Ansco 130 user experience, questions, comments, appreciation...

chuckroast

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In what proportion have you added glycin to dektol?
 

john_s

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Does anyone know what the reasonably expected Benzotriazole stock shelf life might be? I have some ancient Zone VI bottles here that are likely 25+ years on the shelf.
Benzotriazole is a permanent addition to recirculating water boiler systems (as an anticorrosive) so I think it is quite a durable compound!
 

Don_ih

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In what proportion have you added glycin to dektol?

Somewhere around a spoonful to a litre of stock. I don't think I ever weighed it.

Test your benzo by adding some to working-strength paper developer and see if it does what it should.
 

DREW WILEY

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I always mix just enough for the next session, and at that point, dilute it 1:3 for use. Dektol and 130 deliver different image tones. I gave up on Dektol decades ago. Benzo will cool either developer, at least at first glance. But if you want to use gold toner to cool the print afterwards, you actually want the more finely divided and hence warmer silver dev which KBr delivers. If you do want to experiment with Benz, use only 1/10 the gram wt as KBr.
 
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chuckroast

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When you say "in alcohol" are you mixing the benzo in just alcohol or just using it to dissolve the benzo and then coming up to full volume with distilled water?
 

chuckroast

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So you are recommending 0.55g/l of benzo in lieu of KBr.

In #16, @craigclu is recommending 15ml of 1% benzo solution, which works out to be 0.15g/l.

Could either of you comment on how this almost 4x difference might work out in practice?
 

DREW WILEY

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Benz is a much stronger restrainer per gram wt than KBr.

My own Kbr quanitity for 130 is 4 g / liter; therefore substitute Benz would be 0.4 g/ L. That has the same effect in terms of restraining highlights and other printing characteristics. You can fine tune it according to your own needs, or even experiment by combining limited amounts of the two if you wish.

Another cold tone tweak to 130 is to double the hydroquinone. AA sometimes did that. I prefer the original formula, and rely on post-toning using gold chloride to cool the image on appropriate papers.
 
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Alex Benjamin

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Don_ih

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I'd say that produces less contrast and a warmer print. That shouldn't be able to print 5 sheets of 8x10. I do believe that recipe is wrong.
 
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Alex Benjamin

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I'd say that produces less contrast and a warmer print. That shouldn't be able to print 5 sheets of 8x10. I do believe that recipe is wrong.

Here's what he says in The Print (Appendix 1):

 

Don_ih

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Here's what he says

That's fine. But he was likely using higher contrast papers and that developer would probably be dead in no time. It would also be pointless to try that with any currently made papers - if you wanted realistic results from your contrast filters.
 

DREW WILEY

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A bit of clarification - AA generally hated warm low-contrast prints when it came to his own work. The notable exception was very large prints which didn't hold together well when printed cold and contrasty. Some of his most famous images were based on negs far more grainy and less sharp than what is typical today. If the original was on 8x10 film, anything bigger than a 20x24 inch print size could be dicey, with a few exceptions. Therefore, instead of printing them dramatic in his stereotypical style, he printed them soft, warmish, and poetic instead, and on matte paper. Viewers tend to back away from these to take it all in, since up close they're rather fuzzy.

Or rather, he mainly had them printed that way under his own supervision. Despite all the folklore, his own darkroom wasn't very well equipped for that kind of work compared to commercial labs. I once had a lot of opportunity to see the largest exhibition ever assembled of his bigger prints - well, more than see them; but that's a different story.

He seems to have experimented with different developers. But his standby was ordinary Dektol, supplemented by Selectol Soft, which can trend a little warm with certain papers. I've always been a little disappointed in the slightly greenish-black tinge Dektol lent to his images.
In later years, his primary paper was FB glossy Ilfobrom Galerie Graded. Nowadays, any oversized cold tone image is likely to be a "remastered" digitally sharpened commercial inkjet authorized by his Trust, offered for sale at a pittance compared to what a fuzzy vintage version would sell for.
 

john_s

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Here's what he says in The Print (Appendix 1):

I always wondered about whether that was correct because to add, for example, the amount of hydroquinone to make the developer the same as the classic formula, another Litre of water would have to be added, making the dilution much greater (and it would still be half strength). If I were doing something like adding HQ during a session, I would use a concentrated solution of it to avoid excessive dilution. These days one could make a concentrated solution of HQ in propylene glycol.
 
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