Most likely a translation artifact. The different versions of the formula appear to be ballpark starting points that should be 'dialed in' to suit a particular type of film.
Most likely a translation artifact. The different versions of the formula appear to be ballpark starting points that should be 'dialed in' to suit a particular type of film.Can I ask what "styrax" is
I'm also curious what styrax is. According to search engines, it's a balsamic resin obtained from the cut trunks of trees of the Styrax genus.
But I can't be sure that Google Translate simply made a mistake in translating, or rather OCR reading, the Chinese characters.
Perhaps OP could dispel our doubts.
if we can assume that the "styrax" is a mistranslation and is irrelevant to the process then the whole thing looks just too good to be true
| Name | Chinese | Role in Color Developer |
| Styrax (benzoin resin extract) | 安息香树脂 | Coupler solvent, gelatin swelling aid, improves dye formation and reduces uneven development |
ChatGPT:
What is Styrax used in Chinese photographic color film developer?
ChatGPT said:
In Chinese technical literature on color-film processing, the word Styrax (安息香, benzoin resin) refers to a coupler-solvent / gelatin-swelling auxiliary that is added to color negative developer solutions.
Why it is used
Color film developers (e.g., C-41 type) must allow the color-forming couplers inside the emulsion to move and react evenly with the color developing agent (CD-3 or CD-4). To help this, the developer contains certain organic solvents or “development aids.”
Styrax in this context:
- Improves gelatin swelling, so the developer penetrates the emulsion more uniformly.
- Helps dissolve and mobilize dye-forming couplers, improving color formation.
- Reduces uneven development and improves color density and balance.
- Also has a mild anti-oxidation / preservative effect, extending developer life.
Important distinction
This is not the perfume-grade “styrax essential oil.”
In film chemistry, Styrax refers to benzoin resin extract containing benzyl benzoate and related aromatic esters, chosen for its solvent and stabilizing properties.
Summary
Name Chinese Role in Color Developer Styrax (benzoin resin extract) 安息香树脂 Coupler solvent, gelatin swelling aid, improves dye formation and reduces uneven development
| Name on Label | What It Is | Suitable? | Notes |
| Storax (Styrax benzoin / Gum Benzoin / 安息香 ān xī xiāng) | Resin used in perfume & incense | Yes | Most commonly used in Chinese developer formulas. |
| Liquidambar orientalis “Storax” | Similar aromatic resin | Yes | Also acceptable if listed as 自然苏合香. |
| Styrax “Benzoin Siam” or “Benzoin Sumatra” | Perfume-grade resin granules | Best choice | Generally pure and easy to dissolve in alcohol. |
| Source | Type | Link / Info |
| Etsy | Raw benzoin resin granules | Search “benzoin resin Siam” or “storax resin” |
| eBay | Benzoin resin or storax chunks | Many small-batch sellers |
| Perfumer Supply House / MakingCosmetics / Eden Botanicals | High-purity perfumery resin | Good if you want consistency |
| Alibaba / AliExpress | Direct from Chinese resin suppliers | Search: 安息香 原料 or 苏合香 树脂 |
I found a formula for a color monobath developer in a book, which claims to develop and fix color negative film in a single step at room temperature in just 2 minutes. I'm quite skeptical about this, but I currently don't have the means to test it. I'd like to hear everyone's thoughts on this formula.
Monobath Developer Formula
- Water: 750 mL
- CD-4: 4 g
- Anhydrous Sodium Sulfite: 10 g
- Anhydrous Sodium Sulfate: 60 g
- Potassium Bromide: 3 g
- Sodium Hydroxide: 52.5 g
- Sodium Thiosulfate: 25 g
- Add water to make a final volume of: 1000 mL
The book also includes a description of the principles behind this formula, but it seems there are some issues with it as well. However, since I'm not very familiar with color development, I can't pinpoint exactly where the errors lie.
The monobath development and fixation method proposed by the American 3M Company performs development and fixation simultaneously during color development. This process eliminates the bleaching step, leaves no silver residue, and produces satisfactory color images. The main components of the processing solution are color developing agents and fixing agents, and the solution is strongly alkaline (pH ≥ 13.2). Various types of color developing agents can be used in the monobath solution, but CD-3 or CD-4 are typically selected. The fixing agent usually chosen is sodium thiosulfate, but alternatives such as thiocyanate, mercaptosuccinic acid, and thioglycolic acid can also be used.
Excellent results can be achieved when using the monobath method to process various types of film.
The reason why the silver image does not affect the color image when using the monobath processing method is as follows: When silver halide is directly reduced and developed from its solid state, the resulting silver image has high covering power. However, when it is dissolved in the processing solution to form silver ions or silver complex ions, and then reduced and deposited on the latent image, the resulting silver image has low covering power. The monobath processing solution contains fixing agents that dissolve the silver halide particles. Even if the silver image increases proportionally with the dye image, the density of the silver image remains low, allowing light to pass through the silver image effectively. This ensures that the quality of the color image remains unaffected.
Are there any instructions regarding the temperature and time of development for the UDFFCPM developer?
Formula for a combined bath with styrax and styrax (Part 2)
...
Note: Use the second formula of the combined bath solution. Rinse for 2 minutes at room temperature, then wash with water and dry.
Formula for a combined bath with styrax and styrax (Part 3)
...
Note: When using this one-bath developer-stabilizer formula, rinse for 4 minutes at room temperature.
I found a formula for a color monobath developer in a book, which claims to develop and fix color negative film in a single step at room temperature in just 2 minutes. I'm quite skeptical about this, but I currently don't have the means to test it. I'd like to hear everyone's thoughts on this formula.
Monobath Developer Formula
- Water: 750 mL
- CD-4: 4 g
- Anhydrous Sodium Sulfite: 10 g
- Anhydrous Sodium Sulfate: 60 g
- Potassium Bromide: 3 g
- Sodium Hydroxide: 52.5 g
- Sodium Thiosulfate: 25 g
- Add water to make a final volume of: 1000 mL
"Monobath development times vary widely depending on the specific product and film type, with times typically ranging from 3 to 17 minutes for many common films. For example, CineStill DF96 can take 3-6 minutes at 70-80°F (21-27°C), while the development time for Kodak Tri-X is about 16 minutes at 70°F. Since monobaths are one-step solutions that combine developer and fixer, extending the time mainly affects fixing, but it's crucial to follow the manufacturer's instructions for the specific film being developed."
Are there any instructions regarding the temperature and time of development for the UDFFCPM developer?
2 min at room temperature seems rather short.
So this modification to the formula of @xiaruan might be considered as a start?
I tried the formula of example 1 in the Patent with 18.4g sodium hydroxide, developing for the specified 7m 23C. Film was a strip of 1yr out of date Ektar 100, EI=100.
The result was completely opaque negatives apparently covered in black silver. These were bleached for 5 min and fixed but remained opaque.
The sodium thiosulfate in the solution was increased from 19 to 125 grams per 800ml and a second strip developed 2min 22.5C. Again the negatives were opaque to my scanner but on bleaching and fixing a very thin image was visible. This was scanned with the setting for Ektar 100 with the result attached.
It does seem that the time of 2 mins at room temperature given in the book mentioned above is about right. It may be that the formula given in the book will give better results than the patent formula which necessitated addition of bleach and fix steps and appears to be not a satisfactory monobath.
The other patent from 1980 corrects some of the earlier ones. It specifically names Eastman Color Print Film type 7383 as appropriate for their formula. ECP films have specific characteristics, so trying something like Kodak 2383 may yield better results, but it's super slow. If you go that route, you'd also need to use filters since ECP film is intended for tungsten light. FPP Sun ISO 1 is daylight balanced copy film, so that may be better. For C-41, maybe Aerocolor IV (Kodak 2460) or Ilford Phoenix would be slightly better since they have a clear base? I actually like weird colors like your photo, so for creative photography I'd call this a win!I tried the formula of example 1 in the Patent with 18.4g sodium hydroxide, developing for the specified 7m 23C. Film was a strip of 1yr out of date Ektar 100, EI=100.
The problem is not so much in the color developing agent; it's in the fact that development is poorly controlled and no developed silver is removed from the negatives.Is it possible to achieve better results using CD3? CD3 development appears to be less affected by temperature.
It may be a little difficult to find this result very inspiring.
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?