8X10 film question?

[Donald Qualls]

Avoid “cheap alternatives” like xray and lith film because the tradeoff is about $100-200 vs. many hours of your own frustration.

Well, at least X-ray marked 8x10 is correct for 8x10 film holders. I have a box of 4x5 lith film that I got because a) it was really cheap and b) I recall getting useful images with lith as an intermediate when I was in high school (mid-1970s) -- but it's actually four inches wide, so won't fit in a film holder. And recutting a hundred sheets under dim red safelight isn't my idea of good use of my time, so I'll use them as internegatives, posterize with them, and so forth.

 

[GregY]

IMO the larger format you go, the more you reduce things. When I was using 8x10, I had less lenses, took less images....& contact printed them. For me...in doing so, I'd pick a film that is likely to be around long term. Buy up a good stock....& of the paper you like. (I used to have a big stash of Azo & Lodima). Having consistency in your materials makes the print outcomes more reliable.

 

[Donald Qualls]

Having consistency in your materials makes the print outcomes more reliable.

This applies to all formats, but it matters a lot more with larger film...

 

[abruzzi]

I stopped using Foma in 120 because of the curl. I still use it in sheet sizes though, but my issue there is occasional pinholes (in 100 at least.) That doesn't seem to happen if I skip the stop bath and just flush 5 times with water (and I was using EcoPro which is citric acid, followed by TF-4 fix. Has anyone else experienced that?

 

[GregY]

This applies to all formats, but it matters a lot more with larger film...

Come to think of it IMO it applies as much in other formats. 20"x24" Ilford fb warmtone is $25 cdn a sheet. Do you think i'll be processing it in previously used fixer ??

 

[DREW WILEY]

abruzzi - Foma films are among those with an emulsion quite sensitive to too strong a stop bath. Acetic acid is fine as long as you keep it highly diluted.

 

[John Wiegerink]

I stopped using Foma in 120 because of the curl. I still use it in sheet sizes though, but my issue there is occasional pinholes (in 100 at least.) That doesn't seem to happen if I skip the stop bath and just flush 5 times with water (and I was using EcoPro which is citric acid, followed by TF-4 fix. Has anyone else experienced that?

This last roll of Foma 200 120 I just recently bought and tried surprised me when it came to curl. I didn't presoak like I usually do when I develop with XT-3 Replenished since I developed it in ID-11 1+1 one shot. I also used no stop bath just several flushes with water and then straight to my homemade TF-2 fixer. I hung it vertical with a weighted clip on the bottom. When it was dry there was very little curl and only slight cupping. I could live with both and shouldn't be a problem for scanning or enlarging. It certainly had much less curl and cupping than my last several rolls of Foma 100 in 120 for sure.

 

[abruzzi]

This last roll of Foma 200 120 I just recently bought and tried surprised me when it came to curl. I didn't presoak like I usually do when I develop with XT-3 Replenished since I developed it in ID-11 1+1 one shot. I also used no stop bath just several flushes with water and then straight to my homemade TF-2 fixer. I hung it vertical with a weighted clip on the bottom. When it was dry there was very little curl and only slight cupping. I could live with both and shouldn't be a problem for scanning or enlarging. It certainly had much less curl and cupping than my last several rolls of Foma 100 in 120 for sure.

based on some discussion elsewhere on this board, it seems like the Foma 120 curl may be more environmental or process related. Someone else posted a recent photo showing Foma hanging straight down with no weight. Whereas I find it frustrating and difficult to sleeve the negative because it has so much curl. For now, in 120 my low budget films are the Kentmere, but I do want to experiment with Foma 200 (in sheets.)

 

[DREW WILEY]

Curl is a roll film topic. With sheet film, the cheaper films like Foma are more susceptible to scratching when handling or developing, and tend to have sharper corners more prone to cutting into adjacent sheets when shuffle tray processing; so you need to be especially careful. Kodak sheet film is by far the best in that respect.

 

[GregY]

Curl is a roll film topic. With sheet film, the cheaper films like Foma are more susceptible to scratching when handling or developing, and tend to have sharper corners more prone to cutting into adjacent sheets when shuffle tray processing; so you need to be especially careful.

Good point Drew.

 

[John Wiegerink]

Curl is a roll film topic. With sheet film, the cheaper films like Foma are more susceptible to scratching when handling or developing, and tend to have sharper corners more prone to cutting into adjacent sheets when shuffle tray processing; so you need to be especially careful. Kodak sheet film is by far the best in that respect.

That's why I do one sheet of 8X10 at a time.

 

[GregY]

That's why I do one sheet of 8X10 at a time.

Me too... also in any format when the image is unique, or special, or important to me