Likely more that the original developers left the project, and now they are just coasting along on fumes.Funny comment a while back: Why is it Vuescan and Silverfast never tied into DSLR scanned images? Clearly a lack of demand?
Just kidding. Didn't mean to offend, but clearly I have. My apologies and good wishes to you and your ventures.
FWIW, I wonder whether there is a relationship beyond the name of this software https://www.supershareware.com/info/simple-image-tools.html and the software you're writing / using? The link looks to be something from long ago (2013) and far away and would appear to have a different screen name for the author. But if I've followed the description there, the author is at least involved in a similar endeavor... though probably not at your level or with your focus in proprietary usage. For my part, I am at least as sleery of these things for the viruses they may have accumulated as long forgotten shareware files on unknown servers. You seem rightly to be in terms of seeking to carve out your niche and no more, and stick there. That's fine. Why not? Then again for my part I do use shareware like Quadtone Print in addition to ImagePrint - though the latter is commercial software and remains a tad pricey enough.
I'm sure your software is wonderful. Doesn't help me though. I develop and scan my own stuff. But as much as I may be late to the party, to my ear, the OP's inquiry wasn't answered per se - except in the negative... unless he writes his own.
Likely more that the original developers left the project, and now they are just coasting along on fumes.
There has been precious few improvements in the last few years.
A major overhaul would be too expensive and beyond the capabilities of the current people probably.
As an example, about ten years ago I scanned a couple of hundred rolls of 35mm color negative (dating from the 1990s) using a Nikon 5000ED with Vuescan. The Vuescan inversions were terrible, . . .
Nikonscan vs Vuescan ICEActually, the original reason I changed from Nikonscan to Vuescan wasn't do to with negatives, but rather because Vuescan performs much better IR cleaning of Kodachrome transparencies (and also gives a consistent, if idiosyncratic, interface for all my scanners).
What big difference do you mean specifically?Well, that looks pretty good! Is there usually such a big difference between the Nikon 5000 and 9000 scans (without ICE)?
Compared to the Coolscan 9000, the 5000 can exagerate the appearance of dust, scratches and grain. When scanning fine films (Ektars, Velvia and such), the difference in results is not apparent.On the set of Kodak 160VC scans under the heading "Coolscan 9000 + Nikonscan ICE is great": comparing left-hand-top, and and left-hand-bottom scans, scratches less visible with Coolscan 900 No ICE.
Hi,
It seems people is looking for a NLP alternative. I wrote a Photoshop app for myself to invert digital camera scans. where I should post about that?
Thanks,
ludwighagelstein, since you have both, I would be curious to hear your opinion about the relative merits and deficiencies of each.[...] That is coming from someone who gladly paid 80€ for Colorperfect and 100€ for NLP. These programs are worth their money. [...]
So workflow number 2 is starting to look more attractive to me. But before I make the effort to learn how to use ColorPerfect, can anyone tell me if there is anything significant - pro or con - I need to know about it first? Any fatal flaw or magic bullet?
I have used ColorPerfect for quite some time now. No fatal flaws to speak of, although the interface and workflow is frankly a bit poor and unintuitive, but once learned it is not hard to use.
I only use ColorPerfect to do the inversion and minimal adjustments; namely to make sure I am not clipping either highlights or shadows (the default preview settings always clip a bit in order to give a punchier result), and possibly a slight colour tweak if I detect any remaining trace cast (honestly though this is rare, and trivial to remove if present). If this process is done properly you will get a 16-bit TIFF which probably looks a little dull and lacking in contrast, but contains all the available data. I tend to then perform final tweaks in the Camera Raw plugin before final sharpening and dust removal.
I have briefly used a trial of NLP, and was never happy with the results.
About how big are your 16-bit TIFF files? Do you store your images as 16-bit TIFFs, or do you downsize them to 8-bit after all adjustments are done? Unless the files are huge, I would prefer to store the images as 16-bit TIFFs, but as I recall, some adjustments in Photoshop work poorly or not at all on 16-bit files (?)
Absolutely! I wouldn't think twice about paying double up for a standalone version. Or a version that hooks onto a free image editor.If there was a stand-alone version of NLP, I’d buy it in a heartbeat. I don’t use Photoshop or Lightroom.
There should be nothing about DSLRs that would make them, less well suited for colour "scanning" than line CCD based scanners. Apart from the bayerfilter, which is realtively easily circumvented or compensated for.I've spent probably 100 hours trying to make this work well over the last couple of decades. While i could on occasion get an okay inversion on some images nothing was reliable or consistent and I would classify nothing I did as comparable to our Creo, Fuji sp-3000 or even our Epson v-750. That was until Negative lab pro. It's the only software that comes close and in my opinion it's not worth the time or effort to use any other method...and no, I have no association with the people who make this software. Still though, DSLRs aren't really an optimal tool for other than with B&W negatives. They are fast though.
Me too. And I actually do use Lightroom. Its just that Lightroom is the wrong part of my workflow to want to do the scan-processing in. NLP is also a bit more annoying to use with a scanner that outputs TIFF (or TIFF-like) data, since it needs an extra processing step to get good results.Absolutely! I wouldn't think twice about paying double up for a standalone version. Or a version that hooks onto a free image editor.
DSLRs aren't really an optimal tool for other than with B&W negatives. They are fast though.
ludwighagelstein, since you have both, I would be curious to hear your opinion about the relative merits and deficiencies of each.
To the forum, at large:
When considering what software to use to convert negatives to positives, there are two goals - the acceptability of the results - and what changes to my workflow are needed to get there.
I own and use the Negative Lab Pro software, and it's OK in the results department. So far, I have processed only a few rolls of negative film which I copied with my digital camera. Color inversion results are not bad, but I'm finding the NLP controls are not sensitive enough when making fine adjustments to colors in the mid-tones, highlights and shadows. That is, if the slider starts at "0" (zero), and I increase it to "1" - that is too much correction. I need some way to make smaller adjustments. I have contacted the developer about this (Nate Johnson), and I have high hopes that future versions will correct this.
NLP is relatively new, and each update has added significant features and improvements. I was pretty excited about the metadata editor, which allows the user to add film camera data to your digitzed image file. This is a benefit if you want to seach your digitized image catalog to find images taken with a certain film camera or lens or shutter speed. However, I was less excited after actually using the metadata editor. It is rather tedious to imput the data (I am a terrible at the keyboard) - and then one must take a few extra steps to create a TIFF/JPEG version that includes the film camera data before exporting to a service like Flickr or SmugMug. I have a Lightroom plugin that can convert my edited RAW files to JPEG and export to SmugMug in one step, without needing to keep a JPEG version in Lightroom.
Which brings up the workflow issue. As someone who uses my Lightroom library to organize, catalog, keyword, and edit all my images, I see two very different possibilites for dealing with "scanned" negatives:
1. Import the raw dSLR image files into Lightroom, and make the inversions and corrections from within LR, or
2. Invert the RAW dSLR images with Photoshop, make some/most corrections in Photoshop, then import a TIFF version into my Lightroom catalog for keywords, captions and minor edits.
Obviously, NLP is designed for workflow #1, and ColorPerfect would probably be better for workflow #2 (I've not used ColorPerfect, so I don't really know anthing about it).
What I am trying to avoid is a workflow which results in several different versions of the same image in my Lightroom catalog. I definitely do not want to try to keep track of a RAW:NLP version and a TIFF or JPEG version in Lightroom. Unfortunately, NLP almost forces the user to do just that. As long as I can get to an acceptable image from the NLP interface, no problem. But as soon as I want to make a minor tweek to the NLP-converted file using the vastly more versatile and competent Lightroom controls, I enter a pushmi-pullyu, upside-down and opposite bizarro world. The only work-around is to create a TIFF version (or JPEG), and edit that, normally, with the Lightroom controls.
So workflow number 2 is starting to look more attractive to me. But before I make the effort to learn how to use ColorPerfect, can anyone tell me if there is anything significant - pro or con - I need to know about it first? Any fatal flaw or magic bullet?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?