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feeling you on this one. i'm in the same boat right now, just on the west coast :)

hey bob, if you are in a hurry, use duggal, if you don't have a very quick turnaround, and might save some cash, try Samys805 (the samy's e6/c-41 dip-n-dunk lab in santa barbara, CA). they have VERY ECONOMICAL PRICES. check out the site and the pricelist: Dead Link Removed they do...

have you checked out the tri-community photo center? they have color and b/w darkrooms available. they're located in covina, just above the 10 freeway http://www.tri-communityphotoprogram.com/ they have a pretty nice set-up, albeit, the enlargers get used my numerous people, but for $160, you...

stopwatch for me, or my wristwatch, just start the time when you finish your pour for the developer. i just let the time run, and keep track of the times for things (fix=6-8 mins , depending on film), hypo, wash, etc. simple enuf for my simple brain. i personally think that if you're worried...

funny though , the Kodak box says that the paper is made in England, at least the last box I looked at a year or so ago. but I agree, keeping MY money in OUR country is very important to me. Sending it overseas doesn't improve our economy very much IMO :) The school is PCC (Pasadena City...

hey all, i gots me a simple question, which has a few parts to it. I'll be starting a color darkroom class at school in just a few weeks, and having had some previous experience doing color darkroom work with CA, I have been looking to pick up another box. I was at samys today, and thought...

I'm not sure about Long Island, but there is Duggal Labs in Manhattan, just across the bridge from Long Island. I've never used them, but I've never heard anything but GREAT things about them! Duggal Visual Solutions 29 West 23rd Street New York, NY 10010 T (212) 242-7000 | F (212)...

level the camera on all 3 axis', level the painting on all 3 axis', then measure the distance from the top right corner of the painting to the top right corner of the front standard (assuming you are using LF, 4X5 presumably). measure the distances from each of the corners, and they should be...

anything by dean collins. i'm not sure how many books he did, but he did a few video series, of which i have found good enough to grab myself a copy a year or so back. ANTHING by Dean Collins. he was the teacher that tought teachers on lighting. -dan

yes.. Dead Link Removed Dead Link Removed -dan

and frankly, the prints IMO look like crap, utter crap. even a poorly processed wet print looks better 75% of the time than these dry-process prints. and, IIRC, the longevity(archival quality) of the prints isn't that long, is it? -dan

but in this case, we're dealing with a negative situation :) -dan

to be totally honest, this looks really cool :). though i'm sure its not what you originally intended :) -dan

check here on the site Dead Link Removed

i shot some head and shoulder, really shallow DOF portraits of my immediate family members 6 months ago or so, and i had them sit across the bathtub (yes, legs sticking out the side, hanging over the edge). since the wall in that bathroom is white, i had them wear a white t-shirt, and them being...

this is not good news. the bad news bears must be in town :(

i find it interesting that so many people are quick to bash Kodak, but lately Fuji seems to be playing the "lets discontinue this, and this as well" game. just my $.02. TMY is a terrific film though, great choice! -dan

nice to know. there aren't many shops left that i have found all that reputable for in-house repairs. mike over at samys LA is terrific as well. thanks, i now have another contact for the camera repair section in my rolodex :) -dan

thanks guys, and gal :)! i have never heard of dilution H before now, but coming this monday at school, I'll have to give it a try. so, just to clear up the clutter in my mind on this issue, dilution H is 2x the dilution (1:14 from stock solution compared to B's 1:7 from stock solution)...

hey all, I've been running some basic film tests the last couple of days, and so far so good. I have decided to try out some 400 tri-x, in addition to TMX, TMY and Ilford HP5, to see which one i like the best. after looking at EK's pdf on Tri-X, the Kodak recommended time for tri-x at...

you might want to try this guy as well, he has a kit for the rb67 , but no rz listed http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/sealreplacement.html -dan

try this http://cgi.ebay.com/1MM-FOAM-CAMERA-LIGHT-SHIELD-SEAL-10-X-10-ADHESIVE_W0QQitemZ220440258883QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item3353436943&_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116...

try ektar, you might like it. it will most likely be too slow though for her use. otherwise, if you need a 800 speed film, try the portra 800, since 800z has been discontinued(thank you fuji :(), its the only professional 800 speed 35mm film on the market anymore. ohh... almost forgot, i was...

hey all, i was just taking a gander at the megaperls site (japan) to see what those guys over in japan get to try out that fuji doesn't release here. i noticed that fuji apparently has a pro 160nc color neg film available. i find it interesting that EK hasn't gone after them for product name...

do what ic-racer recommended, then use the remaining "good sheets" for contact sheets. its a much better solution that making that perfect print, then finding out that you have exposed edges. I have found that time is more expensive than paper. You can get more paper, but not the time back ;)...

why wouldn't you be able to use a dig!t@l back on a 500cm? the v-mount is a universal mount, so any 500 series, 200 or 2000 series camera can be used, AFAIK. i personally use mamiya, and i hate that i have to get an adapter plate for my rz67, but its alright. the 503cw just has the contacts...

no. i don't print at home, since i'm at school right now. i use either the school's darkroom, or a local adult education that has a pretty nice darkroom. i stay on them to keep the water filters changed, even though i'm part of a small group of people still shooting film there. try it, it might...

yes. i put the "fully washed" print, after ALL toning procedures are done, in a tray of distilled water, which acts as a final rinse. then i put the print on the racks to dry. so far, no calcium deposits whatsoever. -dan

actually, this one is better. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUlBueqStg4

watch this. its a very simple process, but in order to get it going right, it takes experience, and lots of knowledge http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0gEEaFT5z84 -dan