Back to basics with a Weston light meter.

Saganich

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To me, a photograph is a personal interpretation of a scene. Until I learn how to interpret that scene and then paint it with light using the tools at hand I am not in control of the outcome. Therefore I am not achieving the image seen in my mind's eye. When I am successful at achieving the pre-conceived image as a negative, darkroom printing is remarkably easy and the result is a physical print to be proud of.

I just want to share this experience as it has been rather profound.[/QUOTE]


Agreed it is a good experience, which in my case seems never ending. When you get those low tones right by design (rather than divine intervention) it is a good feeling. My understanding after reading all the "zone masters" is they still had a lot of darkroom work to do but the previsualization gets you 60-70% of where you thought you wanted to be. The hardest part is figuring out what in the scene should be a zone 1 or 2 or 3 in a print since your eye sees it differently. I'm surprised at how often I get it wrong erring on the "keep shadow detail" side and end up exposing more than I really wanted.
 
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I can't visualize to save my life. My first meter was a Sekonic. My current is a Euromaster II, last production run. I meter with the translucent cover at the subject location. The meter has never failed me, unlike everything with a battery in my photo gear. The meter is accurate. Its user introduces errors. Ah. that should read "spontaneous creative choices."
 

Sirius Glass

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The meter should be placed at the subject and the dome aimed towards where the camera will be. That is how an incident meter is used. See if you can find a manual for the meter.
 

GRHazelton

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Another shout out for George at Quality Light Metrics. He calibrated my Pentax Spotmeter, the analog model, AND revived the tiny light which illuminates the meter scale in the viewfinder. Without that little light taking deep shadow readings is virtually impossible. All this for about $100, and a really quick turnaround time!
 
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The meter should be placed at the subject and the dome aimed towards where the camera will be. That is how an incident meter is used. See if you can find a manual for the meter.
That's how I've always used it. Dome aimed at camera. I've got the original manual, a bit tattered.
 

Sirius Glass

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Chan Tran

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Dead accurate? How accurate is it?
 

ic-racer

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Spot meter is only as good as one's ability to guess what Zone or density or print value one wants the scene 'spot' to become. It is a creative endeavor; sometimes it works out fine, and other times, not.
 

Darko Kamer

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For landscape shooting, spotmetering is the way to go IMO. One gets pretty good at knowing what part of the scene is the zone 6 or 7 part of the image and the part of the scene is the zone 3 or 4 part of the image. After maybe the first 10 rolls of film I rarely mis-meterd after that.In the beginning I wrote down for each shot how I metered and what logic i used then compared the developed image . Not that difficult and doesn't seem very much like guesswork after a while.
 

Arvee

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Comes from an old Metrology term: Dead Nuts On = "0.0" error.
 
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