I would love to print this image so much in my darkroom:This thread has reminded me that I have some 35mm IR film in my fridge salad draw. I'm waiting for some constant sunshine here in the UK before using it... It might be a while...
I love the tones in your images, but I actually prefer the ISO 12 images, but then I do prefer darker prints and the others could be printed that way.
As for exposure, when I've used it in the past with my Pentax MZ5N 35mm camera, I exposed with the IR filter on the lens used and bracketed the exposures over 2f's in 1/2f stop increments. Surprisingly the cameras meter did really well and I got a good set of negatives.
But on both film and digital exposures, I never used the IR red line on the lens, but used a middle f-stop of about f8 to be on the safe side. The red line was only slightly different than the 'normal' focus mark on the lenses anyway.
Terry S
UK
Here are my results.
I did HC-110 1+63 for 12 minutes. For most films, that's about a +45% time increase over D-76 stock. The D-76 stock time for Svema Foto 200 and Ilford Delta 100 are both 8.5 minutes, and HC-110 H 1+63 for Delta is 12.
Nevertheless, it's possible it's underdeveloped by a stop or so. But I also think the 720 IR filter doesn't result in a 2 stop reduction to ISO 50. It seems more like 25 at best with it.
I had Acros 100 in the dev tank too. Its normal time is 10 minutes in this developer, resulting in a +20% over-development.
Settings were always for Sunny f/11. So no trickery by a light meter. It was the middle of the day in sunlight in all the shots.
Acros 100:
View attachment 420107
Svema Foto 200 (no filter):
View attachment 420108
Svema Foto 200 (Hoya 720 IR):
View attachment 420114
Still, should be hand-holdable by going down to f/5.6 and developing longer. These will probably scan okay but I don't think you could print them very well. I just got a bulk loader today so that should help from the scratches that came from doing this in a changing bag. This is definitely the thinnest film I've ever used! It's kind of hard to get it on a reel. It wanted to float on top of the bubbles of my Photoflo solution instead of submerging.
I need to find my notes for when I developed it in HC-110, but iirc I used HC-110 B for 8 minutes. Not sure how I got that time but it did work well.
Made a decent chunk of this film this weekend, only around 30 rolls till I’m caught up.
You just use your fingernail to tear the label where the paper is folded over, and leave it on. I have experimented with several methods of sealing the roll and this is the best way to do it besides masking tape with handwritten label. The big manufacturers like Kodak and Ilford use specially manufactured labels that come off without residue, I suspect they use water activated adhesive and only wet the very ends of the label. I have no way to replicate this.Those are just Avery labels used to keep the rolls sealed, right? Do they peel away without tearing the backing paper or leaving much residue?
Made a decent chunk of this film this weekend, only around 30 rolls till I’m caught up.
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