Bellows for Nikon f mount

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Dan Fromm

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Thank you for the response. The issue I am having is teetering the camera back and forth to get the focus with the tripod on the ground. This lens is manual focus and has 2:1 magnification. I used a bellows with the Leica set up and was able to get nice crisp images. I was hoping for the same with my Nikon set up. I am thinking a rail system might be better suited for the Nikon.

The PB4 has an integral rail, shown in post #6 above. By the way, for work above 1:1 the lens should be reversed. Nikon makes attachments for mounting a reversed lens on a NIkon mount bellows and for using a double cable release for stopping the lens down and firing the camera's shutter. I don't know why Mr. Sarile showed you a PB4 with what appears to be a 55/2.8 MicroNikkor mounted normally.

Working with a tripod and rail will usually work for mushrooms, lichens and "still lifes." No good for moving subjects, and that includes flowers if there is any wind at all.

I don't use a tripod for out-and-about close up work. Teetering with the camera on a tripod is, um, not easy.
 

Les Sarile

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The PB4 has an integral rail, shown in post #6 above. By the way, for work above 1:1 the lens should be reversed. Nikon makes attachments for mounting a reversed lens on a NIkon mount bellows and for using a double cable release for stopping the lens down and firing the camera's shutter. I don't know why Mr. Sarile showed you a PB4 with what appears to be a 55/2.8 MicroNikkor mounted normally.

Working with a tripod and rail will usually work for mushrooms, lichens and "still lifes." No good for moving subjects, and that includes flowers if there is any wind at all.

I don't use a tripod for out-and-about close up work. Teetering with the camera on a tripod is, um, not easy.

Just a totally equipped Nikon bellows setup is all. The series of enlargements I took with that setup. All those adjustments really comes in handy as you go up in magnification as focusing gets really fine. Lens reversed for the max magnification. Need plenty of light then.

I do like a good bellows setup . . .

Bellows02 by Les DMess, on Flickr
 

MattKing

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benveniste

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Hello,
I am wanting to get a bellows for my nikon f mount (film and digital) to use with my macro lens. I hope to get better focused images. (I am getting a rail system too.)
My question is which bellows should I get? Are they the same? I see about 3 different ones at KEH and range from $30-$200. what would be the best option for casual macro shooting of Lichen and mushrooms and maybe fruit stilllifes.

Thank you.

I own and occasionally use a PB-4, 28mm and 50mm enlarger lenses, and "casual" is about the last word I'd use to describe the process of using it.

The first challenge one faces is assembly. On my D200 and D800, I found it convenient to add an extension ring, which made it far easier to attach the bellows to the camera. Then, if you want to reverse the lens, you'll need a BR-2A or similar reversing ring, plus an adapter ring to the threads of your enlarger lens. Then you mount the bellows to a tripod or copy stand.

That's the easy part. Next, you have to find a way to position either your subject or your rig so you can focus on the subject. I usually start by focusing too closely and using the front adjustment to fine tune, but that's not always possible. Fortunately, enlarger lenses don't seem to suffer from focus shift when stopping down, but you can't use a double cable release either. So I then carefully stop down the lens, and shoot. When I'm using digital, I then chimp, curse, and repeat. When I'm using film, I bracket both focus and distance.

At the magnifications, even with perfect focusing you have to be concerned about both vibration and depth of field. My office is on the 2nd floor of my house, but if I set things up any motion on my part will cause visible shake. Even the refrigerator running on the floor below can spoil the shot. So for anything above about 3:1, I set up on the concrete floor of the basement instead.

Unless you can do focus stacking, you're almost always going to have to trade off depth of field and diffraction effects. I normally stop down to f/4, which at 3:1 means an effective aperture of f/16.

For a fruit still life, this is clearly overkill. Whether it's worth it for lichen or mushrooms is more subjective. Personally, though? If I was starting down this road, I'd take a serious look at USB coin or soldering microscopes instead.
 

xkaes

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My lens is a 2:1 which is two times 1:1 magnification. It's the Laowa 100mm f2.8, 2:1 for Nikon. I am wanting to set the focus on the lens, then move the camera to get the subject in focus. Moving the tripod back and forth does not work well outside. Inside I was fine.

All you need is a focusing rail for your camera. It does not have to be made by Nikon, but Nikon made them. There are many to choose from, and they are very inexpensive. After you set up the tripod, You attach the focusing rail, and put the camera op top. It it allows you to move the camera forward or backward for fine focusing, several inches -- but that varies by model. There are also some TWO rail focusing rails, so that you can more forward or back -- AND side to side. Here's one from Spiratone -- much cheaper than a bellows, but they also work with bellows.

rail.jpg
 
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How is this for a set of bellows?

IMG_2297.jpeg


This is two sets of Nikon PB4 bellows, connected together via a set of small Novoflex bellows and a few extension rings. DSLRs need an additional ring(PK-13 works fine) to mount and also require some maneuvering. That's for something like a D8xx series DSLR-you'd probably need a longer tube and would lose some flexibility to mount a single digit DSLR.

I built this set-up for a specific project-I was trying to photograph GC capillary columns with an inside diameter of .10-.50mm. It would have been easier with a good microscope, but I didn't have one. I put enough time and thought into this that I've just left it, and I have pulled it out a few other crazy times. I did accomplish what I was trying to do, and quite well(aside from almost no DOF) but that's a subject for another thread. Effective apertures are so small that I ended up using two Norman power packs, one firing a head at 2000 w-s and the other firing a second head at 1250 w-s. I've never used that much power on another shot-in fact I'm often fighting with being able to turn them down low enough even in macro work.

In any case, both of the PB4 bellows are mounted to a piece of aluminum box section(I think 1/2" but don't quote me on that-I actually asked by civil engineer brother in law to look over my sketches and make sure it would handle without flexing). I have one of the big Arca Swiss plates bolted to the center. The PB-4s have their mounting feet on nicely geared rails, so the whole set-up can be moved forward and back along the aluminum rail for focus. Of course focus can also be by moving the lens or the camera, and yes extension of all three bellows can be adjusted. At even minimum extension, any lens you stick on here is going to have more than enough circle to tilt and shift the the lens as much as the bellows allow.

I show the Nikon 105mm bellows mount on here, although it really needs to be reversed to be useable with this much extension. Really, for a Nikon lens, I actually found the 135mm bellows mount to be a bit more comfortable to use, especially when taken out of its dedicated extension tube and used with an M39 mount adapter. For the project I built this for, I ended up using a 150mm Rodenstock enlarger lens-I wasn't QUITE able to fill the frame like I could with a 135mm Nikkor, but it was a lot sharper so I could crop comfortably using my 45mp D850. I'd be interested to compare the 105mm Nikkor side-by-side sometime at the same magnification, but it was just too short for such a tiny subject.

BTW, I know I've talked a lot about using this with a DSLR, and hope I'm not running afoul of the rules by mentioning that I've used it there. Note that in the photo, I have an F2 hanging off the back. This is an F2 I put together YEARS ago for this sort of project, and did use it just because. This particular F2 body actually originally had a DP2 prism(the whole reason I bought the body in the first place) but at first it was flaky and then quit working completely. This body had battery leakage somewhere along the way, and I think the internal wiring to power a meter prism is shot. The DP2 ended up on another body. This one became the home for my moderately rare Type M focusing screen paired with the 6x chimney. The M screen gives an aerial image, has 1mm graduations on it, and a center reticle used for parallax focusing an aerial image. It's not an easy screen to use(and don't think about it unless you're using the 6x chimney) but is one of the few that will let you see much more than a shadow with this much magnification, and done properly parallax focusing is the best way to focus with this kind of work. I lucked into the M screen-if you're thinking about this sort of set up, the C screen is also an aerial screen with a reticle, but has a clear field otherwise. On a DSLR, life is easier with live view, and something with at least a hinged screen(like the D850) is welcome. I've also used my Fuji XT-5 on this.

I may end up buying another set of PB4 bellows, because as impractical as this unit is, I spent a lot of time planning and building it, and it's still just a really interesting piece...
 

xkaes

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Like I said, Pam, "Lots of people love to live vicariously by spending your money -- on a bellows that you might not need."
 

Chuck1

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How is this for a set of bellows?

View attachment 385872

This is two sets of Nikon PB4 bellows, connected together via a set of small Novoflex bellows and a few extension rings. DSLRs need an additional ring(PK-13 works fine) to mount and also require some maneuvering. That's for something like a D8xx series DSLR-you'd probably need a longer tube and would lose some flexibility to mount a single digit DSLR.

I built this set-up for a specific project-I was trying to photograph GC capillary columns with an inside diameter of .10-.50mm. It would have been easier with a good microscope, but I didn't have one. I put enough time and thought into this that I've just left it, and I have pulled it out a few other crazy times. I did accomplish what I was trying to do, and quite well(aside from almost no DOF) but that's a subject for another thread. Effective apertures are so small that I ended up using two Norman power packs, one firing a head at 2000 w-s and the other firing a second head at 1250 w-s. I've never used that much power on another shot-in fact I'm often fighting with being able to turn them down low enough even in macro work.

In any case, both of the PB4 bellows are mounted to a piece of aluminum box section(I think 1/2" but don't quote me on that-I actually asked by civil engineer brother in law to look over my sketches and make sure it would handle without flexing). I have one of the big Arca Swiss plates bolted to the center. The PB-4s have their mounting feet on nicely geared rails, so the whole set-up can be moved forward and back along the aluminum rail for focus. Of course focus can also be by moving the lens or the camera, and yes extension of all three bellows can be adjusted. At even minimum extension, any lens you stick on here is going to have more than enough circle to tilt and shift the the lens as much as the bellows allow.

I show the Nikon 105mm bellows mount on here, although it really needs to be reversed to be useable with this much extension. Really, for a Nikon lens, I actually found the 135mm bellows mount to be a bit more comfortable to use, especially when taken out of its dedicated extension tube and used with an M39 mount adapter. For the project I built this for, I ended up using a 150mm Rodenstock enlarger lens-I wasn't QUITE able to fill the frame like I could with a 135mm Nikkor, but it was a lot sharper so I could crop comfortably using my 45mp D850. I'd be interested to compare the 105mm Nikkor side-by-side sometime at the same magnification, but it was just too short for such a tiny subject.

BTW, I know I've talked a lot about using this with a DSLR, and hope I'm not running afoul of the rules by mentioning that I've used it there. Note that in the photo, I have an F2 hanging off the back. This is an F2 I put together YEARS ago for this sort of project, and did use it just because. This particular F2 body actually originally had a DP2 prism(the whole reason I bought the body in the first place) but at first it was flaky and then quit working completely. This body had battery leakage somewhere along the way, and I think the internal wiring to power a meter prism is shot. The DP2 ended up on another body. This one became the home for my moderately rare Type M focusing screen paired with the 6x chimney. The M screen gives an aerial image, has 1mm graduations on it, and a center reticle used for parallax focusing an aerial image. It's not an easy screen to use(and don't think about it unless you're using the 6x chimney) but is one of the few that will let you see much more than a shadow with this much magnification, and done properly parallax focusing is the best way to focus with this kind of work. I lucked into the M screen-if you're thinking about this sort of set up, the C screen is also an aerial screen with a reticle, but has a clear field otherwise. On a DSLR, life is easier with live view, and something with at least a hinged screen(like the D850) is welcome. I've also used my Fuji XT-5 on this.

I may end up buying another set of PB4 bellows, because as impractical as this unit is, I spent a lot of time planning and building it, and it's still just a really interesting piece...

How many watts does it take to see anything through through that?
 
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How many watts does it take to see anything through through that?

With an M screen in the F2, I can see just fine under the 2x100W lights in the ceiling of my dining room where this was taken. Same with live view on a DSLR. It's not BRIGHT, but it's probably brighter than say a conventional glass Hasselblad screen with an f/4 Sonnar under the same light, or with a Nikon D screen and an f/4 lens.

With a conventional screen...I don't really want to know. I've not tried it-with DSLRs I just always go to live view. I suspect a modern AF camera(film or digital) might not exactly be terrible since a lot of them optimize screen brightness over giving good focus "snap" to the point where most are basically impossible to get critical focus with anything faster than f/2.8 or so. There again, haven't tried to be able to say, though.
 
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