I don't find the Hasselblad V system the easiest to focus on, but the 45- and 90-degree viewfinders make it a lot easier. So does the acute Matte screen. Even a regular screen with a split image allows for reliable focus.After many years of Hasselblad digital, I'm circling back to film. I have a 501cm system with a Matte B screen and waist finder. Well, my eyes seem to have aged more than the system because it's difficult to find reliable focus with this system for me. I just ordered a Hasselblad PM45 Prism Finder 42309, which should help, and I'm wondering if I should swap out the Acute Matte D screen (42204) for something like the Acute Matte D 42217 Split Image with Grid Screen. I'm still pretty good with a rangefinder (Leica, Mamiya 7, etc). Any thoughts on this? Thanks.
After many years of Hasselblad digital, I'm circling back to film. I have a 501cm system with a Matte B screen and waist finder. Well, my eyes seem to have aged more than the system because it's difficult to find reliable focus with this system for me. I just ordered a Hasselblad PM45 Prism Finder 42309, which should help, and I'm wondering if I should swap out the Acute Matte D screen (42204) for something like the Acute Matte D 42217 Split Image with Grid Screen. I'm still pretty good with a rangefinder (Leica, Mamiya 7, etc). Any thoughts on this? Thanks.
I haven't exposed a single frame yet, as I'm wholly unsure of the focus. I'm waiting for the PM45 in a couple of days, and if that's still inadequate, I'll buy a split Image and grid screen. I'm determined to make this work as I just scored 100 rolls of frozen expired 220 TXP320. Gulp.Are you having issues seeing when something is in focus or the resulting images are out of focus?
I haven't exposed a single frame yet, as I'm wholly unsure of the focus. I'm waiting for the PM45 in a couple of days, and if that's still inadequate, I'll buy a split Image and grid screen. I'm determined to make this work as I just scored 100 rolls of frozen expired 220 TXP320. Gulp.
I'm determined to make this work as I just scored 100 rolls of frozen expired 220 TXP320. Gulp.
For some, at times myself too, moving the focus back and forth quickly helps converge on the focus spot.
Just an FYI, the late model chimney finder has a built in diopter adjustment.
That's something I didn't know. Thank you. I just ordered one from Japan.
That's something I didn't know. Thank you. I just ordered one from Japan.
The diopter adjustment for my 45 is a lifesaver, allowing me to focus properly. I wish there was one on the WLF magnifier too.I made this comment earlier, then deleted it thinking people know this already, but perhaps I should mention it for newcomers.
The 500-series Hasselblads, unlike every other camera vendor, do not apply any diopter correction to their stock magnifying lens in waist level finders. Every manufacturer I'm aware of ships cameras with viewfinders rated between -0.5 to -1.5 diopters. For most people a regular Hasselblad WLF is hard to focus on (unless they have perfect vision). But if your vision matches the diopter rating of the WLF, Hasselblads are trivial to focus with, in fact the WLF is probably even easier than prisms because the magnification ratio is higher.
Thankfully the WLF lens is replaceable, but finding the right one on eBay these days is a challenge. The later 200-series come with a -1 stock finder lens which is much better for me.
I've read, but not tested this myself, that the non-Acute Matte D screens may have better contrast to them, but they won't have as even illuminance across the screen.
If that's the case, you might do better for focusing ease by dropping back from a "D" screen to "non-D".
Personally, I use the gridded "D" screens (42217) in my cameras because I want the grid, but that limits me to a split screen, and I think I would much prefer a microprism center instead, but that isn't available in the D screens. Hasselblad did make a "non-D" with microprism (42250), but I've not used one so I don't know how it would work compared to the split center.
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