I have gotten some very nice comments from TSA, actually. Quite a few of the older folks really take an interest in the gear and wonder why I use it, and I've gotten in quite a few conversations on the side. My usual practice is to ask upfront for a handcheck and to be as professional and...
Ted, the F5 was, according to some, the last great Nikon SLR. Their next offering certainly created a lot of buzz but not as much enthusiasm from F5 users as one might expect, for various reasons. I recall being at B&H and inquiring about prices of various models, about a year or so after the...
Frank, I understand what you did. It's not an issue of me looking down on what you did or on scanning in general, I assure you! But just to be clear, you did manipulate the tone curve.
Again, the issue I wished to assert is that scanners have a rather amazing Dmax-Dmin range, because they...
RE: levels adjustment... careful! You can easily convince yourself, incorrectly, that your negs are optimal when they are not. I can tell you that I have almost unprintable negs that still scan decently. For example, I have a set of negs that were overexposed by ~8+ stops... they are...
It was very nice to see such clear examples, clayne. It's nice (if not vital) to have an alternative to split grade. Not all of the papers that I like are available in multigrade form, and one also doesn't know how much longer the few we do have will be available. It is so important for us to...
Regarding modern landscape photography for sale, I cannot imagine making a (decent) living off non-commercial/magazine "art" landscape photography alone, not today. Short of working for Nat Geo, it must be almost impossible, as an independent photographer. The market is hypersaturated and the...
I use ortho for duping, mostly; ortho films (and paper) can be retouched quite easily. But if a scene has significant red in it (and most of mine do), ortho can give disappointing tonality. Sometimes it works well, sometimes it doesn't, you just have to develop an eye for when it will or won't...
Leah, I think if portability is the issue, you might consider a mamiya 6/6mf or 7/7ii. Yes the p67 is a very fine camera and less bulky too. But it is not without issues, so consider also the p645n and the other competing 645s. For street I think you will want fast lenses, f/2.8 or so, and...
There are (or were?) some ra4 papers for this, hyper seagull and ilford ilfospeed come to mind. IT's been a long while since i thought of doing this so I don't know what the status is of those. But I think they were designed for making b&w prints, with ra4 chems, using colour laser exposures.
Yep, John is right, tmax is a very good option. As far as I know, all of the pyros are very toxic, so... getting into one of the tabular/epitaxial-grained films like tmax might be a way to go. I don't mean to blow the issue of scan grain out of proportion though; with 5x7 negs, it isn't really...
For scanning, I'd strongly suggest trying a pyro developer, and something like wd2d+ gives you a lot of output flexibility including alt printing, silver printing, and scanning. The only drawback is the environmental toxicity of the developer, which I don't know how to neutralize. But on the...
Okay just checked, yes it slides under quite easily. You can also remove the GG entirely and use the graflok latches too. I recommend doing that if your shot might be screwed up by some slight repositioning of the camera. when you slide it under, it takes a bit of force and it can upset your...
Yes, the pa45 works fine with the standard crown, I use it that way, slid under the GG.
Wait! I am thinking of the fujiroid back, not the instant film back... let me check now....
For developing 35mm or 120 film, a darkroom definitely isn't necessary. A film changing bag will do fine for opening the canister, loading the film onto the dev'ing spool and putting it in the can. I have a large Harrison film changing tent that would do well. For 35mm developing, I suggest...
Welcome and yes, you'll find lots of good advice here. Go ahead and ask away. Sounds like you have everything you need.
It'd probably be helpful to find an apugger in your area to go through the dev process once or twice... but, of course, you should exercise full caution when making...
I'd say just get a 5x7 poco (or similar). I got one for something like $200 with a gorgeous convertible anastigmat lens.... sweet, super light, and fun to tell people that it's 100+ years old.
There is a class of macro lenses that I use for normal photography: process lenses. The apo-corrected process lenses, in particular. These are optimized for macro reproductions, but... I find them very useful for infrared because there is no focus shift. So I have a few apo nikkor process...
Many macro lenses are corrected for flatness of field at ~1:1 and may also have a floating element or be otherwise corrected to improve edge sharpness at close focus. Also these lenses are typically constructed to permit close focus even without extension tubes - not really an optical advantage...
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