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See the other thread about using the lift for more consistent pouring.

What Brian said. You will quickly find that you will automatically use the reading range for this and similar tasks.

Do you have one of these? It helps make pouring more consistent. https://www.catlabs.info/product/new-style-lift

The final rinse has preservative in it and wetting agent does not. Photo Engineer, PE, a retired Kodak film and development engineer, had posted threads on this subject on Photrio.

I have not had that problem. Of course make sure that it is properly mixed. I invite others to jump in with recommendations and suggestions.

If your enlarger has a brighter setting, use it and the full open aperture, but I am sure you are already doing that. I too have had that problem with some tabular grain films.

Would that stop this issue? no, but it is a way to stop crossover. Do not use a wetting agent; use the rinse provided with the chemicals. Wetting agents can introduce other problems. If it persists, try extending the washing times.

Wash times? Have used Stop Bath after the color developer? It can help stop crossover, which of course this is not.

Hmmm ... I will drink to that.

Yes some like flat light. I did not say flat light is a desire killer, but it can get to be very boring after the same thing for months.

That works well for 35mm cameras that must be manually rewound, however some cameras power rewind into the spool automatically at the end of the roll and others rewind on comment. The problem the OP has is that the N70 does not have an option to rewind with the leader remaining out. Camera...

I practice with all new to me reels in the daylight multiple times before a load them in either in a darkroom or in a changing bag. Do not bother to ask me why. You already know the answer.

The flat overcast light that covers Washington DC much of the winter and Rochester New York can be a real photographic desire killer. Would it hurt to have a little contrasting light once in a while? By the way, the reason George Eastman chose Rochester New York as the Kodak headquarters is...

You are not the only one. I have tried it with and without an alcoholic beverage which produces not discernible improvement either way. It still a "ridiculous, absolutely useless" thread.

I have used the Color and Black a& White regime for decades. I rarely use the slow & fast pair.

Calling the thread "ridiculous, absolutely useless" gives it much too much status.

Just a factor of 104.

1 liter bottles do not work in sand?

The first time I thought that I had made a mistake, but it turned out that I was right all along.

The second mistake of my life. :mad:

Send a PM to Sean.

When in places such as Monument Valley, we are their guests in the Navajo Nation and as guests we are expected to follow some simple rules of basic courtesy: keep vehicles on established dirt or paved roads, that is do not widen the road or park on the land except were permitted. do not...

I understand, what I want to know is how good do those films perform at 3200 when developed as proscribed.

Thank you that is what I figured. The few times I shot Delta 3200 at 3200 my replenished development times were too short and I could not draw any useful conclusions. And then I did not need the use of a 3200 film for a long time. Time to get to work with both Delta 3200 and P3200.

I call it using the box speed and enhancing the shadow details to the level desired when deemed necessary or prudent. "Dear Prudent" was a Beatle song, right?

The second paragraph is my plan. Thank you.

I have the Nikon N70 so I checked the manual. There is no feature to rewind the roll and leave the film tongue remaining outside the cassette. That feature is available on other Nikon AF cameras, I believe. Since the OP has a definite need, as apposed to a nice to have wish, I recommend that...

Shooting Kodak P3200 and Delta 3200 at 3200 with occasional use of the Zone System and developing normally say in XTOL or replenished XTOL would produce better looking prints with some having enhanced shadow detail? Is that correct?

ISO is a film rating, not a digital rating. Merely an approximation since the standard is based entirely on film.

So if I shoot Delta 3200 at 3200, but use the Zone System for better shadow detail would then yield a 3200 film?