B&W 35mm from China

[BWKate]

While I was travelling in China I bought some Lucky 100 asa black and white film. I was wondering if anyone has tried it? I have the developing times. It's the only thing on the inside of the box that's not in Chinese characters. I do understand D76 and 20 degrees celsius. LOL

I just wondered if it was like any other B&W film?

 

[Helen B]

I tried some Lucky SHD 100 and it was unlike any other B&W film I have used recently, apart from HIE, because the anti-halation layer wasn't very effective. Great if you like that effect.

Best,
Helen

 

[BWKate]

Helen,

Are you saying that it kind of looks like infrared?

 

[Helen B]

Kate,

Only in the sense that the highlights spread - they had haloes. The film samples I tried had poor anti-halation properties. There are people who want that, I guess.

I developed mine in W2D2+ at the same time I use for APX 100.

Best,
Helen

 

[abeku]

This could perhaps be a good starting point for you: Expose it at 80 iso and develop it in D-76 (1+1) for 8 minutes at 20C. Works nicely for me. I'm one of those people who enjoy the characteristics of Lucky SHD films. Once you come to terms with the anti-halation properties, you'll find occasions when they are appropriate.

 

[Gerald Koch]

For those interested J and C Photo sells the Lucky films.

 

[firecracker]

For those interested J and C Photo sells the Lucky films.

http://www.luckyfilm.com/eng/products_1_3.html

Is this the "Lucky" brand you've been talking about? It's not the same as Fujimoto/Lucky, right? Kind of confusing.

But the interesting thing is that the Chinese Lucky lists a lot of photo products, and I'm dead curious about them! If Holga is justified by some people (but not me personally though), why not photo supplies?

Has anyone ever tried any of their stuff besides film?

 

[abeku]

No, Chinese Lucky has no relation to Fujimoto/Lucky so far as I know.
I haven't tried anything else but the films they are making, but I sure would be interrested in trying out some of the papers.
There are additional Chinese brands out there, e.g. ERA. They seem to have a fair supply of b&w materials too.

 

[George Papantoniou]

I tried some Lucky SHD 100 and it was unlike any other B&W film I have used recently, apart from HIE, because the anti-halation layer wasn't very effective. Great if you like that effect.

Best,
Helen

If I wanted this effect, I guess that I could let some FP4 4x5 sheets drown in water for a while (in the dark !!!) then dry them and shoot them... water removes FP4's anti-halo layer effectively, doesn't it ?

 

[srs5694]

I tried some Lucky SHD 100 and it was unlike any other B&W film I have used recently, apart from HIE, because the anti-halation layer wasn't very effective. Great if you like that effect.

Can you compare this to Foma films in 35mm? I'm curious because the Fomapan films have poor (perhaps no) anti-halation layers, but they're the only films I've used that are like this (I've never used HIE or Lucky films), so I don't really know just where the Fomapan films are on this measure.

 

[Paul Howell]

I have tested Forma and Lucky, I agree that Lucky has a look all of its own, the Forma I used tinted the presoak water blue so I guess that it has some anti-halation layers.

 

[srs5694]

I have tested Forma and Lucky, I agree that Lucky has a look all of its own, the Forma I used tinted the presoak water blue so I guess that it has some anti-halation layers.

What format was that? I was referring to 35mm, and I've never seen this effect with Foma films in that format. I gather that Foma's got different bases (and perhaps anti-halation qualities) in different formats.

 

[Donald Qualls]

If I wanted this effect, I guess that I could let some FP4 4x5 sheets drown in water for a while (in the dark !!!) then dry them and shoot them... water removes FP4's anti-halo layer effectively, doesn't it ?

Unfortunately, water also very effectively removes sensitizing dyes, so your FP4+ would probably be more like ISO 25 than 125 after you soak and dry it (in total darkness, of course). Actually, if you *want* to remove the antihalation, it would probably work better to use water with about a half teaspoon per quart of sodium carbonate; this will swell the gelatin and let the dye dissolve out more readily. A quick dip in common stop bath and then a wash (the Ilford wash is probably overkill for this process, but a couple changes of water to clear out the acetic acid would be good) before hanging to dry will return the gelatin to a "normalized" state.

I think it's probably easier to buy Lucky film, unless you need this effect in 4x5 -- Lucky is available in ISO 100 and 400, 35 mm and 120, but not in sheet form to the best of my knowledge.

 

[Paul Howell]

What format was that? I was referring to 35mm, and I've never seen this effect with Foma films in that format. I gather that Foma's got different bases (and perhaps anti-halation qualities) in different formats.

Your right I tested the 120 format.

 

[Paul Howell]

What format was that? I was referring to 35mm, and I've never seen this effect with Foma films in that format. I gather that Foma's got different bases (and perhaps anti-halation qualities) in different formats.

You are right, I tested both Luck and Foma in the 120 format.