Almost the First Time

[Xmas]

If I can't get sharp images at 250 at f8 with a 50mm lens I may as well quit. No tripod necessary.

Sorry my post was ambiguous to test the lens you will need panf+ and a tripod it is a clinical scalpel. You won't see the lens signature with a scanner and Tx.
Look at the MTFs.
The Tx is better than Trix but not as good as Tmax100 or Panf+.
If you shoot a panf+ cassette of a lens test chart you will need a microscope to look at the negatives...

 

[RalphLambrecht]

I remember my first developed roll of film back in 1978 and what a thrill it was to see the images on those negatives with my Peak 10x loupe. Today for the first time since about 1998 I developed my first roll in years and got that same feeling.

I had recently bought an M2 and two lens and half a dozen rolls of Tri-X. I had already ordered the chemistry needed from Freestyle and it was waiting to be used. I developed in HC-110, Dilution B, my old standby, and the negatives looked good. I'm awaiting the dry time before checking them out and scanning to see how they look. Ain't life good?

with ti x it is

 

[RalphLambrecht]

Well, during the process of scanning things went haywire. Nearly none of the images came out looking sharp. Even after I bumped up the focus Intensity and Radius they still weren't' sharp. I think I discovered where at least most of the problem is. This new Tri-X doesn't dry as flat as the old stuff did and curls so bad even after I used the ANR glass I bought from betterscanning, it wasn't heavy enough to push the strips flat. It curls up and you can't put the strips the usual way, emulsion side up as it's even worse.

I'm not quite sure what to do at this point. I thought the weight of the glass would make it flat but it doesn't. I'll never get any sharp images this way...I'll have to work on this. Meanwhile, I'll entertain any ideas.

I thought the unsharpness may have been from the camera in that there's a little vertical misalignment but I think the culprit is the negative curl.

...and it's not that you are someone not knowing what hey are doing.I hate negative scanning.I's the worst way to get an image in my opinion.I'd rather stay analog.Sorry for your troubles;been there myself with Tmax and that was flat

 

[ColColt]

Use the HC-110 with HP5+. It is a killer combination when used in the right way ! Examples here https://www.flickr.com/photos/25714267@N06/sets/72157646005579978

You're right. HP5 looks better than I remember and the tonal range seems better as well. I ordered some from B&H to try as it's been a long time since I've used it. The photos look excellent.

I never got too concerned if a given roll of film was a bit curly or not as I was printing back then and using a grain magnifier so, no problem. With this scanner it's a different ball game. They need to have a built in focus devise for when you run up on problem negatives such as the ones I have.

 

[MattKing]

You are drying the film too quickly, in conditions that don't have enough humidity.

 

[ColColt]

They're just hung up to air dry like I've always done. I measured the humidity and it's right at 45%

 

[Xmas]

Some films need 85-90 RH shower cubical... as earlier post.

 

[ColColt]

I guess I'm just thick between the ears. I'm drying the same type film(Tri-X) as I did in the same room I use to and getting a more curled strip of negatives. It makes little sense to me. Nevertheless, I'll try the shower route next time. If I'm gong to continue to use this film, and I'd like to, I need to find some way to flatten them for scanning purposes.

Someone needs to come up with a scanner that has a built in vacuum to keep negatives such as this flat.

 

[Xmas]

Tx is not Trix.
It is easy to up the humidity but you still might have problems.
If you want the same grain signature Kentmere 400 or HP5+ may still be to modern.
Scanning Trix is Nostalgia for the rest of us.

 

[ColColt]

I have some HP5 on order and will try it with HC-110...maybe ID-11 as well. I'm just looking for the same quality I got back in the 80's, like this shot with Tri-X and HC-110.

Donnie029a by David Fincher, on Flickr

 

[MattKing]

You will get better quality, once you adjust to the changes in the film.

Unless you liked the older grain.

 

[ColColt]

I liked the old film as it was. I wish they'd never changed it. I used about every more common developer with the old Tri-X from FG-7 and Rodinal to HC-110 and ID-11 Plus. They were all good. It's just like at the grocery store. Let me get use to something and start liking it and in three months it disappears....sort of like my ex-wives.

 

[MattKing]

I liked the old film as it was. I wish they'd never changed it. I used about every more common developer with the old Tri-X from FG-7 and Rodinal to HC-110 and ID-11 Plus. They were all good. It's just like at the grocery store. Let me get use to something and start liking it and in three months it disappears....sort of like my ex-wives.

Just in case you hadn't noticed, more than 1/3 of a century has passed since the 1980s.

I would hazard a guess that if you had continued to work with Tri-X over that 1/3 century, you would have appreciated its evolution.

I know that I really appreciate the improvements in the films over that time, even if I have switched to T-Max 400 for the high speed black and white photography.

 

[ColColt]

Yes, I know. I'm a Luddite, Matt, and don't like change when something works for me. From what I've seen with these scans it hasn't gotten better. I tried T-Max a time or two some years ago but didn't like it and went back to Tri-X and occasionally Agfapan 400(another good B&W film).

 

[Xmas]

No don't think you are like Ned.
What you have got is bad nostalgia.
Please don't mention APX400 there are others.
The 'Tx' and TMAX have both moved on.
As well as Kodak there is still Harman, Adox, Foma and Orwo.
Note you will need to buy the Orwo in 400 foot cans.
You may need a hood for the Planar.

 

[Ricardo Miranda]

Note you will need to buy the Orwo in 400 foot cans.

I believe ORWO distributor in the US sells 35mm film in 100ft cans.
And Wittner-Kinotechnik in Germany.

http://www.wittner-cinetec.com/katalog/04_filmm/kleinbild.php

http://www.orwona.com/orwo-n74-plus-400-asa-35mm-negative-b-w-film-on-100ft-core/

 

[miha]

Note you will need to buy the Orwo in 400 foot cans.

N74 Plus (ISO 400) is sold in 135 cassettes.

 

[Xmas]

N74 Plus (ISO 400) is sold in 135 cassettes.

So the OP has no excuses.
Not seen it in UK other than 400 foot B&H perf.

 

[miha]

So the OP has no excuses.
Not seen it in UK other than 400 foot B&H perf.

Available at Linhofstudio.

 

[Xmas]

Available at Linhofstudio.

Could not navigate their site but found via Google

http://ntphotoworks.com/shop/product/orwo-35mm-bw-trial-pack/

So 135 is available!

 

[miha]

Noel, it's available as Bergger BRF 400 Plus and Argenti Reporter ARF 400 Plus http://www.foto-r3.com/es/argenti-reporter-film-plus-400-arf-35mm-36-dx-new.html

 

[Xmas]

Noel, it's available as Bergger BRF 400 Plus and Argenti Reporter ARF 400 Plus http://www.foto-r3.com/es/argenti-reporter-film-plus-400-arf-35mm-36-dx-new.html

Hi Miha

Thanks two answers in one.

Noel

 

[ColColt]

As well as Kodak there is still Harman, Adox, Foma and Orwo.

I know I may be behind the times but, I've never heard of those. I've shot Pan-X, Plus-X, FP-4, Tri-X, Agfapan 100 and 400, and HP-5-that's been it.

I like things that are tried and true like my Marantz 2265 receiver, Nakamichi ZX7 tape deck and Pioneer R707 reel to reel tape deck.

 

[John Bragg]

I know I may be behind the times but, I've never heard of those. I've shot Pan-X, Plus-X, FP-4, Tri-X, Agfapan 100 and 400, and HP-5-that's been it.

I like things that are tried and true like my Marantz 2265 receiver, Nakamichi ZX7 tape deck and Pioneer R707 reel to reel tape deck.

FP4 and HP5 are made by Harman.

 

[ColColt]

They use to be made by Ilford...same name but a different company?