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A "sharp" developer to use with rotary processing

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I expect to make some practice prints before getting the right overall exposure, but I don't expect to spend hours dodging and burning.

That's most likely the result of not having any formal education in photography, where usually, the first thing explained is that a good print usually takes at least 3-4 hours to make, and sometimes more.
 
That's most likely the result of not having any formal education in photography, where usually, the first thing explained is that a good print usually takes at least 3-4 hours to make, and sometimes more.

There's no camera shake.... It's a rangefinder on a tripod...
 
If the exposure is long enough for water to move, its long enough for a camera to move.
Rangefinders on tripods can shake too.

I shot this specifically for this thread, there's no camera shake....
 
That's most likely the result of not having any formal education in photography, where usually, the first thing explained is that a good print usually takes at least 3-4 hours to make, and sometimes more.

Formal education in photography is not always necessary, as there are many examples of great photographers who learnt through experience. You can make a good print at leisure, or pay someone to make it for you. However, if you don't have the shot in the first place, no printing skill will compensate for this. Stone just needs time to develop his technique.
 
a print can take as long or short as you want just like an exposure.
some people make endless spot meter readings, some just sunny 16 ,,
a print can be just a test strip or 2
and lights on
evaluate then the print ...

or it can be lots of contact prints
a proof print then burn dodge , map then final print

either way can be good
 

A great paper, I read it a couple of years ago.
 

I have to disagree here, unless you are working with SPT in a process lab, a good print takes hours to make. In BW often much longer then color.
There are empirical measures to what a good print is, and never forget that good and liked are not the same thing.
 
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There are empirical measures to what a good print is, and never forget that good and liked are not the same thing.
I don't doubt you on this, but I find this somewhat sad and so will simply admit that I'm more interested in making prints that I like than making prints that are good.
 
Where's the non-rotary "control" picture?

I've been non-rotarying long enough to know what a good shot looks like and was just testing ilfsol 3 as an option (since I had used it for the GAF before with superb results... Apparently the GAF just works, too bad it doesn't exist anymore.

Once I find something that seems to work I'll do a control to compare.
 


Who honestly gives a hoot about the empirical measure of a good print?
 
Enough. Too many reports on this thread.
 
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