Back to Hasselblad Analog

[itsdoable]

The diopter adjustment for my 45 is a lifesaver, allowing me to focus properly. I wish there was one on the WLF magnifier too.

Back when the Hasselblad V wasn't call "V", you'd go to the lcs dealer, they'd have a set of diopters that you could try out (both WLF and prism), and you could then purchase the correct one. It's a little trickier to get set up now.

 

[Michael Mutmansky]

The microgrid center works well until one starts using lenses further away from the 80mm lens, by f/5.6 the grid looks half blacked out and become much less usable.

Ok, that's somewhat expected, I guess. I think this is the balancing act of all the cameras from back then. I may try the older screen as they aren't terribly expensive (compared to the Acute Matte D ones, that is), but I'mn not holding out much hope it will be terribly good outside of the normal lens based on your comment.

One note, if people use metering pentaprisms, you have to pay attention to the screen you use to adjust for the meter sensitivity... another complication of these bodies.

 

[cowanw]

The early model chimney finder also has diopter adjustments.

The folding WLF has the highest magnification, but since the diopter is fixed, getting it set up correctly is more difficult, especially as you get older and your eye's natural focus range decreases. But when set-up, I find it's the best for critical focusing.

I had to think a bit why I do not have trouble with any of my finders which vary between a 500 stock finder to -1 to -3. and the magic answer is progressive eye glasses. I can tilt my head to make any of these work.

 

[calico]

My experience of split image/prism type screen vs 42204 (clear, just crosshairs):

I find it MUCH easier to focus using the 42204. I sold my split image screen a long time ago and have the 42204 in all my Hassies.

The subject will kind of pop into focus with the clear screen, and I can also sometimes see the faint texture of the screen when I'm in focus. And it's nice to not have distraction of split image/grid.

I use a PM45, with the built-in diopter adjusted for my eyesight. For a while I had to use the accessory diopter (which you attach under rubber eyecup on PM45), because the built-in one didn't go as far as I needed. But now my eyesight has changed, and the built-in diopter is enough. The accessory diopter is extremely hard to find, BTW.

 

[Flashcam]

This is really old school, but I use a tripod most of the time, or a monopod. Makes it easy but it does really depend on what and how you shoot. There's also this fold to the side magnifier by Hasselblad that is great for anything from portrait distance on out. It works with several prism finders and useful for maximum sharpness. It also slows you down a bit for the first shot, but it does great as your eyes get older. (I now no longer wonder what "older eyes" means.) Allows better focus, slower but better than "auto out of focus". If you're shooting proactively rather than reactively the manual camera works just as well as the new high dollar models. Then you get a full frame DSLR if you need to "be commercially competitive" and shoot very fast. Im finding that the mirrorless cameras are difficult to see the scene or subject and see the focus easily also. Hasselblads are still the most fun to use. Just remember, once your eyes get old, then goes you back. Monopod.

 

[Slixtiesix]

I agree with the advice to look for a diopter. I switched the regular magnifier of my 555ELD´s waist level finder to the -1 version. It was a significant improvement.

 

[Jan-Peter]

Nice to see how many analogue Hasselblads are alive, indeed! - Yes! - I use a screen with horizontal and vertical lining also including a fresnel lens; this gives me always a god focus and proper horizontal photos particularly when using the Distagon CF-30mm.

Have fun all of you when taking photos with a Hasselblad!

Jan-Peter