I suppose this webcam on Heimaey might show something if the clouds clear. I don't think it's pointing in quite the right direction right now though.
http://www.vestmannaeyjar.is/?p=100&id=2258&u=2258
But the bigger concern, jp498, is the mining and refinement of silver (and other metals), which have their own environmental concerns. Concluding that a bit of fixer going into the septic tank will not raise the risk for fish in the bay is technically correct, but it also completely ignores the...
I know they aren't all derived from organic chemistry, but that hardly matters. Organic chemistry is not necessarily any kinder to the environment. Methylmercury comes to mind, as an extreme case in point.
Is 'organic' kinder to the environment? Organic vegetables, sure... but not organic...
You can take a monopod *anywhere* It could be a simple cane with a 1/4-20 socket at one end. They also make very nice walking sticks.
Regarding tripods, the limitations in DC are often exaggerated. Once I put up a tripod in a place where I wasn't supposed to, and a very kind officer came...
Tripod schmipod. For daylight shooting on the go, using cameras up to an RB or RZ, I find that I can do very well with a monopod. On various occasions, I have shot around the mall in DC with a beanbag (there are plenty of places to put a camera).
P.P.S. Here it is, the software I was trying to remember...
http://www.lambdares.com/education/oslo_edu/
I think you can plug in your lens data and calculate the optimal tessar formula.
P.S. This might help as well...
http://www.lightmachinery.com/paraxial-ray-trace.php
....but you should be able to find a tessar specific calculator somewhere.
If you have the curvatures of the elements and their approximate indices of refraction, the optimal spacing can be computed. Otherwise you could simply do some systematic experiments...
Here are some simple calculators...
http://www-ferp.ucsd.edu/LASERLAB/TUTOR/lensdesign.shtml
Yes, no question about it. The larger net impact.
However, that does not absolve us of the responsibility to keep silver from going down the drain, or of disposing of chemicals properly.
The inkjet pigments are (as far as I know) now almost all synthetic, rather than mined like some of the old pigments used in painting. So there is some environmental impact, just from the chemical processes involved, but I expect that it's not as problematic as mining in general. The main...
The semiconductor industry is certainly not easy on the environment, and that's of course where digital cameras come from. In terms of environmentally damaging waste, computers and related equipment is a particular concern, when you consider the rate at which people "upgrade" their hardware...
The back that I have doesn't communicate the speed with the camera. So it doesn't make any difference what it's set to, it's just a reminder and you can ignore it.
In my opinion you will eventually want both. So if it cramps your wallet then just get the 2.8 and be happy.
The 1.9 is fun, but in terms of sharpness and contrast and neutrality, it is not in the same league as the newer 2.8 lenses. Also, there is some variability in the 1.9. Mine is...
Sure but you'd better research the Fuji 800z and find out whether it's going to be around much longer, if that is what you indeed plan to use (it is what I would use). Since the info is contradictory, I would be inclined to buy up a few hundred rolls, if this is going to be a long term...
If you look at how KEH arrives at a "BGN" rating, you'll be amazed how really minor things are overweighted. Just make up a fictional lens and run it through their rating system and you will see. Their rating system severely overweights things that play no role in the actual value of the lens...
Up to around 200mm is very useful for portraiture (better ears/nose ratio) and general scenic stuff, and I also use that field of view a good deal for landscape.
But lately I am packing the mamiya 645 pro system with me on travel, and I have a superb 200/2.8 apo lens for that and an adapter...
The F100 is *totally* different from most of the other choices mentioned. It is really more for faster action. As such, it is often called the "backup" for an F5 (or F6). It is the backup camera that became a respected primary camera. Totally different experience than an FE or FM or FM2N...
Graeme, that's a good kit, indeed. My standard 35mm film kit is only a bit different... it is an FM2N, a 24/2.8, a 50 (1.8 or 1.2 depending on light), and a 105/1.8. When I do carry a zoom, it is an 80-200/2.8. For my taste the 85 is too short for the prime kit- I prefer the 105.
IMHO the...
I absolutely agree; it cannot all be taught. However, it can be refined and developed.
This "zen" approach, marked by a lot of self discovery and reflection, is the whole reason why I bother to do photography. And the core of that approach is the idea that you cannot be taught in the sense...
I agree and I suppose there could be a prominent button somewhere near the APUG menu that says "New to Film?" with a direct link to a set of articles...
That is true and it is unfortunate. It would be nice assemble some sort of wiki on scan techniques, at least on the topic of scanning for presenting items in the gallery. (Especially since virtually all of the items in the gallery are scanned)
In your view, Tim, how could APUG be more welcoming to newcomers to film?
This bunker mentality of "shoot film or we won't speak to you" isn't welcoming, I realize that. However, discussing inkjet vs. optical or digital vs. film and all that simply excites all manner of silly emotional...
You might look at a mamiya 645 afd or 645 pro. Either will remind you of the rz in some ways, but they are way lighter. They also both take the older manual lenses, many of which are excellent and inexpensive.
You could take it in other directions, though. I think hybridphoto got off to a rocky start and people (like myself) who tried to contribute there really got tired of the same old questions over and over: which scanner should I buy? what's the best scanner? etc. If people who wish to explore...
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