The other tips are fine, but WRT inexpensive papers I agree - I doubt very much that it's true, because house branded papers are just re-branded stuff made by the same few manufacturers and, even if it is true as far as not providing the same range of contrast, that's ok. You should rarely if ever need the softest or hardest grade the paper can produce anyway. If you do you are rescuing a poorly exposed or developed negative. Learn to expose and develop properly and consistently and you should rarely need to deviate more than a grade of contrast either way.
I started with PE / RC paper in 5x7 which can be bought reasonably cheap from several brands. I actually used MCP by Adox.
Make sure you use fresh paper and suitable safelights.
Lars
It depends upon where you live.
For example, Foma paper in Berlin is considerably cheaper than Ilford and the FOMA Fomabrom Variant 111 that I use as my standard paper is excellent. Add this to the fact that, for a box of 50 sheets of 30 x 40cm, the Foma is half the price of ILFORD Multigrade FB Classic and you can use a top grade paper for learning.
I would personally suggest that learning on poor quality paper will hinder your learning (for example some cheap brands of multigrade RC paper made for students, etc do not give a full range of contrast grades). Use the best paper you can afford and follow best developing practice from day one:
- Always develop fibre-based paper for at least 3 minutes.
- Never 'pull' prints (this is taking them out of the developer before they are fully developed).
- Always use fresh chemicals.
- Test that your safelights are truly safe for the paper that you are using.
- Always dry your test prints (old microwave or hair drier will do the job quickly) before deciding on the correct exposure (this is because fibre-based prints always are darker when they are dry).
- Always assess your dried test prints with a light level that is similar to where you might display them (i.e most homes in Europe have low light levels due to the use of energy efficient bulbs, galleries with older lighting systems have yellower tungsten bulbs that are much brighter than illumination in the home and newly opened galleriies tend now to have very bright neutral LED spotlights).
Good luck with learning to print - it is a great experience and helps all areas of your photographic development.
Bests,
David.
www.dsallen.de
Safelights Try reading the data sheet that comes with the paper in the box (or envelope). There will be information on recommended safelights there. Most variable contrast papers recommend a Kodak OC filter. Some Foma papers require red filters. Not sure of the equivalent Ilford filter nomenclature.
RC vs. Fiber Many experienced printers use both RC and fiber papers. Personally, I use RC for proofs and fiber paper for favorite prints I intend to mount.
Advice When learning to print it can be helpful to have some examples of fine prints on hand in the darkroom for reference. These will help train your vision to see appropriate contrast and exposure in your prints.
Ivanlow, the simplest answer I could give regarding safelights is use a red one, that is the safest choice.
It isn't the most comfortable light for your eyes (because they're not very sensitive in that light), but it is the best choice if you can only have one safelight. Regardless of what paper and safelight you use, you should check how safe it is with a procedure outlined here. Keep in mind that you need to test your safelight for every different paper that you use, not all papers are the same.
I do the same with RC and fiber. But I recommend RC for someone learning to print. It's far easier to wash, always lays flat (or near enough, sometimes a slight curl depending on humidity) and the basics of exposing, developing, burning, dodging, flashing etc. are exactly the same. Plus it's less expensive. And modern RC papers are quite good.
So why is FB paper better for display? Is it the absence of the glossiness?
Hi Jnanian,
You mention of Photo Warehouse / Ultra Fine, is there a link I can go check it out?
What would be wrong with buying the cheapest available RC paper, to learn on that the basics and then buy small packages of different papers in RC and FB to learn to distinguish characteristics as handling, surfaces, base hue, silver hue, response to different developers, lith-capacity etc. ?
And then to decide what papers one would like to stick to. And then get a economical stock of those in house.
Aside of David's remark on "cheap" papers, this seems to me a sound way to go.
So why is FB paper better for display? Is it the absence of the glossiness?
Hi, I'll be starting to print on my own, was looking into Ilford paper, they are not really low budget paper. I'm not complaining, just don't want get expensive paper before I learn how to print. What will be a good paper to start for beginner like me? If there are other brands please let me know.
I have seen beginners "turned completely off from printing" because they bought or were given cheap, outdated paper and never suceeded in making a nice well made print and it was really not their fault in technique other than trying to save money. Now is the time to buy good paper from one of several manufacturers, learn how to make a good photograph, then you can play around with different papers, film, etc.......Plus, you will probably have pictures early on that you will be proud to show...However, I am talking about Black and White..Color might not be the same but don't count on it.......Regards!
What will help keep costs down while learning is a multi format easel. Most of them let you make four 5x4 prints from one 10x8 sheet. Usually a few going on the auction site.
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