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An often overlooked topic: Safety when repairing photography equipment

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Andreas Thaler

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As with many other activities, safety should be a priority when repairing cameras, lenses, and accessories.

Years ago, this was often the subject of jokes and mockery in online forums, but times have changed, and it’s worth giving it some thought.

My point isn't to exaggerate things, but to highlight where people should be more careful and decide for themselves how best to protect themselves.

Let me start by saying that there are riskier activities than getting photographic equipment back up and running.

Everyone should know the extent to which they protect themselves and assess the risks individually.

The following list is not exhaustive and is welcome to be expanded and discussed critically.



Here are my thoughts and experience on the matter:

Eye protection

SLRs and lenses almost always contain small springs that can store considerable force.

When working on devices, and especially when disassembling springs, you should wear safety glasses. Springs are unpredictable and can spring out, even if you’re careful. You don’t want that to hit your eye.

Safety glasses also keep out parts that you pry out with force and that can fly off unexpectedly.

Even when soldering, safety glasses protect against splattering solder and flux.

Tools can slip and hit your eye if you’re close by. Or you can grab your head with the tool in your hand.

I have personally experienced all of these situations, which is why I consistently wear polycarbonate safety goggles while working—they are also available to wear over prescription glasses.

Hand protection

Solvent, oil, and grease should not come into contact with your skin.

Wearing protective gloves also saves you the trouble of having to wash your hands frequently. Additionally, nitrile and latex gloves prevent you from leaving greasy fingerprints on your workpieces.

When soldering, they can provide temporary protection against burns. However, you should definitely check beforehand whether the heat resistance is sufficient. Based on my tests, nitrile and latex are flammable. Therefore, exercise caution also when working with open flames. I wear leather gloves over them or remove the thin gloves beforehand.

When working with rotary tools such as the Dremel, gloves can get caught in the rapidly spinning tool head. Exercise caution here as well. I follow the same procedure as when working with an open flame (see above).

Lead-based solder, as used in older cameras, should also not come into contact with the skin or be washed off. Gloves make this process more comfortable.

Respiratory protection

Solvent vapors and soldering fumes should not be inhaled. Ventilation is one precaution.

For longer tasks, such as cleaning lens helicoids with a lot of acetone, I wear a respirator mask. One single experience with excessive acetone in my lungs was enough for me.

Solvent vapors and soldering fumes can be neutralized using soldering fume extractors with carbon filters; manufacturers provide information on this. It should be clarified whether solvent vapors are also absorbed.

Metal dust and dried powdered battery electrolyte should also not be inhaled. A respirator mask with a fine-particle filter provides protection.

Hearing protection

Rotary tools with high RPMs are loud. This noise should not reach your ears.

Face protection

Also recommended when using rotary tools, in case the tool breaks and flies off. This can be worn over safety goggles.

High voltage and overloading of electronic components and conductors

High voltage is present, particularly in electronic flash units (including those built into cameras).

However, higher voltages than the operating voltage may also be present in SLRs (e.g., 4 AA batteries with a total voltage of just 6 volts).

Therefore, in particular electronic flash units should not be opened without knowledge of electronics.

In the event of a short circuit, very high currents can flow, overloading electronic components and wires. This poses a fire hazard.

Fire safety

Solvents and their vapors are highly flammable. Never forget this while working. It is therefore advisable to keep a fire extinguisher or fire blanket within reach.

Disposal

Electronic waste, used batteries, and chemical residues must be disposed of properly as hazardous waste.

Last but not least:

Take breaks and don’t eat at your desk.

I usually sit for far too long without taking a break, and when you’re no longer young, you feel it all the more ☺️

+++

⚠️ A word of caution

Please keep in mind that you’ll be using highly flammable solvents for service work, and their fumes are harmful to your health. Soldering also produces fumes that should not be inhaled. Dangerous high voltages can be present when handling electronics, especially in conjunction with electronic flash units and mains. Therefore, familiarize yourself with the safety regulations beforehand and ensure your safety. Depending on the activity, protective gear may be advisable.

All information provided without guarantee and use at your own risk.

Acknowledgments

Without the work of Master Larry Lyells, in particular, we wouldn’t have the detailed technical information we need today for service/repair of SLRs.

The SPT Journal and The Camera Craftsman, which he helped shape significantly as an author, and which contain all the necessary information and instructions are available for a fee through Learn Camera Repair.

We owe our access to them to Eugene Pate, the founder of Learn Camera Repair.
 
I would be interested in which respiratory mask with which filter you use when working with acetone. As far as I know, an AX filter would be sufficient, right?
 
At least you are prepared for any form of apocalypse 😂.

But this mask is comfortable to wear, even for long periods of time.

These magnifying glasses are wonderful. They have interchangeable lenses, and adjusting the focus is easy—just change the distance. I couldn't do without them.
 
I would be interested in which respiratory mask with which filter you use when working with acetone

If we take the lowest permissible safety limit from here, which is 250ppm or 590mg/m3 for a duration of 10 hours: https://www.osha.gov/chemicaldata/476
How often do you find yourself in a position where you'd potentially exceed this limit?
E.g. in my case, it would mean I'd have to vaporize 5-10g of acetone and ensure no ventilation occurs over more than a 10-hour period just to hit that limit. IDK about you guys, but I don't manage that even on the days I use acetone at all - which is once in a blue moon to begin with.

Other stuff may be a different story; e.g. I noticed a spray can of benzine on @Andreas Thaler's worktop in a photo somewhere. Now, that would concern me due to the likely presence of aromatic hydrocarbons. I'd rather not purchase that can in the first place (I'll leave it up to the car to guzzle it...).
 
Other stuff may be a different story; e.g. I noticed a spray can of benzine on @Andreas Thaler's worktop in a photo somewhere. Now, that would concern me due to the likely presence of aromatic hydrocarbons. I'd rather not purchase that can in the first place (I'll leave it up to the car to guzzle it...).

I only have lighter fluid in a small canister with a tiny opening and benzine in a bottle. Both are always kept sealed, and when I take some out for cleaning with soldering tips, I usually have the soldering fume extractor with an activated carbon filter running, which, according to the manufacturer’s specifications, also captures such vapors.

I consider filling up the car myself at the gas station to be many times more of a health hazard.
 
The energy stored in the spring is comparable to the explosive force of a landmine 😉😝

Nah, that's only kid's stuff. Ask the people that repair spring-driven mantel and grandfather clocks. They will show you real springs. The danger of letting down these mainsprings is known for a long time and widely discussed. Clock makers have a healthy respect for this kind of stuff.

The strongest spring I came across in a camera was in a Robot IIa where the spring is used as an mechanical "motor" for film advance. I was not that stupid to disassemble the spring unit 😨.

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