Search results

False economy, the rings and bearings were wear out sooner. One could accomplish the same result by pouring steel filings down the oil input tube.

Welcome to APUG Photrio!!

Welcome to APUG Photio!!

I use the N75 or F100 with a Tamron 28mm to 300mm AF zoom lens.

What if it was meant to be used with a light meter such as the Pentax Digital Spot Meter which uses '•' as third stops. Example: 5.6 • • 8

Bingo! Someone might use AI to fake a meal at a special restaurant that the Instagram user has never been to and will never go to.

Bingo!

I never needed to do that. In the dark I removed the film from the cassette, cut off the leader saving it for testing the developer then or in the future, trim the corners, put the sprocket holes on the prints, hold the film in a slightly curved shape and start loading the reel. I do that in a...

I always shot Ektachrome, Kodachrome, Dynachrome and Anscochrome with a Skylight 1A filter. They all needed it. If one does not use those filters, then they need to got to the bathroom, take a look in the mirror and look to culprit straight in the eyes.

That would depend on the type of insurance and the country, but probably not. @MattKing can expand on that.

So true.

In the darkroom or in a changing bag, close your eyes when loading film on to the reel. I really works for some reason.

Are you sure that the bellows is locked into place.

I use HP5+ as an alternative to Tri-X and find the two films behave close enough that I cannot tell the difference on a finished print.

Uncock or prematurely fire will describe it.

You will never regret the Jobo 3010 Expert Drum for developing 4"x5" sheets on a Jobo processor.

I will be there a year before it opens. Oh well.

Ignore the opinion of others, which one feels better in your hands. Both are good cameras.

YES!

Correct. I was referring to the initial start and World War II involvement.

I have not had wonderful results with any 3200 film. I usually shoot ISO 400 film.

I find the pins in the dark with my fingers. The first few thousand tens of times is not fun. Clipping the film corners first may help you.

Always from the camera out and then the reverse order.

Fort Hale [?] in Colorado. The headquarters for 10th Mountain training.

Possibly that the lens, bellows or body is out of synch. These might help: https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/6325347 https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/6325347 http://www.dmin-dmax.fr/photoe2b.htm

Do you have the 250mm lens? That would make the ISO 3200 film more useful. That film would lower the contrast, so keep that in mine. I would recommend using ISO 400 film and as it gets darker switch to the ISO 3200 film as the light diminishes.

My serious work is with MF. 35mm is for light traveling when I do not plan on spending time photographing and am more interested in eating, sightseeing and buying things I never needed OR when I need a 150mm to 1200mm zoom AF lens for wildlife.

One does not need to buy the motor drive or winder and a set of lenses all at once. Besides there would be no GAS in ones life.

And we trunk to that. 🍺

The 2000 and 200 series, not the V series.