If there is a hobby shop near you, you might find the right size screw. Otherwise you might want to contact www.KEH.com and ask the repair department if they will sell the correct screw to you.
Developing ones own film is as easy as falling off a motor cycle. It is making the enlargements without an enlarger that is more challenging. That is where scanning and the use of a computer comes into play for many.
Use a bright light, such as an iPhone Flashlight app to locate the speck and remember it will be on the right side of the frame from the back or the left side of the frame from the front. Be sure to look not just at the edge of the frame but also into the open box and also near the lens mount...
This is thoroughly address by the plethora of the absence of discussion of to F3s and F4s. The OP will not accept a camera with LCD bleed. Instead the OP will look at a newer better copy or buy the F100 or F6 and get a LCD with signs of bleeding.
There are no practical 6x6 digital systems. First of all the cost to make sensors that large with a high enough yield per batch rate [all or virtual all the pixel must be fully functional], then the CCDs [or equivalent] must move the analog information digitally fast enough and accurately...
That just means that the so called photographer does not know the first thing about taking a photograph. Maybe with intensive remedial training the so called photographer might some day aspire to taking a snapshot.
I always though of them as handling like a slightly overgrown 35mm camera. Not in a bad way, as I think of my Hasselblad 503 CX with the PME prism as a slightly overgrown 35mm camera in handling. On the other hand I think of the RB67 as a truss buster.
Today the Jobo lift arm replacement came from CatLabs, after a fight about who was the boss, the replacement arm gave in and got into place and allowed me to attach the retaining screw. Thank you to those who referred me to CatLabs in another thread.
Similar to my putting a paper towel on the lowest corner of the film to draw off water. And it can draw off the excess quickly. Try it, you may like it.
When I joined APUG I became convinced to trade in the inherited Mamiya C330f with three lenses and every accessory in the known world for the Hasselblad, for one of many reasons that the prices were too good to ignore: bodies from $200US to $400US and most lenses from $400UD to $800US.
In over 60 years of using 35mm slr cameras I have never felt a the need to change the view finder. The cost versus benefit just does not pay off for most photographers, amateur or professional. In MF the there is a payoff for changing view finders because the stock view finder is a Waist Level...
Nah, since the OP will just end up with the best at the end, he should just start with a Hasselblad and slowly add to his array of lenses. That way he will not have to buying and selling cameras working his way up. Then when he get to the point that he is contemplating a FlexBody or an...
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