Back to basics with a Weston light meter.

[Saganich]

To me, a photograph is a personal interpretation of a scene. Until I learn how to interpret that scene and then paint it with light using the tools at hand I am not in control of the outcome. Therefore I am not achieving the image seen in my mind's eye. When I am successful at achieving the pre-conceived image as a negative, darkroom printing is remarkably easy and the result is a physical print to be proud of.

I just want to share this experience as it has been rather profound.[/QUOTE]


Agreed it is a good experience, which in my case seems never ending. When you get those low tones right by design (rather than divine intervention) it is a good feeling. My understanding after reading all the "zone masters" is they still had a lot of darkroom work to do but the previsualization gets you 60-70% of where you thought you wanted to be. The hardest part is figuring out what in the scene should be a zone 1 or 2 or 3 in a print since your eye sees it differently. I'm surprised at how often I get it wrong erring on the "keep shadow detail" side and end up exposing more than I really wanted.

 

[Silverinsunlight]

I can't visualize to save my life. My first meter was a Sekonic. My current is a Euromaster II, last production run. I meter with the translucent cover at the subject location. The meter has never failed me, unlike everything with a battery in my photo gear. The meter is accurate. Its user introduces errors. Ah. that should read "spontaneous creative choices."

 

[Sirius Glass]

I can't visualize to save my life. My first meter was a Sekonic. My current is a Euromaster II, last production run. I meter with the translucent cover at the subject location. The meter has never failed me, unlike everything with a battery in my photo gear. The meter is accurate. Its user introduces errors. Ah. that should read "spontaneous creative choices."

The meter should be placed at the subject and the dome aimed towards where the camera will be. That is how an incident meter is used. See if you can find a manual for the meter.

 

[GRHazelton]

Another shout out for George at Quality Light Metrics. He calibrated my Pentax Spotmeter, the analog model, AND revived the tiny light which illuminates the meter scale in the viewfinder. Without that little light taking deep shadow readings is virtually impossible. All this for about $100, and a really quick turnaround time!

 

[Silverinsunlight]

The meter should be placed at the subject and the dome aimed towards where the camera will be. That is how an incident meter is used. See if you can find a manual for the meter.

That's how I've always used it. Dome aimed at camera. I've got the original manual, a bit tattered.

 

[Sirius Glass]

That's how I've always used it. Dome aimed at camera. I've got the original manual, a bit tattered.

Sometimes you can find a manual to download at https://www.butkus.org/chinon/
If you download a manual that is useful please donate $3US to that website to support it.

 

[Chan Tran]

Lately I have been trying to dramatically improve my analog photography with a better understanding of the basics of light capture.

Stepping back in time with my recently calibrated Weston 3 light meter has really opened my eyes to the skill that was and is still required to attain a black and white analog image as visualized. Exposing and developing a useable negative is relatively easy but capturing the exact image that is seen in my mind's eye has been elusive to this point. My recent step into medium format has really intensified my desire to get back to basics and learn to get the results I imagine.

So why a Weston? I can almost hear the head shaking.

Well, it is dead accurate. George at Quality Light Metrics is the man. And, as I investigate the capabilities of this ingenious little gadget in regards to the zone system, it is really quite capable. But as with any form of technology it does have it's limitations.

Still photography has been my recent interest in regard to fine tuning both my exposure and development. The ability to control the environment and take my time has proven extremely valuable in this regard. I pick an interesting household item and manufacture a low key scene using window light or indoor lighting in the hall against a dark room. Visualize the image I want in my head and then measure the scene with the Weston. It is necessary to get very close to the subject and slowly sweep the meter finding the high and low values but I am surprised at how intuitive this meter can be when one takes the time to learn how to use it.

Then there is landscape. This is where I am floundering a bit with the Weston. I have to admit that a spot meter is a far superior tool for this application. My Nikon F4's spot metering capabilities coupled with the Weston have taught me quite a bit. I will meter the landscape with the Weston and create a plan of attack. Then spot meter the same scene as a reality check. In my opinion, every photographer should have this experience. What an eye opener!

So what is the point?

To me, a photograph is a personal interpretation of a scene. Until I learn how to interpret that scene and then paint it with light using the tools at hand I am not in control of the outcome. Therefore I am not achieving the image seen in my mind's eye. When I am successful at achieving the pre-conceived image as a negative, darkroom printing is remarkably easy and the result is a physical print to be proud of.

I just want to share this experience as it has been rather profound.

Dead accurate? How accurate is it?

 

[ic-racer]

Spot meter is only as good as one's ability to guess what Zone or density or print value one wants the scene 'spot' to become. It is a creative endeavor; sometimes it works out fine, and other times, not.

 

[Darko Kamer]

For landscape shooting, spotmetering is the way to go IMO. One gets pretty good at knowing what part of the scene is the zone 6 or 7 part of the image and the part of the scene is the zone 3 or 4 part of the image. After maybe the first 10 rolls of film I rarely mis-meterd after that.In the beginning I wrote down for each shot how I metered and what logic i used then compared the developed image . Not that difficult and doesn't seem very much like guesswork after a while.

 

[Marcelo Paniagua]

I tío used Sekonic L-398 Studio Master. Great light meter.

 

[Arvee]

I can't speak for the OP, but "dead accurate" for me means it agrees with what I've determined is my personal ISO for the film and paper I use. As long as my exposures are easy to print, it doesn't matter if my meter agrees with others and stays consistent. I use my Sekonic for 95% of my situations, rarely need my spot meter.

Comes from an old Metrology term: Dead Nuts On = "0.0" error.