Back to Hasselblad Analog

[Timothy Hyde]

After many years of Hasselblad digital, I'm circling back to film. I have a 501cm system with a Matte B screen and waist finder. Well, my eyes seem to have aged more than the system because it's difficult to find reliable focus with this system for me. I just ordered a Hasselblad PM45 Prism Finder 42309, which should help, and I'm wondering if I should swap out the Acute Matte D screen (42204) for something like the Acute Matte D 42217 Split Image with Grid Screen. I'm still pretty good with a rangefinder (Leica, Mamiya 7, etc). Any thoughts on this? Thanks.

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[loccdor]

I find the split image works well for the lowest light and the microprism works the best in bright light. On most of my manual focus SLRs I've got a screen installed that has both.

The 42204 does not seem to have any focusing aid so anything should be a big improvement.

 

[Oldwino]

I find the matte screens easier to focus, but! You need to have the magnifier in sync with your eyesight. Whatever diopter you need, get it. Makes a huge difference.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I have the PME and I changed the screen to a D Matte with long cross hairs to line up horizontal and verticals. I found that the split image got hard to see as the lens largest aperture [smallest f/number] got smaller. With the brighter screen it is easy enough to focus most of the time. Obviously in very dark situations one is better off estimating the distance for some people.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

After many years of Hasselblad digital, I'm circling back to film. I have a 501cm system with a Matte B screen and waist finder. Well, my eyes seem to have aged more than the system because it's difficult to find reliable focus with this system for me. I just ordered a Hasselblad PM45 Prism Finder 42309, which should help, and I'm wondering if I should swap out the Acute Matte D screen (42204) for something like the Acute Matte D 42217 Split Image with Grid Screen. I'm still pretty good with a rangefinder (Leica, Mamiya 7, etc). Any thoughts on this? Thanks.

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I don't find the Hasselblad V system the easiest to focus on, but the 45- and 90-degree viewfinders make it a lot easier. So does the acute Matte screen. Even a regular screen with a split image allows for reliable focus.

 

[Light Capture]

After many years of Hasselblad digital, I'm circling back to film. I have a 501cm system with a Matte B screen and waist finder. Well, my eyes seem to have aged more than the system because it's difficult to find reliable focus with this system for me. I just ordered a Hasselblad PM45 Prism Finder 42309, which should help, and I'm wondering if I should swap out the Acute Matte D screen (42204) for something like the Acute Matte D 42217 Split Image with Grid Screen. I'm still pretty good with a rangefinder (Leica, Mamiya 7, etc). Any thoughts on this? Thanks.

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Are you having issues seeing when something is in focus or the resulting images are out of focus?

 

[Timothy Hyde]

Are you having issues seeing when something is in focus or the resulting images are out of focus?

I haven't exposed a single frame yet, as I'm wholly unsure of the focus. I'm waiting for the PM45 in a couple of days, and if that's still inadequate, I'll buy a split Image and grid screen. I'm determined to make this work as I just scored 100 rolls of frozen expired 220 TXP320. Gulp.

 

[Light Capture]

I haven't exposed a single frame yet, as I'm wholly unsure of the focus. I'm waiting for the PM45 in a couple of days, and if that's still inadequate, I'll buy a split Image and grid screen. I'm determined to make this work as I just scored 100 rolls of frozen expired 220 TXP320. Gulp.

Nice score.
Split screen will be certainly faster and more definitive to focus with if the plain matte isn't clear to you.
PM45 should be much better. The best viewfinder on Hasselblad is chimney finder. Not by much but it's slightly better than the next best option - PM(E)45

 

[Kodachromeguy]

I'm determined to make this work as I just scored 100 rolls of frozen expired 220 TXP320. Gulp.

100 rolls of 220 TP320? There is that much left on earth? Is there any more at this magical source?

 

[mshchem]

I don't use any special diopter on my Blads. I do have progressive lens eyeglasses, this and whatever the standard magnification diopter in the WLF works great for me. The Acute-matte screens are wonderful, matte or split image, both work great.

 

[Sirius Glass]

For some, at times myself too, moving the focus back and forth quickly helps converge on the focus spot.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

For some, at times myself too, moving the focus back and forth quickly helps converge on the focus spot.

interesting idea; must try!

 

[Steven Lee]

I made this comment earlier, then deleted it thinking people know this already, but perhaps I should mention it for newcomers.

The 500-series Hasselblads, unlike every other camera vendor, do not apply any diopter correction to their stock magnifying lens in waist level finders. Every manufacturer I'm aware of ships cameras with viewfinders rated between -0.5 to -1.5 diopters. For most people a regular Hasselblad WLF is hard to focus on (unless they have perfect vision). But if your vision matches the diopter rating of the WLF, Hasselblads are trivial to focus with, in fact the WLF is probably even easier than prisms because the magnification ratio is higher.

Thankfully the WLF lens is replaceable, but finding the right one on eBay these days is a challenge. The later 200-series come with a -1 stock finder lens which is much better for me.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I was sold the WLF for my Hasselblad 503 CX, but it was removed before the sale was completed, put away safely and I also purchased the PME 45 at that time and never had a problem seeing in focus. Also with the Accumat-D view screen, the reflected image is bright and easy to see.

 

[Arthurwg]

Yes, I use the same set-up as you describe. Works perfectly.

 

[Timothy Hyde]

Thanks for all of this advice. Most helpful.

 

[Ai Print]

Just an FYI, the late model chimney finder has a built in diopter adjustment.

 

[Timothy Hyde]

Just an FYI, the late model chimney finder has a built in diopter adjustment.

That's something I didn't know. Thank you. I just ordered one from Japan.

 

[mshchem]

That's something I didn't know. Thank you. I just ordered one from Japan.

The chimney finder works great.

 

[itsdoable]

That's something I didn't know. Thank you. I just ordered one from Japan.

The early model chimney finder also has diopter adjustments.

The folding WLF has the highest magnification, but since the diopter is fixed, getting it set up correctly is more difficult, especially as you get older and your eye's natural focus range decreases. But when set-up, I find it's the best for critical focusing.

 

[Michael Mutmansky]

I've read, but not tested this myself, that the non-Acute Matte D screens may have better contrast to them, but they won't have as even illuminance across the screen.

If that's the case, you might do better for focusing ease by dropping back from a "D" screen to "non-D".

Personally, I use the gridded "D" screens (42217) in my cameras because I want the grid, but that limits me to a split screen, and I think I would much prefer a microprism center instead, but that isn't available in the D screens. Hasselblad did make a "non-D" with microprism (42250), but I've not used one so I don't know how it would work compared to the split center.

 

[JerseyDoug]

The chimney finder gives up some magnification to the WLF (x3 vs. x4.5) but I find that in some lighting conditions the absence of stray light with the chimney finder more than makes up the difference. The only issue for me with the chimney finder is that with it the camera is very bulky

And a bit of V system trivia: Finding the right diopter for the WLF can be an expensive proposition. But the diopter control ring on the later chimney finders (the black ones) have numbered markings and I found that the -1 setting on the chimney finder and a -1 diopter on the WLF work exactly the same for me.

 

[warden]

I made this comment earlier, then deleted it thinking people know this already, but perhaps I should mention it for newcomers.

The 500-series Hasselblads, unlike every other camera vendor, do not apply any diopter correction to their stock magnifying lens in waist level finders. Every manufacturer I'm aware of ships cameras with viewfinders rated between -0.5 to -1.5 diopters. For most people a regular Hasselblad WLF is hard to focus on (unless they have perfect vision). But if your vision matches the diopter rating of the WLF, Hasselblads are trivial to focus with, in fact the WLF is probably even easier than prisms because the magnification ratio is higher.

Thankfully the WLF lens is replaceable, but finding the right one on eBay these days is a challenge. The later 200-series come with a -1 stock finder lens which is much better for me.

The diopter adjustment for my 45 is a lifesaver, allowing me to focus properly. I wish there was one on the WLF magnifier too.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I've read, but not tested this myself, that the non-Acute Matte D screens may have better contrast to them, but they won't have as even illuminance across the screen.

If that's the case, you might do better for focusing ease by dropping back from a "D" screen to "non-D".

Personally, I use the gridded "D" screens (42217) in my cameras because I want the grid, but that limits me to a split screen, and I think I would much prefer a microprism center instead, but that isn't available in the D screens. Hasselblad did make a "non-D" with microprism (42250), but I've not used one so I don't know how it would work compared to the split center.

The microgrid center works well until one starts using lenses further away from the 80mm lens, by f/5.6 the grid looks half blacked out and become much less usable.

 

[eli griggs]

Is there any place in this thread for the older "nc45" or 'upgrades' carrying vital interest to a limited?

Not everyone needs or gets to pick top shelves as they work their gear and find older finders do the one thing they most critically need to do, giving you the best focal image possible, smoothly and constantly appealing
to you and your 'vision', IMO.

Eli