without reloading. Any lenses that you buy will also work on any view camera or 4"x5" camera.

I have 2 Pacemakers, a Crown and Speed. I used the Crown more often because of size and weight. The biggest disadvantage of these press cameras is the portrait mode. Holding them for landscape format is a bit weird, at least for me.

 

[Howl23]

If you plan on contact printing of your view camera negatives, 'conventual' advice is to bypass the 4"x5" cameras and go with a 5"x7" or larger 8"x10".

I believe some press cameras were made in 5"x7" format and while there's a smaller selection of negative films than 4"x5", contact printing 5"x7" paper negatives will allow you more viewable, saleable prints, which is the primary & original reason for this conventional advice.

IMO

I have considered this well and getting a reducing back if possible but I also don't own a 5x7 or 8x10 contact printing frame, i have only a 4x5 that was gifted to me. Furthermore, from what I've noticed cameras past the scope of 4x5 tend to be on a rail type system which isn't very portable.
In regards to sales, this is primarily for my enjoyment as well as giving photos to family/friends. I am still some skillsets off before I could sell a print!

 

[Howl23]

I have 2 Pacemakers, a Crown and Speed. I used the Crown more often because of size and weight. The biggest disadvantage of these press cameras is the portrait mode. Holding them for landscape format is a bit weird, at least for me.

That may not be a big disadvantage to me, some of my cameras, such as the exakta, can be awkward or weird when handling. Although what do you mean exactly in regards to the portrait mode, as that is my primary focus.

 

[xya]

The back of the camera is mounted in portrait format, 4' wide and 5' height. It can not be rotated to 5' wide and 4' height for landscapes. You have to turn the camera sideways to shoot landscapes.

 

[Oren Grad]

I have considered this well and getting a reducing back if possible but I also don't own a 5x7 or 8x10 contact printing frame, i have only a 4x5 that was gifted to me. Furthermore, from what I've noticed cameras past the scope of 4x5 tend to be on a rail type system which isn't very portable.

There are many, many folding field cameras available in formats larger than 4x5. The main constraint is cost, but 5x7 field cameras can sometimes be found relatively inexpensively.

But 4x5 contact prints can be wonderful too. I've made contact prints from negatives as small as 2 1/4 x 3 1/4" sheet film and 6x6 cm roll film. Don't worry if others say they are too small - try it for yourself and see if you find the prints pleasing. You may find that some subjects lend themselves to "little jewel" treatment while others don't.

I shoot large format exclusively for contact printing, and I don't use a contact printing frame - in my darkroom those always cause Newton's rings in the prints. You can just sandwich the negative and paper underneath a thick piece of glass.

Good luck and enjoy!

 

[Howl23]

The back of the camera is mounted in portrait format, 4' wide and 5' height. It can not be rotated to 5' wide and 4' height for landscapes. You have to turn the camera sideways to shoot landscapes.

Ooo ok I understand, thank you for the clarification. I think in my case that is perfectly acceptable then

 

[Howl23]

There are many, many folding field cameras available in formats larger than 4x5. The main constraint is cost, but 5x7 field cameras can sometimes be found relatively inexpensively.

But 4x5 contact prints can be wonderful too. I've made contact prints from negatives as small as 2 1/4 x 3 1/4" sheet film and 6x6 cm roll film. Don't worry if others say they are too small - try it for yourself and see if you find the prints pleasing. You may find that some subjects lend themselves to "little jewel" treatment while others don't.

I shoot large format exclusively for contact printing, and I don't use a contact printing frame - in my darkroom those always cause Newton's rings in the prints. You can just sandwich the negative and paper underneath a thick piece of glass.

Good luck and enjoy!

I have actually ! I gave a small 6x6cm portrait to my coworker as a cyanotype and they loved it, although I should have gone with the hot press paper instead in that instance. I do have some 2 1/4x 3 1/4 film that my medium format takes but it just comes out as 6x6 unfortunately. I have considered doing 2 1/4x 3 1/4 instead of 4x5 but I find 4x5 or even 5x7 images to be ideal for gifting as its something some one can easily hold and view without much problems.

Thank you!

 

[Besk]

I would recommend going straight to 4x5. You can get just about all of your questions answered here; https://www.largeformatphotography.info/

I started out with a Crown Graphic myself.

 

[eli griggs]

I have considered this well and getting a reducing back if possible but I also don't own a 5x7 or 8x10 contact printing frame, i have only a 4x5 that was gifted to me. Furthermore, from what I've noticed cameras past the scope of 4x5 tend to be on a rail type system which isn't very portable.
In regards to sales, this is primarily for my enjoyment as well as giving photos to family/friends. I am still some skillsets off before I could sell a print!

You can easily build a good 5"x7" contact frame, just use a stable hardwood like Cherry, Maple, Mahogany or White Oak.

5"x7" field and press cameras are out there, an old wooden Kodak, for example.

Do yourself a favor, and take a 4"x5" negative or two, borrowed from someone here and a 5"x7" negative, contact both, you only need a piece of single thickness glass to contact either, and just put them up Infront of an exit, which you pass often when at home, leaving them there all week.

This is the best way to see the huge difference that the larger negative makes and I suspect you'll sone see the reason getting that size will benefit you best.

Until you start fooling around with ultra large formats, larger than 8"x10" or so, the controls, tilts, shifts, focus, etc controls are the same and so they'll be no delay trying to learn the larger 5"x7" format.

You can more easily process the 5"x7" in trays, and tanks and Kodak hangers exist.

Just think about trying the exercise I suggested, before taking a final decision, you might surprise yourself.

Godspeed to All here, stay warm in this newest cold weather.
Eli

 

[awty]

You can easily build a good 5"x7" contact frame, just use a stable hardwood like Cherry, Maple, Mahogany or White Oak.

5"x7" field and press cameras are out there, an old wooden Kodak, for example.

Do yourself a favor, and take a 4"x5" negative or two, borrowed from someone here and a 5"x7" negative, contact both, you only need a piece of single thickness glass to contact either, and just put them up Infront of an exit, which you pass often when at home, leaving them there all week.

This is the best way to see the huge difference that the larger negative makes and I suspect you'll sone see the reason getting that size will benefit you best.

Until you start fooling around with ultra large formats, larger than 8"x10" or so, the controls, tilts, shifts, focus, etc controls are the same and so they'll be no delay trying to learn the larger 5"x7" format.

You can more easily process the 5"x7" in trays, and tanks and Kodak hangers exist.

Just think about trying the exercise I suggested, before taking a final decision, you might surprise yourself.

Godspeed to All here, stay warm in this newest cold weather.
Eli

I agree with Eli, 4x5 is too small for contact printing, great if you have a 4x5 enlarger.
5x7 is much bigger difference than you might think.

 

[Howl23]

It appears I have much to learn about these cameras than I had expected. I may also include 5x7 cameras in my search as well! Thank you everyone, I have much to study in this.
Although I am not sure who would be willing to let me borrow a 4x5 and 5x7 negative to compare.

 

[eli griggs]

It appears I have much to learn about these cameras than I had expected. I may also include 5x7 cameras in my search as well! Thank you everyone, I have much to study in this.
Although I am not sure who would be willing to let me borrow a 4x5 and 5x7 negative to compare.

Just ask, the folks here are very good at helping each other out.

While I'm here;

Can some of you send Howl23 a 'good' printable 5"x7" or 4"x7" negative so he can print his comparison contact sheets, Please.

 

[guangong]

Everybody is giving advice, but we still don’t know his intended use. Each format has its strong points and weaknesses. 35mm speed and spontaneity, LF deliberation and patience. But among LF there are press cameras, but these lost favor with arrival of Rollei and then 35mm. That doesn’t mean that shooting with a press camera isn’t fun now and then. Monorails belong indoors. Qualms gave the best suggestion, get more 9x12 film and use the camera you own.
One advantage of LF is that there is no need to upgrade for latest model with faster motor drive, more pixels, etc. And there is a limit to how many lenses are needed. Thus, there is a saving on GAS. In the long run, it’s cheaper to learn more about what one needs and wants, even if need to spend more.
Decades ago I bought a Wista field camera, some film holders, two lenses and incidentals and never needed more. It makes an easy package to carry.

 

[Jimskelton]

If you don't need movements and and want a fairly lightweight camera with a rangefinder, maybe the Polaroid 110A/B would get you started. It would need to be converted to 4x5, but there are various ways to do that. If you have access to a 3D printer, that would make it much easier. You can often pick up a good 110A for around $100 (with 127mm lens), and if you have access to a 3d printer, printing the back and even film holders probably doesn't cost more than $15. That'll leave lots of $$ for tanks 'n stuff. You can use this camera with a ground glass if you like, but I use it almost all the time with just the rangefinder. It all fits inside an original Polaroid roll film camera case or a small backpack.

Here's a pic of the back:

The film holders are custom sized to fit within the lines of the camera. You can convert these cameras to fit standard sized film holders but that would work better with a model 110B since the rangefinder/viewfinder are combined and farther to the left, making room for the 4x5 back.

 

[Howl23]

Everybody is giving advice, but we still don’t know his intended use. Each format has its strong points and weaknesses. 35mm speed and spontaneity, LF deliberation and patience. But among LF there are press cameras, but these lost favor with arrival of Rollei and then 35mm. That doesn’t mean that shooting with a press camera isn’t fun now and then. Monorails belong indoors. Qualms gave the best suggestion, get more 9x12 film and use the camera you own.
One advantage of LF is that there is no need to upgrade for latest model with faster motor drive, more pixels, etc. And there is a limit to how many lenses are needed. Thus, there is a saving on GAS. In the long run, it’s cheaper to learn more about what one needs and wants, even if need to spend more.
Decades ago I bought a Wista field camera, some film holders, two lenses and incidentals and never needed more. It makes an easy package to carry.

My intended use is for portraiture, specifically environmental portraiture, such as friends/family going about their day doing their normal everyday things or while at work. This is why I would prefer something lightweight and portable, and not a camera that requires a rail or tripod. Then with the images I would make some contact prints such as cyanotypes, maybe ambrotypes or salt prints, as gifts for said people.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I strongly suggest that you start with a 4"x5" Pacemaker Speed Graphic with a top mounted viewfinder which allows you to use it hand held, it is a press camera, and to mount it on a tripod with limited movements. I have found the limited movements more than enough. It and any lenses can be resold to get your money back or more. Shooting hand held will allow you the freedom to quickly take photographs and it much more convenient and fun. Also get the Grafmatic 45 back so that you can take six photographs without reloading. Any lenses that you buy will also work on any view camera or 4"x5" camera.

The Speed Graphic allows one to choose between a focal plane shutter or a lens [leaf] shutter. That means one can find old shutterless lenses, sometimes very inexpensive, and use them with the focal plane shutter.

 

[Howl23]

The Speed Graphic allows one to choose between a focal plane shutter or a lens [leaf] shutter. That means one can find old shutterless lenses, sometimes very inexpensive, and use them with the focal plane shutter.

I'm was actually watching some YouTube videos on the Speed Graphic when you sent this comment, scary good timing! I am wondering how readily serviced these cameras are, do you happen to know?

 

[Oren Grad]

My intended use is for portraiture, specifically environmental portraiture, such as friends/family going about their day doing their normal everyday things or while at work. This is why I would prefer something lightweight and portable, and not a camera that requires a rail or tripod.

What is your definition of "lightweight"?

 

[Sirius Glass]

I'm was actually watching some YouTube videos on the Speed Graphic when you sent this comment, scary good timing! I am wondering how readily serviced these cameras are, do you happen to know?

I bought my Pacemaker Speed Graphic and Graflex Model D from a retired Graflex and Graphic repairman. They were the best of each from his collection. He passed away over a decade ago. He sent me Word files for focal plane repairs. I have used Steve's Camera in Culver City California for a problem with the Pacemaker Speed Graphic a few years ago.

 

[Howl23]

What is your definition of "lightweight"?

Good question! For me personally, as long as I don't have to carry a tripod around in order to use the camera then it's light weight. A very abstract definition I know, but effective, at least in my opinion. From what I can tell, a lot of the folding cameras don't seem to very too greatly in weight.