2nd hand Mamiya RB67 - what to check before buying- what are the risks/tips ??

Xmas · May 22, 2014

omaha said:
Camera Won't Cock:
- Remove lens, cock camera, cock shutter on lens, fire camera, fire lens, re-cock both, put lens back on.
- (If that doesn't work, then I have no idea what to do next)

On mine you can't remove the lens unless the camera is cocked, there is an interlock blocking rotation of the lens ring?

If the interlock failed you would fog a frame?

omaha · May 22, 2014

Only if the darkslide was not in place, in which case you wouldn't just fog it, you'd destroy it.

Kyle M. · May 22, 2014

Xmas said:
On mine you can't remove the lens unless the camera is cocked, there is an interlock blocking rotation of the lens ring?

If the interlock failed you would fog a frame?

If you could remove the lens without the lens or the body being cocked then the mirror would be up, and you would lose at least 1 frame. Unless the dark slide was in.

Xmas · May 22, 2014

omaha said:
I think every RB user must end up coming up with a "why isn't it working" checklist:

Camera Won't Fire:
- Darkslide out?
- Film advanced?
- Out of film?
- Back rotated correctly?

Camera Won't Cock:
- Remove lens, cock camera, cock shutter on lens, fire camera, fire lens, re-cock both, put lens back on.
- (If that doesn't work, then I have no idea what to do next)

I was aware of the loss of frame I was trying to query the suggested process, quoted above.

On my RB67 pro you can't remove the lens unless the body is cocked. So if the body won't cock the body and lens need to go to repair man... On a blad you might be able to remove the back and turn the interlock screw carefully.

omaha · May 22, 2014

I just checked, and mine (both of them, that is) are the same way. The locking ring stops a few degrees short of "open" if the body is not cocked.

Makes me wonder what happened a few months ago when it seemed like the camera locked up, and removing the lens and re-setting the lens and body cleared it up...

Xmas · May 23, 2014

omaha said:
I just checked, and mine (both of them, that is) are the same way. The locking ring stops a few degrees short of "open" if the body is not cocked.

Makes me wonder what happened a few months ago when it seemed like the camera locked up, and removing the lens and re-setting the lens and body cleared it up...

Thanks for confirming.

The answer to your wonder is the body (or lens) had jammed early in the sequence/cycle before the lens lock was set.

Id try the lens off the body for any errant symptoms...

Noel

TheToadMen · Mar 10, 2015

update: 127 mm lens

I found me a nice MAMIYA RB67 SEKOR-C 3,8/127 lens today in Germany and it is on its way to me.

I saw several very good images made with a RB67 and the 127 mm lens really stood out (to me). So it was on my watch list and now I found a decent one. The 65 mm lens will follow sometimes too, I guess. The 250 mm probably not. I'm not a "tele guy" so there is (to me) no gap between 180 mm and 360 mm. And there is a good chance I might even sell the 360 mm lens.

At the moment I'm having a rather bussy period at work: we're having elections on March 18th. After that I hope to get me some days off with good weather and go out shooting with the RB 67 (there was a url link here which no longer exists).

EdColorado · Mar 10, 2015

Nice lens Toadman, I'm sure your going to like it. I have a pretty full range of lenses for my RB and for most of what I do the 127 is as long as I get. I do though like the 140 C, its a wicked good lens but most of what I do tends toward wider angles. I don't remember the last time my 180, 250, or 360 were taken out of the cabinet.

2nd hand Mamiya RB67 - what to check before buying- what are the risks/tips ??

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