1950's Graflex Speed Graphic - what to look for?

Recent Classifieds

Forum statistics

Threads
200,638
Messages
2,811,352
Members
100,324
Latest member
ishelly404
Recent bookmarks
0

jay moussy

Member
Joined
Jun 10, 2019
Messages
1,315
Location
Eastern MA, USA
Format
Hybrid
There is a Speed Graphic I may be interested in, and I may be able to see in person.

What are the most likely areas to have worn or missing parts, or be a source of potential problems?
Has film cassettes, flash.
(TaIking about it, I already get weird looks from family members, a good sign..!)
 

Dennis-B

Subscriber
Joined
Jan 18, 2018
Messages
484
Location
Southeast Michigan
Format
35mm
  • Bellows leaks - Pin holes allow unwanted light, and the bellows could be dried out.
  • Lens shutter and iris - Shutter may have timing issues, iris may be sticky, or stuck
  • Focal plane shutter - May be inoperative, cloth may be damaged or falling apart; mechanism may be sticky or stuck
  • Rangefinder focusing - May be out of sync with ground glass focus.
  • Film holder leaks, etc. - May have leaks in the light seals.
  • Peeling leather cover - May have dry, cracked cover.
  • Opening/Closing - Camera body may have problems locking closed, difficulty in opening.

Just a few.
 

Ko.Fe.

Member
Joined
Apr 29, 2014
Messages
3,209
Location
MiltON.ONtario
Format
Digital
It has been some time ago. I can't remember it with exact words and details.
https://www.graflex.org/speed-graphic/FAQ.html
But if it has VF, it might have mask matching the lens. And if it has RF, it might have part matching lens.
And it might have battery operated RF color beams. All of it might be better to check. Because if part is missing, it is not easy to get.
 
OP
OP
jay moussy

jay moussy

Member
Joined
Jun 10, 2019
Messages
1,315
Location
Eastern MA, USA
Format
Hybrid
Thanks all.
It probably is a Pacemaker with the Graflok back.

'There are three of everything on these!
I will study the material, and report tomorrow!
 

Sirius Glass

Subscriber
Joined
Jan 18, 2007
Messages
50,623
Location
Southern California
Format
Multi Format
If you are going to use a Speed Graphic, it is important to learn to do shutter repairs and some repairs on them. I was given that advice by a retired Graphic and Graflex repairman who used to be on www.graphex.org before he sold me his best Pacemaker Speed Graphic and Graflex Model D out of his collection.
 

jim10219

Member
Joined
Jun 15, 2017
Messages
1,632
Location
Oklahoma
Format
4x5 Format
The Pacemakers are a lot less likely to have issues with the bellows. The Anniversary models made during the early had their bellows made from something that resembles asphalt on paper. And they didn't age well. Replacement bellows for the Pacemakers aren't too expensive, and they last a lot longer, so they're less likely to need replacing.

The focal plane shutter can usually be easily repaired. If it's slow, it's usually just dirty, or the spring needs to be tightened. That's an easy DIY project. Pin holes can be patched fairly easily.

Separated leather can be reglued with contact cement. Rangefinders can be adjusted, but the beamsplitter mirrors are hard to find replacements for, and they're very delicate and often degrade. If the tracking rail is damaged, it can be difficult to fix, but luckily, parts like this are available.

So, if it's not in perfect shape and the price is right, you still might be able to fix it yourself without too much trouble. Just look for any flaws, and if you see any, do some research on how hard and expensive the repairs would be. These are old cameras and many have seen heavy use followed by a long period of neglect. So it's not uncommon to have to do some maintenance on them. Luckily, they're also well built and designed, and with so many made, most parts aren't too hard to come by. Also there are a ton of online resources to help you with any repairs.
 

bdial

Subscriber
Joined
Jan 2, 2005
Messages
7,492
Location
North East U.S.
Format
Multi Format
Regarding the focus rails, it's not uncommon for people to try and fold the front with the rail extended a bit, that stresses the track in the body and sometimes you see it bent or bulging upward. This is located under the bellows in the body. When folding the front make sure the focus rail is retracted fully to the back of the camera so that the hinges are positioned correctly over the gap between the main body and the front bed.
 
OP
OP
jay moussy

jay moussy

Member
Joined
Jun 10, 2019
Messages
1,315
Location
Eastern MA, USA
Format
Hybrid
Great pointers.Still waiting to hook up with seller. A slow affair, it looks like.
I expect the camera to be in good shape, as it was used on a low-key military project.

In the meantime I am learning a great deal about MF/LF with the Simmons and Hicks books... and that brings me to:
- question my sanity
- get excited about this whole new environment, taking pictures with pen and paper and a checklist!
 

Paul Howell

Subscriber
Joined
Dec 23, 2004
Messages
9,956
Location
Scottsdale Az
Format
Multi Format
I expect the camera to be in good shape, as it was used on a low-key military project. Although common former military speeds if have markings or other signs, I have a speed that has the Northfork Navy yard overhaul sticker. I bought it at a Navy surplus auction in 1967, too bad I beat the hell out of it. Lost the rangefinder along the way, I doubt the focal plan shutter works.
Still great cameras, movements are really limited, but much more versatile in many ways over a view camera.
 
OP
OP
jay moussy

jay moussy

Member
Joined
Jun 10, 2019
Messages
1,315
Location
Eastern MA, USA
Format
Hybrid
Well, "Speed" is sitting in my living room, on loan from seller, as we could not figure out the front shutter. I demonstrated enough care and basic knowledge to inspire that kind of confidence!

I tried the two likely place to arm the shutter, but no go, so I need to hit the manual - as poster Sirius Glass indicated in post #6 above, they are prone to sticking.

Now curtain shutter works fine, superficially. There are little horizontal marks of rust, as it may have sat on a rusting roller or such. Need to figure out if it lightproof.

The "provenance" is interesting...
 

Sirius Glass

Subscriber
Joined
Jan 18, 2007
Messages
50,623
Location
Southern California
Format
Multi Format
Well, "Speed" is sitting in my living room, on loan from seller, as we could not figure out the front shutter. I demonstrated enough care and basic knowledge to inspire that kind of confidence!

I tried the two likely place to arm the shutter, but no go, so I need to hit the manual - as poster Sirius Glass indicated in post #6 above, they are prone to sticking.

Now curtain shutter works fine, superficially. There are little horizontal marks of rust, as it may have sat on a rusting roller or such. Need to figure out if it lightproof.

The "provenance" is interesting...

[From memory, no camera near me.] From the back, on the right side, like the switch from Back to Front. Then cock the shutter. Use the side trigger to fire the shutter.

And no, I said nothing about sticking. Be prepared to make your own focal plane shutter repairs or you will have to send it to Shutterfinger, he does great work.
 

shutterfinger

Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2013
Messages
5,020
Location
San Jose, Ca.
Format
4x5 Format
I was able to fix broken guide issue of my $99 Speed Graphic (and focal plne shutter) with the help of Jo Lommen:
His repair tactics is "get it going", especially the FPS.
Graflex.org has the best repair info. (factory service manuals)
Well, "Speed" is sitting in my living room, on loan from seller, as we could not figure out the front shutter
So tell me what shutter the lens is in IF one of these does not cover it.
http://www.cameraeccentric.com/html/info/graflex_11.html
http://www.cameraeccentric.com/html/info/graflex_12.html
 
OP
OP
jay moussy

jay moussy

Member
Joined
Jun 10, 2019
Messages
1,315
Location
Eastern MA, USA
Format
Hybrid
Update: I figured the cocking, release and focus levers, per manual, but the linkage between the the back shutter button and front needs tightening, that is, it moves but not by enough displacement to fully actuate shutter release.
This has not been actuated in many years.

To the type of shutter. all I can say is the cocking is at 2:30, release at 9, and focus lever at around 4.
@shutterfinger that all I can decipher for now..!
Very light shutter oiling, on account of extended dormant state? The manual seems to mention it.
 
Last edited:

shutterfinger

Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2013
Messages
5,020
Location
San Jose, Ca.
Format
4x5 Format
That Front / Rear / Trip has to be pushed in to go between Front and Rear.
The lens brand and focal length should be on a trim ring just outside the front element glass.
The shutter brand should be on the face of the shutter outside the lens front barrel (housing).
 
OP
OP
jay moussy

jay moussy

Member
Joined
Jun 10, 2019
Messages
1,315
Location
Eastern MA, USA
Format
Hybrid
Well, drats... there is some small amount of fungus in the 4th quadrant of the lens.

Deal killer?
 
OP
OP
jay moussy

jay moussy

Member
Joined
Jun 10, 2019
Messages
1,315
Location
Eastern MA, USA
Format
Hybrid
Package is Speed with 135 mm Graflex lens,very little signs of wear, large system grey case, flash units, big, and small reflectors, four bulbs, sync cable, four or five Grafmatic cassettes, vintage light meter (mercury?), shutter cable release, a nice letter from Graflex.
The package is almost more geared towards a collector, not a fresh LF dude like me, who is going to possibly mistreat the machine.
$220 asking, with the thing sitting in my living room for evaluation, no hidden mystery condition.

Fungus is, minimal, and seems to be on the front-facing part of the rear lens unit, which could be reachable?
 
Last edited:

bdial

Subscriber
Joined
Jan 2, 2005
Messages
7,492
Location
North East U.S.
Format
Multi Format
You should be able to unscrew the rear cell from the shutter. Hopefully the fungus is on the inside (accessible) surface.
 

shutterfinger

Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2013
Messages
5,020
Location
San Jose, Ca.
Format
4x5 Format
$220 asking,
A bargain, especially if those are Grafmatics with all 6 septums in each.

The Graphic Optar is a Wollensak Raptar rebadged. Its a common Tessar type lens, air spaced pair in the front, cemented pair in the rear. The fungus is killed by UV light.
Check the forms as there's several posts on fungus removal.
 

Paul Howell

Subscriber
Joined
Dec 23, 2004
Messages
9,956
Location
Scottsdale Az
Format
Multi Format
The rangefinder is matched to the cam, saying that I bought a Zeiss 135mm that worked with the cam on my Crown, so even you need to replace the lens you have a chance on finding a 135mm that will match your cam. $200 is a good deal for a complete set up. Remember the kit was designed and sold to working photographers, not large format dudes, press, commercial, wedding, event shooters who needed a rugged working camera that could get the job done. For a person just getting started in LF it's a great outfit. I have a well abused Speed, a Crown, and a view camera. 80% of the time I grab either the speed or crown.
 
Photrio.com contains affiliate links to products. We may receive a commission for purchases made through these links.
To read our full affiliate disclosure statement please click Here.

PHOTRIO PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Ilford ADOX Freestyle Photographic Stearman Press Weldon Color Lab Blue Moon Camera & Machine
Top Bottom