But I've found a guy who talked about adding some Benzyl Alcohol in the process (I don't know when) and a Ph adjustment (I don't know where)
all were based on Neville's Teaspoon mixtures
Can someone share these old newsletters? There is still nothing on the net.I found this out from an Old newsletter published by a chap named Dale Neville.
Yes, the Photocolor II instructions also specified 35C for Agfa paper, as opposed to 38C for all other papers. Development time was 4 minutes — without the additive. Fort other papers, with the additive it was 2 minutes at 38C.At a temperature of 35 degrees Celsius.
Yes, the Photocolor II instructions also specified 35C for Agfa paper, as opposed to 38C for all other papers. Development time was 4 minutes — without the additive. Fort other papers, with the additive it was 2 minutes at 38C.
Based on this, I would suggest that, as a starting point, you try developing the paper for 4 minutes in C41 developer at 35C.
That French man (OP), opened the discussion and asked his inquiries, then went to lie on the sofa and decided not to respond to the opinions and posts of colleagues who responded to his inquiries.
That French man does not respect the efforts of the people. He decided to deliberately ignore the sincere attempts of his colleagues in order to find an answer to his inquiries and then solve his problem.
What is this bullshit .
I searched and wasted time in order to get a useful answer. I did not find a response or respect from the (OP), so I decided to delete my posts from this thread because it does not respect the efforts of my colleagues and did not pay them any attention or respect.
Even if I had the final solutions to this demand and those queries, I would not participate in this thread or any similar thread that deliberately disrespects people's efforts.
You probably mean EP-2 (Ektaprint-2). E2 was a reversal film process similar to E4 now replaced by E6. Do you have the formulas for EP-2?
Yes, the Photocolor II instructions also specified 35C for Agfa paper, as opposed to 38C for all other papers. Development time was 4 minutes — without the additive. Fort other papers, with the additive it was 2 minutes at 38C.
Based on this, I would suggest that, as a starting point, you try developing the paper for 4 minutes in C41 developer at 35C.
Hi Mohmad,
I'm sorry for my attitude which may have seemed disrespectful but is absolutely not the case. After posting my message, I left for the weekend deep in the French countryside for a retreat disconnected from "civilization". I didn't have internet and so today I see your messages which I will carefully answer because they will help me a lot in my future attempts.
I'm sorry again if it seemed like a lack of respect, I think that nowadays we are connected enough to have the right to a disconnection from time to time.
So please accept my apologies and repost your message which I'm sure would help me a lot.
Water (30°C) | 850 mL |
Photo-Calgon (probably Sodium hexametaphosphate) | 2 g |
Hydroxylamine sulfate | 2g |
Sodium Sulfite, anhydrous | 2 g |
Potassium carbonate (I guess anhydrous) | 30 g |
Potassium bromide (I guess anhydrous) | 0.4 g |
Benzylalcohol/Diethyleneglycol* Mixture 1:1 | 30 mL |
6-Nitrobenzimidazole * HNO3 (nitrate), 0.3% solution in water, antifoggant | 7 mL |
CD3 (Colour Developer 3) | 4.4 g |
Water to make 1000 mL |
Process step | 33°C | 38°C |
Colour development | 3,0 min | 2,0 min |
Stopp bath | 30s | 30s |
Bleachfix | 1.5 min | 1.0 min |
Washing | 5 x 30s | 4 x 30s |
Water, 50°C | 300 mL |
Ammonium-Fe(III)-EDTA Solution, 50% | 230 mL |
Ammoniumthiosulfate, 60% | 345 mL |
Potassium metabisulfite (see comment below) | 26 g |
Water to 1000 mL, pH 6.5 |
It seems you are looking for process EP2, indeed. I found this finished auction on eBay. The packaging says Agfa Color Process 92 - EP-2 compatible:
Agfa Color Process 92 Foto Entwickler Set 1 L Kit Foto Entwicklung | eBay
Entdecken Sie Agfa Color Process 92 Foto Entwickler Set 1 L Kit Foto Entwicklung in der großen Auswahl bei eBay. Kostenlose Lieferung für viele Artikel!www.ebay.de
A few months ago I bought the photo recipe collection by the late Udo Raffay of CG Chemistry. It's originally from the 1980s and was sold out then. Since 1992 they are selling a computer printout. I was curious about it.
Anyway, it contains two suggested recipes. They are not the original Kodak recipes, but will probably work well enough. One is using CD4 colour developer, the other one CD3. My guess is that EP-2 originally used CD-3, not CD-4. So I would suggest to use this recipe:
[TABLE=collapse]
Water (30°C)
850 mL
Photo-Calgon (probably Sodium hexametaphosphate)
2 g
Hydroxylamine sulfate
2g
Sodium Sulfite, anhydrous
2 g
Potassium carbonate (I guess anhydrous)
30 g
Potassium bromide (I guess anhydrous)
0.4 g
Benzylalcohol/Diethyleneglycol* Mixture 1:1
30 mL
6-Nitrobenzimidazole * HNO3 (nitrate), 0.3% solution in water, antifoggant
7 mL
CD3 (Colour Developer 3)
4.4 g
Water to make 1000 mL
[/TABLE]
Further comments extracted from Raffay:
Adjust pH to 10.1 - 10.2. Use 10% sulfuric acid, or 10% NaOH (or KOH), respectively, to adjust. If you are making your own you can also play a little with pH to adjust gradation, if desired. Higher pH -> harder gradation.
Benzylalcohol aids colour brilliance. A higher amount of it also, supposedly, increases colour intensity somewhat. As does an increase in CD-3.
Diethyleneglycol (HO-CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-OH) helps dissolving Benzylalcohol and, according to Raffay, helps with more even development in colour and b/w processes.
If you make concentrates for dilution before use you should keep CD3 and also the Benzylalcohol/Diethyleneglycol mixture seperate and add before use.
Raffay suggests to use C41 Blix diluted 1:1 for the bleach fix stage.
[TABLE=collapse]
Process step
33°C
38°C
Colour development
3,0 min
2,0 min
Stopp bath
30s
30s
Bleachfix
1.5 min
1.0 min
Washing
5 x 30s
4 x 30s
[/TABLE]
My own thoughts:
I do RA4 printing and I wash RC paper, both colour and b/w for 2-3 min in running water in the wash slot of my slot processor.
I don't use anti calcium agents (Calgon) when I make up my own photo solutions, instead I use deionised water.
As a stopbath between dev and blix I strongly suggest to use TS-7 from the film developing cook book. 2% acetic acid works only when always used fresh. The neutralisation curve of weak acids makes them useless for much more than one-shot use.
TS-7 is a buffer, which also means high salt content, which helps keeping down swelling. I make mine from 60% acetic acid (110mL) and 23.5g NaOH in 1L water. That way I don't need to buy sodium acetate. It has higher activity than dilute acetic acid, and higher capacity and keeps pH for a long time. Also a much film/paper friendlier pH than fresh 2% acetic acid.
Raffays recipe for C41 blix. The one which he suggests to use 1:1 for EP-2. But if you can buy RA4 blix I guess that should work?
[TABLE=collapse]
Water, 50°C
300 mL
Ammonium-Fe(III)-EDTA Solution, 50%
230 mL
Ammoniumthiosulfate, 60%
345 mL
Potassium metabisulfite (see comment below)
26 g
Water to 1000 mL, pH 6.5
[/TABLE]
I'm not sure about the Potassium metabisulfite. As far as I know you don't want Potassium ions in fixer. Maybe Raffay wasn't aware. I'd use an equivalent of Sodium metabisulfite. It is acidic and brings the pH to 6.5.
If you require a source for (photo) chemicals, Foto Suvatlar (CG Chem) in Hamburg has all the special chemistry. I also bought Raffays 'book' there. After all Raffay worked there. Let me know if you want to contact them and need their contact or help.
Let's suggest a very cheap and respectable Blix formula, one that I personally use with movies.Raffays recipe for C41 blix. The one which he suggests to use 1:1 for EP-2. But if you can buy RA4 blix I guess that should work?
Thanks lantau for sharing the information and Mohmad for reposting.
Udo Raffay's developer formula is close to ECN-2 developer published by Ashley on her site:
but does not contain Benzyl Alcohol required to form the dyes. I am wondering if it could be added to water before mixing the rest of the developer chemistry. 15 ml should dissolve in 850 ml of water (theoretically) if not you will need a solvent (Diethyleneglycol in Udo Raffay's formular or maybe ethanol).Processing ECN-2 film, in ECN-2 process, at home — Grainy Vision
ECN-2 film, often known as movie film or cine film, and made widely available in the form of Cinestill branded film, is great for what it is, but using Cinestill film in C-41 always bugged me. The colors always seem a bit off, it comes off as overly grainy, and the lack of antihalation layer on Cinegrainy.vision
If you get ECN-2 as a kit you can try bleach/fix from the kit.
ECN-2 color developer has all main components required by the formula given by lantau (except Benzyl Alcohol). Depending on Ugo's situation, access to raw chemistry and lead-time for ordering chemistry it might be more practical to get a ECN-2 kit from a local supplier, get some benzyl alcohol (pretty common) and run a few quick tests before investing into replicating the full Agfa formula. I agree that it would be a temporary solution and not a substitution to using the proper process.what does ECN2 have to do with this discussion
It seems you are looking for process EP2, indeed. I found this finished auction on eBay. The packaging says Agfa Color Process 92 - EP-2 compatible:
ECN-2 color developer has all main components required by the formula given by lantau (except Benzyl Alcohol). Depending on Ugo's situation, access to raw chemistry and lead-time for ordering chemistry it might be more practical to get a ECN-2 kit from a local supplier, get some benzyl alcohol (pretty common) and run a few quick tests before investing into replicating the full Agfa formula. I agree that it would be a temporary solution and not a substitution to using the proper process.
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