Mine gets brownish as soon as I put the glycin in.
My understanding is that it turns that color anyway once the diluted stock is in use.
(If a moderator could correct my "Anso" for "Ansco", that would be really appreciated...)
And it has been done
By the way, the best way to draw something like this request to our attention is to use the Report function.
And it has been done
By the way, the best way to draw something like this request to our attention is to use the Report function.
I did!
I'm glad you mentioned that! While I've been using Ansco 130 1+1 for years with my Kostiner tongs with no issues, in the past couple of months I've had random staining on the paper margins that I concluded must be from the rubber. Once I started using the tongs wrong-way-around, i.e. with the rubber touching only the back of the print, the stains are gone. This works because the Kostiner tongs only have rubber on one side.@chuckroast : I recommend you not use tongs with rubber tips with Ansco 130. The rubber will stain, and that stain will transfer to your print when taking them out of the developer. Had that unfortunate experience a couple of times. I now use Paterson print tongs with this developer.
Some years back, I started substituting 15ml of 1% Benzotriazole (in alcohol) for the bromide and with my gear and materials, I was getting nicer blacks. Discussions of this back then had me try it and found that I preferred the results. Ilford WT showed the most dramatic difference with velvety blacks.Following comments by @chuckroast and @GregY in another thread, I thought I'd be nice to start a thread solely devoted to this interesting developer.
Since I brew my own, I'll start by posting the formula:
View attachment 404383
Normal use is 1+1.
I haven't used 130 in quite a few years, but the dark brown sounds suspect to me. Could be the Glycin is older. It doesn't last long unless you freeze it. I used to use the Edwal developers quite a bit and they had Glyin in them so I would keep it around. One thing to note that as Glycin ages it can stain the paper. I used to get a nice subtle pinkish stain from it which I found really nice. Glycin gives images a bump in developing in the midtones. In a neg it brightens them, and of course in a print it darkens them making them richer. I don't use the Edwal developers anymore so I stopped using 130 and Glycin.
Some years back, I started substituting 15ml of 1% Benzotriazole (in alcohol) for the bromide and with my gear and materials, I was getting nicer blacks.
I have just made first prints with the (suspect) PF 130 1:1 @ 2min.
It seems fine. It is the color of tea, not coffee, and seems to work pretty much as expected with 3 different papers so far.
What I noticed thus far is that emergence seems slower than Dektol but it does seem to reach full black nicely in 2 min.
There is also evidence of better separation in the shadows. This might be my imagination because these are images I have never before printed.
More when/if I find more...
Per liter or ?? Of working strength or stock or ?? For 130 or ??
Some years back, I started substituting 15ml of 1% Benzotriazole (in alcohol) for the bromide and with my gear and materials, I was getting nicer blacks. Discussions of this back then had me try it and found that I preferred the results. Ilford WT showed the most dramatic difference with velvety blacks.
what the reasonably expected Benzotriazole stock shelf life might be?
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