I used professionally Salut, then Kiev-88 in 80-90th. Extremely bad mechanic is the main problem, not lenses. The only positive is the price & Arsat 30mm. Pentagon Six much better, I also had a full set with 5 lenses in early 2000.
With nowadays prices Bronica, Mamiya, Fuji are the better choice.
But of cause, the result depends not from your gear only
Here is the photo taken in 1981 with Russian TLR Liubitel costed about $10:
I had a Kiev 60 which took beautiful sharp photos with the Arsat 80mm it came with. But it was heavy and always felt like it would break when I wound on. Picture spacing varied. The 6C (or 6S) is an earlier version with the shutter button the other side if I remember right.
More recently I had a Kiev 88 and an 88CM. The 88 has the foil shutters, screw mount, and despite it's decrepit cosmetic state it worked fine. The 88CM was one of the Hartblei reworked versions, cloth shutter, Pentacon 6 breech mount etc, and it worked very smoothly. I didn't like the film magazines with either (the old style backs seem easier to me than the new style). You have to be careful to wind on before changing shutter speed.
The lenses can be adapted to other mounts (eg Mamiya 645, M42, Sony E).
I have two 3.5/30 fisheyes, a Zodiak version that was modified for Hasselblad, and an Arsat version in Kiev-88 mount.Yes, I am sure. I went back and examined it; I am certain there is no clear rear filter on the lens. I just have the Yellow, Orange and Light Blue filters that are attached to the lens case top.
I think I might have found the issue; the Yellow filter which I placed on the lens initially has some sort of malformed thread that does not allow it to fully seat. After carefully cleaning the threads of all three of the filters, the Light Blue filter fits the best and is almost flush with the end of the lens. The Yellow sits almost one full millimeter above where the blue filter sits.
I will probably remove the filter element from the yellow ring and move it to one of the other rings for now and then try to find a replacement clear filter in the 38x0.5mm size.
Many thanks to you both for the suggestions! It caused me to go back and look at the problem with a fresh set of eyes!
I will try a roll and see what transpires. The light blue (80A?) should be fine for either color or b&w until I can find another clear filter.
I own a 1979 Salyut-S, and so far, I'm liking it. But it was broken when I got it, and I spent a number of hours learning how to repair it. I used good-quality new adhesives, lubricants and other materials sourced from USA, Switzerland and Japan. And the result is a camera which operates smoothly as you'd expect from a higher-end design.
My impression of Soviet cameras is that, perhaps when the factories were properly funded, quality could be very good. But in more difficult times, the factories devised "creative" solutions in order to meet their production quotas, and sometimes these solutions involved using older-style parts, or batches of parts which had previously been rejected.
Very nice photo! My lens came with 3 color filters and no clear filter. Does your clear filter have any appearance of being a diopter or is it simply clear glass?
23/9Update here :
I received my Kiev 80. It was order from ebay and took awhile to reach me. I thought I might had bought a defective camera after I spotted the film/camera release indicators are in red while mirror is lowered. When it reached my hand I can't crank the shutter as well .
Since it could be defective so I tried without much care. Once I pull out the shutter speed dial and tried on B , it cranked . Hoorray !!! I see the bronze metal curtains moved and all gears just making sounds like as if they are rushing back to its right place! All the speeds are right. Then I lubricated the reachable gears (lower part) with clock oil and it instantly gives a better work .
There are minor problems I have noticed :
- Sometimes after changing speed I can't press the shutter release . I have to pull the speed dial out and turn it for/backward 1-2 times then it works
- I have to keep the release pressed for 1/4 and 1/2 otherwise the second curtain just comes out bit and stay there. Do I have to keep the shutter release pressed for 1/4 and 1/2 speed setting ?
1) is not normal; 2) is expected. You have to keep the release depressed during the entire exposure for the curtains to cycle properly. Usually not a problem for the fast speeds.
- Sometimes after changing speed I can't press the shutter release . I have to pull the speed dial out and turn it for/backward 1-2 times then it works
- I have to keep the release pressed for 1/4 and 1/2 otherwise the second curtain just comes out bit and stay there. Do I have to keep the shutter release pressed for 1/4 and 1/2 speed setting ?
I was given an 80 with 3 lens, two of the lens did not work, the back had light leaks, and the focal plane shutters were off. I just gave it away to someone who said they have it serviced. I know there are some that have rebuilt in Kiev that users really like, the lens are cheap, but for the money I would get a Bronica.
If it was in the camera itself I think it will show up on all frames. The magazine itself handles the frame spacing. The amount the take-up spool turns depends on the frame number counter.
But yeah, the crunchy winding always makes me cringe a little bit, hoping it works properly.
Ruined a roll last week apparently. 1/30th was capping and this particular magazine did not have any light seals in it -_-
Another roll shot at 1/125 with another magazine was fine.
The mirror stuck at the up.
I thought its dead so I have given this camera with little snap and force on winding the dial , and then the shutter runs again. that is real crazyI don't think these could be solved easily.
LOL now I know why Kiev 80/88 has such bad reputation. Its great when it works; and when it is down obviously it is a disaster. I wonder its original , the Hasselblad 1000F / 1600F could have the same problem .
Any camera will fail with incorrect handling. From your explanation, and your prior comments on cranking around the shutter speed dial, you've probably already damaged the gear train IF it wasn't damaged when you bought it.
Did you read any user manuals or just pick up the camera and think you could instinctively use it?
As for spacing, there is a very specific way you have to load the magazine to avoid spacing issues.
For the most part, these cameras have a bad reputation because people refuse to learn how to use the camera properly and blame the camera for not operating in a manner they assume is proper.
Check out how many cries for help titled "Help my Hasselblad 500C is Jammed" exist online for the very same reason; failure to operate the camera properly.
Anyway, it's your money and your camera.
No, I was implying that it could have been bad before you got it, as people do not tend to read the manual and try to use it without knowing how it works.
You did state that. "I have given this camera with little snap and force on winding the dial" which could be a very bad thing.
If the tests with the new back do not improve your situation, Arax still services these cameras in Kiev, Ukraine. I had 3 bodies serviced by them and they work fine, but be sure to send the magazines with them to match them to the camera body.
Sounds like you have already developed a dislike for the camera, so switching to a Bronica or a Hasselblad might be a better option than investing in a camera you already distrust.
I have never tried any East German or Russian cameras and so that's why I give it a try
Update
I bought another Kiev 88 but was heavily damaged during the shipping. The carton box seems have been soaked with water and dropped hard on the ground . The camera body didn't survive, except the film backs and the lens . I think I get get the focusing screen as backup ?
I like theMC Volna-3 , it is much lighter than the Vega 12 . I have sent the MC Volna-3 for CLA and now ready for work .
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