Forever.
Incidentally, Ansco 130 will develop your paper even if the glycin is dead when you mix it. It is essentially dektol with glycin and more bromide added.
I've added glycin to homemade dektol lots of times. It makes it last longer. And it makes the development slow down at the normal "done" point but actually keep going in the midtones without just fogging the paper. So, you can leave the paper in for 3 or 4 extra minutes and see some difference that might be an improvement.
Benzotriazole is a permanent addition to recirculating water boiler systems (as an anticorrosive) so I think it is quite a durable compound!Does anyone know what the reasonably expected Benzotriazole stock shelf life might be? I have some ancient Zone VI bottles here that are likely 25+ years on the shelf.
Benzotriazole is a permanent addition to recirculating water boiler systems (as an anticorrosive) so I think it is quite a durable compound!
PRJ... i didn't quite understand the last sentence. What connection are you making between Ansco/PF 130 and Edwal? Thank you.
The Edwal film developers (Edwal 10,12) use Glycin but since I don't use those anymore I stopped buying Glycin so I don't use 130 anymore either.
In what proportion have you added glycin to dektol?
Some years back, I started substituting 15ml of 1% Benzotriazole (in alcohol) for the bromide and with my gear and materials, I was getting nicer blacks. Discussions of this back then had me try it and found that I preferred the results. Ilford WT showed the most dramatic difference with velvety blacks.
I always mix just enough for the next session, and at that point, dilute it 1:3 for use. Dektol and 130 deliver different image tones. I gave up on Dektol decades ago. Benzo will cool either developer, at least at first glance. But if you want to use gold toner to cool the print afterwards, you actually want the more finely divided and hence warmer silver dev which KBr delivers. If you do want to experiment with Benz, use only 1/10 the gram wt as KBr.
AA sometimes did that.
I'd say that produces less contrast and a warmer print. That shouldn't be able to print 5 sheets of 8x10. I do believe that recipe is wrong.
My personal variation on this formula was as follows: omit the hydroquinone and the bromide, and reduce the sulfite to 35 grams per liter. Then add bromide only as needed to prevent fog. This was strickly a personal adjustement, but it gave a beautiful print color. If its contrast was found to be too low, I added as required the following hydroquinone solution (which does, however, cause a cooling of the image):
Water (52ºC): 750ml
Sodium sulfite (desic.): 25g
Hydroquinone: 10g
Water to make: 1 L
Here's what he says
Here's what he says in The Print (Appendix 1):
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