Bathroom and other Temporary/Makeshift Darkrooms

[Richard Jepsen]

An important comment on small space ventilation. I lack ventilation but leave the laundary room to check print values in the kitchen near the hold tray. It was a game changer 15 years ago when I migrated to an alkaline fix such as TF-4 or TF-5. Initially I used a water stop. Now I use a weak citrus stop. Multigrade developer is basically odor free. I sense no irritating fumes in my DR space. 5 x 7 trays are small with a small surface area. Its the acid in stop and fix that cause issues.

 

[mshchem]

An important comment on small space ventilation. I lack ventilation but leave the laundary room to check print values in the kitchen near the hold tray. It was a game changer 15 years ago when I migrated to an alkaline fix such as TF-4 or TF-5. Initially I used a water stop. Now I use a weak citrus stop. Multigrade developer is basically odor free. I sense no irritating fumes in my DR space. 5 x 7 trays are small with a small surface area. Its the acid in stop and fix that cause

Simple straight sodium thiosulfate fix isn't stinky, when you add boric and acetic acid etc to make it hardening fix that it gets so bad.

You have a great system here, get rid of the stinky stuff.

 

[pbromaghin]

I'm taking a darkroom class at Red Rocks Community College and just yesterday gave a darkroom to a kid in the class. He's a freshman right out of high school living with his parents and his mom is really paranoid about darkroom chemicals, like the 70's and 80's and the EPA never happened. He's a really shy and quiet, giant of a kid (6'5", 300+) who never held a film camera in his hand before this class and ended up making the most beautiful prints of the semester.

It's a nice little bathroom setup with a Durst F60 and EVERYthing he needs to bulk load 35mm, process, and print up to 8x10 RC. Except a timer, I couldn't find an extra timer. I felt good, he felt good, our instructor felt good, and my wife felt good to finally see some equipment leave the house after 10 years of accumulating 4 darkrooms worth.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

I always had the itch to design a fully integrated darkroom cabinet on wheels to develop film and make prints. Everything would be set up and it could be rolled into a darkened room to start working quickly and roll it into storage when done. Well... maybe one day...

 

[pbromaghin]

I always had the itch to design a fully integrated darkroom cabinet on wheels to develop film and make prints. Everything would be set up and it could be rolled into a darkened room to start working quickly and roll it into storage when done. Well... maybe one day..

He has those same ideas. He mentioned going to Ikea for a cart.

 

[Axelwik]

I blocked the rear two rooms of a house that I own when converting it into an Airbnb, one of the rooms being my darkroom with the idea that I'd still have plenty of time to use it between guests. Well, the Airbnb has been too successful and I have almost no access. One guest after another.

So I turned a small bathroom in the house where I live into a makeshift darkroom, which has been a bit limiting. Tried a 4x5 enlarger and daylight roller tanks for the bigger prints, but it took too much space and just wasn't ideal, so back down to a small "beginner" C700 6x7 enlarger which works okay for 35, medium format, and contact printing my 5x7 and 8x10 negatives.

Of course that bathroom isn't the ideal solution, so a friend and I cut a hole in the back of the house with my real darkroom and installed a door so I can access the darkroom without disturbing the guests. Working on renovating the whole thing to make it very functional, and looking forward to enlarging 5x7 and 4x5 again with enough room to do things properly!

 

[PerA]

Hi Jason!
I have used the bathroom as my only darkroom since 1992. I published pictures of my darkroom under Darkroom portraits in 2012, and it still looks essentially the same today. My top tips to the beginning darkroom worker with access to a bathroom would be:
1. Doors are seldom light tight. Hang a blackout cloth over the door.
2. Use a board over the bath tub for trays (preferably plastic or stainless steel).
3. Get a sturdy table for the enlarger and place over the toilet seat.
4. Bring the negative carrier to a place next to the bathroom, insert negative and do the de-dusting there (for more space, better lightning conditions and to avoid keeping negatives in a wet environment).
5. To save space and reduce exposure to fumes, get a vertical tank (NOVA). You may still need a few trays, depending on your choice of papers/toning etc.
6. If you have white tiles on the walls (like me), tape black cloth on the wall closest to the enlarger to avoid stray light (although stray light never seemed to be a big problem to me).
7. If you you use selenium (or other nasty) toner, put tray in container with lid. Increase the ventilation while toning if possible (you get dizzy if you inhale this stuff, and I can guarantee it is not good for you).
8. Water and electricity is a dangerous combination. For safety, use a earth-leakage circuit breaker.
9. Even though I have access to running water I could do very well without. Fixed prints can equally well be placed in a container with water and exposed to a final wash at a later stage.
Those are the tips I can think of right now.

 

[juan]

I had installed a large capacity bathroom exhaust fan. I think The recommended size for my room was 60CFM and I got 100CFM.

 

[Christopher Walrath]

Juan, one thing I noticed back in the day is that if there were ANY dust in my space and I kicked the fan on, it would deposit a very goodly amount on the film as it was drying. Something to bear in mind.

 

[Neil Poulsen]

I'm currently finishing up a bathroom darkroom. The rectangular bathroom itself is off a public gallery space, and it's moderate in size. There's the toilet on the left and a sink on the right on one end, and the door opens into the bathroom on the opposite side across the long end.

When it's completed, I'll try to provide photos. In the meantime, I'll describe it. A friend donated a 4x5 Beseler computerized head mounted on a Beseler MCRX XL chassis. I've constructed a stand on wheels for this chassis that will be stored int he gallery space. It can easily be rolled into the bathroom when needed. I've attached a 24'x24" inch piece of half-inch plywood that will swing up to horizontal and serve as a small table for enlarger implements.

In the meantime, I've also constructed a folding table that's about 24"x62" that has six detachable legs made out of plumbing pipe. When assembled, this table is for trays and a washing tub that will fit over the top of the toilet and sink. I'll cut about a 8"x9" hole in the table on the right which will align over the top of the sink basin, so that people will have use of the sink. I have one of those old-style, Kodak syphons for the washing tub that will connect to the sink's faucet for washing prints.

Some way or another, I'll hang darkroom lights from the ceiling. I'll see how light-tight the door is. If not light-tight, I can put a curtain rod over the top of the door outside and hang a black piece of cloth on this rod.

Voila, a pop-up darkroom.

 

[Shaps]

In the early ‘90’s I was a stringer for the Associated Press. Digital cameras had not been a reality then but we did have portable film scanner/transmitter called a Lefax. So we would develop color negatives and scan and then transmit. Many times I would make a bathroom toilet stall into a darkroom with heavy black plastic and duck tape. Or use a changing bag to load the tanks. We had water bath tanks with imerssion heaters to bring our chemicals up to temperature and used nikkor tanks and reels. Film was dried with a hair dryer or a real film dryer made to dry film on the reels. The darkroom would be set up before doing the photography. Scanning and transmitting one negative took about 20 minutes!