Anyone tried FPP ISO 3 colour film? On sale...

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Minolta93

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I did a color test of 3383 in daylight, filtered through a pack of Yellow 8, 85B, and a piece of cleared c-41 film base and developed C-41. The results are what you'd expect shooting hand-held bulb exposure macro on a windy day, but a direct reversal of the negatives yields close to lifelike color, maybe even a touch too warm. Film speed didn't seem to be impacted by filtering as much as I thought it would, but confirming that would take something a bit more scientific.

View attachment 305968
View attachment 305967

Edit: and a more carefully adjusted single frame from above. The yellow 8 filter definitely isn't needed. The amount of warming for more accurate color rendering is probably somewhere between a regular 85 and the 85b+C-41 base combo depending on cloud cover / season / daylight color temperature.

View attachment 305970

Most folks would probably be better off with Vision3 and an ND filter but maybe developing in CD-2 will boost it's appeal as a slide.

Next I'll try contact printing c-41 & ecn-2 negatives directly onto the 3383 and process in C-41. The film base plus an incandescent light source seems just about the right color temperature. So far, I'm convinced that the only way to get a fully analog positive image out of this stock is to start with a negative, as designed.

I would like to see the results of contact printing as intended when you get around to it.
 
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I tried photographing a variety of negatives using a very short, mostly fogged 3383 remainder from my mamiya 16 cassette. The negatives were poorly illuminated with a 40W incandescent bulb and given 1/5s exposure @ f2.8, developed ecp-2, scanned as positive.

2383_ecp2s.jpg

Top to bottom: Pro Image 100 (dense), Gold 400, Vision3 500T w/ 85B, Kodak 2254. (and some ektachrome peeking in at the edge).

The last two frames are the 'cleanest' and were taken through Y50 and M50 filtration, respectively.

2383_Y50.jpg 2383_m50.jpg

Not unexpectedly, 2254 needs even heavier filtration to print with anything close to a normal color balance.

Probably worth another attempt in a 35mm body with a faster lens to get the exposure into the 1/20s+ range and tweak the filtration.

Edit: Another round, same lamp. Unfiltered, Y50, M50, Y50+M50

_sstarburst.jpg


hevly.jpg

This stuff would be amazing (and affordable?) in 4x5 or 8x10 sheets.
 
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awty

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Leica M7, Summicron 28 Asph v2, Slow Your Roll ISO 1.5






I finally shot a roll @ 6iso using a Nikon f100. Results were underexposed, even with an orange filter was very blue, nearly no colour.
Will try again giving it 2 more stops and see how it is.
Looks nice with lights, can get a nice jade green with fluorescent lights and reds and pinks stand out.

How are you colour correcting?
 
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Huss

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I finally shot a roll @ 6iso using a Nikon f100. Results were underexposed, even with an orange filter was very blue, nearly no colour.
Will try again giving it 2 more stops and see how it is.
Looks nice with lights, can get a nice jade green with fluorescent lights and reds and pinks stand out.

How are you colour correcting?

You shot a roll of the ISO 3 film, but rated it at ISO 6, then added an orange filter?
That would make it at least 1 stop underexposed (assuming your camera compensates for the orange filter).

I color correct with negativelabpro when I convert. Any of the predominantly blue images I have shown are not color corrected.
 

jnk

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what a perfect thread– pix, delicious commentary, more pix
thnx
 

awty

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You shot a roll of the ISO 3 film, but rated it at ISO 6, then added an orange filter?
That would make it at least 1 stop underexposed (assuming your camera compensates for the orange filter).

I color correct with negativelabpro when I convert. Any of the predominantly blue images I have shown are not color corrected.

6 iso was what was on the box. F100 has TTL metering.
Also probably didn't develop long enough for the temp I was using.
Also Also I wasn't sure the bulk loader was defective or not.
Also Also Also, I just bought a non working F100 and it was my first test run.
Have capacity to do around 15 more rolls before chemistry and film is completely exhausted. Plenty of scope to fix some user errors.
Also Also Also Also am going to try my hand at colour printing where I will make many more errors.
Hopefully I will end up with a few pretty colour pictures to hang on the wall.


IMG_20220913_162036.jpg
 

awty

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Stopping down 2 stops to iso 1.5 made a big difference.
Better colours out doors when using an orange filter.
Indoors no filter
I need to hone my channel mixing skills.
Need to hold the camera very steady

Indoors natural light 6 sec exposure, no filter, no reciprocity correction, nikon f100, f1.8 50mm D lense

18 09 22 iso 1 5354.jpg


f 1.8 no filter hand held.

18 09 22 iso 1 5360.jpg


Same as above

18 09 22 iso 1 5364.jpg


Out doors, f 2.8 20mm d lens with gradual orange filter

18 09 22 iso 1 5359.jpg


Out doors with out filter

18 09 22 iso 1 5362.jpg


Indoors with a tripod and no filter I think you can get something quite useable, out doors its a bit harder.
 
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Huss

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6 iso was what was on the box. F100 has TTL metering.
Also probably didn't develop long enough for the temp I was using.
Also Also I wasn't sure the bulk loader was defective or not.
Also Also Also, I just bought a non working F100 and it was my first test run.
Have capacity to do around 15 more rolls before chemistry and film is completely exhausted. Plenty of scope to fix some user errors.
Also Also Also Also am going to try my hand at colour printing where I will make many more errors.
Hopefully I will end up with a few pretty colour pictures to hang on the wall.


View attachment 316525

Yah, I shot it at ISO 3 which was what was recommended by my seller. And at 3 it did to come out exactly blazing with brightness!
 

MattKing

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