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Same experience and the same question. The OP's 250mm lens may need to be realigned.

I do not worry about it. When the replenished XTOL expires, usually from non use, I mix a new batch and start replenishing from roll number 1 and after roll 5 I consider it replenished. I use the same development times from the first roll on.

In short, this agrees with my expericence with twist agitation: too little or too much causes development problems, what is in between works well.

I do not try to save C-41 chemicals. I save up to 16 rolls and develop them in two or three days, as fast as I can. My problem is that I do not like making prints of the whole roll and that times 16 is a lot. So now I send out smaller number of rolls for processing and printing more often.

I do not see any problem with the photograph. Maybe your standards are wrong. Send your standards in for a CLA and see if the world appears brighter.

I too have a Dual turntable that is set up for use now and my only turntable.

I prefer MF for landscape photography.

A wide lens with a 35mm camera is the best combination for speed and agility for street photography. Just the high percentage of street photographers use that combination prove the case.

As Matt said C-41 and E-6 processes were standardized for commercial processing and also avoid have the proliferation of many competing films and processes.

And back. Really, not fun.

Echoing JDoug, I have used tap water and various developers and never had the problem. With great reluctance to suggest, try tap water with a little surfactant such as PhotoFlo. If tap water causes a problem, try distilled water.

Make lots of sketches of different layouts, before your start. That can save a lot of aggravation later.

If you only shoot a few 250mm with a 2x or 1.4x extender, then go that way. Heck I certainly do not bring my 500mm lenses everywhere, in fact in its leather case it could even hold a door open when useful. So how much are you going to use a lens that is longer than 250mm? For me when I took...

Thus along with interchangeable backs and more I chose the Hasselblad with a healthy THA-WACK!!

First of all you need to make the room dark. Without that you will be stopped or limited. Given the large area, you can wait and do the ventilation later or just put a moveable electric fan or fans where needed for now. If you have the money air conditioning and heat will help lower the...

I have the Hasselblad 2EX extender along with the 30mm Fisheye, 38mm SWC, 50mm, 80mm, 100mm, 150mm, 250mm and 500mm, but not the 350mm lens. If one is going to get the tele extender, I recommend the 2x rather than the 1.4 unless one wants the 1.4 for the shift function. But I recommend one...

Yes for me but I am an Ilford-addict & Rollei-addict, but there are others: Fuji-addict Foma-addict Kentmore-addict ...

I use the WideLux F7 for color and black & white film. As stated in post #4 I send out color film. I develop the black & white film and print with an enlarger, but one could use a flat bed scanner and print from scans.

Monitor going off topic and rogue at the same time, in coordination, together, simultaneously, at once!

A shameful gratuitous bump at no charge to the OP.

Depending on the situation, a Red 25 will be a 3 f/stop reduction in light or a neutral density filter would be necessary. This is less of a problem if you were using medium format with interchangeable film backs [My favorite method].

. Welcome to APUG Photrio!!

Yes, but everyone is pushing their drug film of choice.

If I remember correctly a Hasselblad 1.4 teleconverter is about the cost of the 350mm CF lens.

I only owned the Rokkor lenses with two 'k's. Now I feel left out. 😟

I do not like it when people walk around in full body camouflage clothes. I can only see the hands, shoes and head floating around disconnected from any body. Really weird.

I have had five dogs is far, if I get another dog I think that I will name it "Such a good dog".

I could not put mine in one binder or box so some are horizontal and some are vertical.

That is similar to what the Jobo processor does.

Use a jack hammer or only use the smallest amount of the weakest type of Lok-Tite [purple?] or better yet have a real camera person work on you cameras. The last is my go to solution.